When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I suppose so if I needed to actually work on it. To just take a peak like I did splitting the interior pieces was sufficient. Thanks for all of your help.
My 77 is also an early build, and I had the same piece of insulation between the fuse block halves. I assumed it was intentional because mine was very neatly shaped to the outline of the fuse block. No idea why Chevy thought it necessary to dampen the unbearable noise coming from the fuses!
Is it possible Mr. Mouse did some nibbling on your wires near the fuse block? They love wires and it might be hidden from your view. Not easy to see much up under there.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Sometimes when the fuse lug is crimped on a wire the insulation gets in the way and results in a poor connection. Initially it still works but after a few decades of oxidation the circuit becomes intermittent. Crimp lug connection.
I do not know if this will help try some CRC Electrical contact cleaner on contact points, fuse holders etc. This liquid will evaporate quickly and clean some not all rust that i see and might prevent future rust on contact points . ( crimped wire ends) When you split the block just use the wand supplied to adresss contact areas and let it evaporate the spray ,it will not hurt the plastic blocks.
Just a little update. I have driven the car a few times since I split the fuse block and put it back together. Everything has worked so far. Maybe just removing and reinstalling the 30 amp breaker is what fixed it? If things go bad again I will post back.
Sometimes when the fuse lug is crimped on a wire the insulation gets in the way and results in a poor connection. Initially it still works but after a few decades of oxidation the circuit becomes intermittent. Crimp lug connection.
This looks normal to me. There are two parts to the crimp joint. One part is the bare copper wire, not seen in this picture, and the second part, seen in this picture, is the insulation. Crimping the insulation keeps the copper from breaking at the end of the crimp joint.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
I believe this is what is considered an open barrel terminal lug with only two areas that are part of the crimp...the one for the insulation and the one for the wire. Looking at the picture, only the middle one would pass inspection and the others could be suspect according to the inspection guide page below.
I believe this is what is considered an open barrel terminal lug with only two areas that are part of the crimp...the one for the insulation and the one for the wire. Looking at the picture, only the middle one would pass inspection and the others could be suspect according to the inspection guide page below.
My understanding on the photo above is they want to see NO insulation in the single crimp area.
You pound out 1000's of #10 or even #12 wire crimps a shift and see if all your crimps look perfect...
If the completed harness passed circuit tests and QC it was bagged and tagged and sent to assemble line...
