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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 09:44 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by kodpkd
The only way I can see this happening, is if your MC has a so much rust inside the bore, that the seal catches on the rust ridge. If there is that much rust inside the bore maybe it should be replaced. OR if the MC has a small bolt inside the bore that stops the piston from moving to far, I haven't seen this in a C3 MC.
This issue happens on brand new units also. Hence the reason of the warning label on the brand new box.
What's happening here is, when bench bleeding, you are pushing the screwdriver / piston in farther than the MC is designed for. In other words there are no normal stops.
On the vehicle, there are stops to prevent over extending the piston. Its called the floorboard.

The brake pedal assembly is not only changing the amount of force delivered to the MC, but also changes the stroke length when compared to a MC in a bench vise.

The term: "you will damage the seals" over extending may not be the best statement. The "O" rings will roll-over in the bore on the return stroke with the screwdriver., making it useless. Can it be repaired? Sure. The piston is good, the bore is good. The "O" Ring? Not so good.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jun 14, 2021 at 09:50 AM.
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 01:23 PM
  #22  
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Here is the inside of the MC from my C3. It is the same as 2 other pistons from 2 other MC's. All I see is 5 lip seals. There are no O rings to turn over. The bore is perfectly smooth all the way to the end. You can see the rod on the end that limits the travel of the piston. Maybe there are different pistons that fail easier. Probably not as good.
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 07:54 PM
  #23  
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IDK.
I am going by what Lone Star told me.
And I am going by, my very first incorrectly done bench bleeding process: fail.

Meanwhile, I will continue to warn people about the possible damage done while bench bleeding if not careful.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jun 14, 2021 at 07:57 PM.
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 08:32 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by hdeyong
I went through the same situation not long ago. Without doubt, you have air in the system. It is extremely hard to get it all out. It took me quite a number of tries, even with a pressure bleeder.
I finally ended up with a so-so brake pedal which got me through an inspection for the title transfer.
But, the only way I found to get rid of all the air was to bleed the brakes backwards. I will post a description and a couple of pictures tomorrow. Everybody will think I'm crazy, but it worked.
Stay tuned.
I know it seems hopeless, it sure did to me, but you will get there, and believe me, it's worth it, I've never, in fifty years, had a car that was more fun to drive.
Looking forward to your bleeding advice. Although my pedal does not go to the floor, it could be better. I have replaced all calipers, the proportioning valve and the master cylinder. Now the booster is hissing and needs to be replaced. Pretty crazy how everything was leaking. I am surprised I was able to stop it at all when I bought it a few months ago.
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Old Jun 15, 2021 | 10:39 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
IDK.
I am going by what Lone Star told me.
And I am going by, my very first incorrectly done bench bleeding process: fail.

Meanwhile, I will continue to warn people about the possible damage done while bench bleeding if not careful.
What would help Corvette people here, would be to figure out why some MC's don't have a problem pushing the cylinder all the way in and others seem to have issues. There has to be differences.
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 08:45 AM
  #26  
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I've posted a new thread so as not to highjack this one. It's called "Crazy Backwards Bleeding Idea"
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