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A flex fan is that thing mounted to your water pump. it has "flexable" fan blades that are notorious for breaking loose and flying straight through fibreglass hoods. And other things. Not to mention they rob horse power.
Your car should be able to keep its cool with a proper mechanical fan, with fan clutch and the proper shroud.
OR, your car should be able to keep it's cool with a proper electric fan or fans. TONS of threads on here about over heading, Radiator's and fans. At the very top of this forum is a sticky thread about Aluminium radiator's and related topics. Can take a couple hours to read it all, but a good start.
Will start to read up onto that for sure! In regards to the flex fan, do I just not need to at all? I was under the impression I needed it for the water pump or the belts?
Originally Posted by derekderek
the blue fan, though a bad idea, SHOULD keep temp down at idle. even with the electric fan in front of it. where is home? and where you deploying? military?
Home is Kentucky, will be deploying to Africa for about a year, army.
Originally Posted by Bikespace
EDIT: I missed the photo last time. Thank for posting that! Please post more!
The black water pump makes me think you have a replacement engine.
Has a 383 stroker, as far as i know.
Originally Posted by Jebbysan
When you say it is overheating.....what temp is that exactly?
Jebby
Red line on the temp gauge, 260 i believe maybe higher not looking at it currently.
Here is what I come to when tracing the wires. They run to these and the alternator
post more pics.. you can upload a bunch.. and some pulled back to see front engine etc.. look for the wire that controls the fan on off , it should be one on the relay..follow it to a sensor
Last edited by interpon; Jun 21, 2021 at 05:48 PM.
^ that sensor is mounted either in the fins or the radiator or into the engine block. usually in one of the heads or the top of the intake manifold. although we wont be able to tell which temp sensor it is. we will be able to provide you with a link to the correct type replacement though.
hopefully that **** poor 12-14 awg poorly crimped red wire running directly from your alternators output is not whats powering this fan... Although Im fairly sure it is. Ive recently been told its a very bad idea to power fans directly from the alternators output post for a couple reasons.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jun 21, 2021 at 03:24 PM.
As I said earlier on. one or the other. proper mechanical fan with clutch and shroud. Or a proper electric fan set up. If your electric fan wasn't set up properly. then yes by the time you upgrade all the electrical's to run the fan or fans properly. it could very well be less expensive to get the mechanical fan working properly. Your fan shroud can be the deciding factor.
As I said earlier on. one or the other. proper mechanical fan with clutch and shroud. Or a proper electric fan set up. If your electric fan wasn't set up properly. then yes by the time you upgrade all the electrical's to run the fan or fans properly. it could very well be less expensive to get the mechanical fan working properly. Your fan shroud can be the deciding factor.
and looking closer..that fan is way too far from the shroud in edge to edge and maybe pulled back to allow the electric fan to fit which only blows across 1/3 of radiator.
I'm saying unless below 50f out im not driving it until fixed..
me ? i'm ripping out electric fan.. and at the LEAST fit the fan shroud better..
hard to speculate though on a fix cheap or not..without pics
Yeah so you have no real shroud and both those fans are working very inefficiently.. If it were me I'd ditch the mechanical mess and get a better electric shroud fan combo. looks like you already have an upgraded alternator, at least an 80 amp which will do fine in most cases. I have the same rad as you and I use one of these fans with great results. https://www.ebay.com/itm/27187068412...8AAMXQ~6VQ7kxV I used these brackets, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dwr-sp002
and there are multiple wiring kits you can get for them. you ideally want to power the relays from the starter and run a heavy 6awg wire from the alt to that starter lug. powering the fans directly from the alt stud can damage the alternator so im told.
and either your car was in a front end collision or someone did a number crushing the radiator mount for some reason. and this is a 4 speed? or do you have a different trans cooler somewhere? Because I see you have the model radiator for the automatic trans with the trans cooler but nothing is connected? They make a version specifically for a manual with no trans cooler.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jun 22, 2021 at 04:00 PM.
Yeah so you have no real shroud and both those fans are working very inefficiently.. If it were me I'd ditch the mechanical mess and get a better electric shroud fan combo. looks like you already have an upgraded alternator, at least an 80 amp which will do fine in most cases. I have the same rad as you and I use one of these fans with great results. https://www.ebay.com/itm/27187068412...8AAMXQ~6VQ7kxV I used these brackets, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dwr-sp002
and there are multiple wiring kits you can get for them. you ideally want to power the relays from the starter and run a heavy 6awg wire from the alt to that starter lug. powering the fans directly from the alt stud can damage the alternator so im told.
and either your car was in a front end collision or someone did a number crushing the radiator mount for some reason. and this is a 4 speed? or do you have a different trans cooler somewhere? Because I see you have the model radiator for the automatic trans with the trans cooler but nothing is connected? They make a version specifically for a manual with no trans cooler.
That "shroud" is more of a splash shield for when the flex-fan detonates.
You have no AC compressor, so no need for an aux trigger for an electric fan solution. Check the rating of that alternator (3-wire, good!), and go with a single or dual electric fan solution. Use a known temp-range switch in your intake manifold to trigger it (in my photo below, the switch in my intake grounds two separate relays for the dual fans, but you can stagger two switches if you prefer, which is less load for the electrical system).
Here's the extra space you could end up with without the flex-fan and "shroud".
our young man is by his own admission fiscally challenged at present. i feel the best thing he can do is find a real fan shroud. but they usually run 150 bucks on up. the clutch fan is also not inexpensive. here is what your fan is supposed to look like.
i climbed under my 75 to see if it was feasable to do a bubbalicious lower half of the shroud. thinking tie-wraps and plastic sheet like a piece cut out of a front bumper or something, don't think it is doable. not without drilling holes in the crossmember and rad support. so i think for the moment he is stuck with making that electric fan run. i would do some hot-wiring and see if i could get it to run full time and see if it sounds like it has any power or is barely spinning. then figure out a temperature sensor switch or a temporary switch, madison tn. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...e-51adfae00b6f this is what you really need. that hot rod blue crap fan will do the job at dle. maybe even better than the correct fan. but it wastes so much power and sounds like an airplane and likes to throw those fan blades at high rpms.
Last edited by derekderek; Jun 22, 2021 at 09:27 PM.
Yeah so you have no real shroud and both those fans are working very inefficiently.. If it were me I'd ditch the mechanical mess and get a better electric shroud fan combo. looks like you already have an upgraded alternator, at least an 80 amp which will do fine in most cases. I have the same rad as you and I use one of these fans with great results. https://www.ebay.com/itm/27187068412...8AAMXQ~6VQ7kxV I used these brackets, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dwr-sp002
and there are multiple wiring kits you can get for them. you ideally want to power the relays from the starter and run a heavy 6awg wire from the alt to that starter lug. powering the fans directly from the alt stud can damage the alternator so im told.
and either your car was in a front end collision or someone did a number crushing the radiator mount for some reason. and this is a 4 speed? or do you have a different trans cooler somewhere? Because I see you have the model radiator for the automatic trans with the trans cooler but nothing is connected? They make a version specifically for a manual with no trans cooler.
I have a 100 amp alternator, so the power draw should not be an issue. I believe i will be ditching the mechanical flex fan mess since its not even set up properly and going to get set up with the proper electric fan set-up. She's a 3 speed auto th350. I believe it has a separate cooler somewhere else.
Originally Posted by Bikespace
That "shroud" is more of a splash shield for when the flex-fan detonates.
You have no AC compressor, so no need for an aux trigger for an electric fan solution. Check the rating of that alternator (3-wire, good!), and go with a single or dual electric fan solution. Use a known temp-range switch in your intake manifold to trigger it (in my photo below, the switch in my intake grounds two separate relays for the dual fans, but you can stagger two switches if you prefer, which is less load for the electrical system).
Here's the extra space you could end up with without the flex-fan and "shroud".
Definitely going to ditch the flex fan setup as it's not even set up properly. It is rated for a 1 or 3 wire so I did something good there hopefully. So going to get this one running and then get on my way as to ordering the proper dual electric fan set up. Also what is an aux trigger?
Going to try hooking the fan up to a constant source bypassing the sensor for now and have it constantly on until I get it sorted. Will update on progress if it works.
I have a 100 amp alternator, so the power draw should not be an issue. I believe i will be ditching the mechanical flex fan mess since its not even set up properly and going to get set up with the proper electric fan set-up. She's a 3 speed auto th350. I believe it has a separate cooler somewhere else.
Definitely going to ditch the flex fan setup as it's not even set up properly. It is rated for a 1 or 3 wire so I did something good there hopefully. So going to get this one running and then get on my way as to ordering the proper dual electric fan set up. Also what is an aux trigger?
Good news on the alternator! You should be able to run whatever you want. I picked up a dual-Spal fan assembly, second-hand but never installed, at Carlisle. Each fan runs at about 13 Amps, and they only turn on at idle at a stoplight. Whether one (brushless?) fan, or two, you want to make sure that the shroud completely covers the radiator. Some shrouds have flaps to let air through at speed, but suck close when the electric fan is running, ensuring that as much air as possible goes through the radiator. You can also help yourself by making sure the foam surrounds are intact and in place, to prevent air from flowing around the radiator instead of through it.
If you search for posts by @Richard454, he has some circuit diagrams you can follow. He also clued me into the MRBF fuses and Eaton/BlueSea fuse holders, which I've since used in several cars.
Many cars, and many C3 owners when they put in an electric fan, run an extra trigger off of the AC clutch, such that the electric fans run when the AC is on. This was the AUX switch I mentioned. You don't have to worry about that complication, and not having an AC condensor will mean better air flow through your radiator.
You should be able to trace the coolant lines from your transmission, though. I'm surprised they don't go into your radiator. Did a PO add a separate cooler? If they are simply plugged, your transmission may not like that.
Good news on the alternator! You should be able to run whatever you want. I picked up a dual-Spal fan assembly, second-hand but never installed, at Carlisle. Each fan runs at about 13 Amps, and they only turn on at idle at a stoplight. Whether one (brushless?) fan, or two, you want to make sure that the shroud completely covers the radiator. Some shrouds have flaps to let air through at speed, but suck close when the electric fan is running, ensuring that as much air as possible goes through the radiator. You can also help yourself by making sure the foam surrounds are intact and in place, to prevent air from flowing around the radiator instead of through it.
If you search for posts by @Richard454, he has some circuit diagrams you can follow. He also clued me into the MRBF fuses and Eaton/BlueSea fuse holders, which I've since used in several cars.
Many cars, and many C3 owners when they put in an electric fan, run an extra trigger off of the AC clutch, such that the electric fans run when the AC is on. This was the AUX switch I mentioned. You don't have to worry about that complication, and not having an AC condensor will mean better air flow through your radiator.
You should be able to trace the coolant lines from your transmission, though. I'm surprised they don't go into your radiator. Did a PO add a separate cooler? If they are simply plugged, your transmission may not like that.
Glad i did something right there. Will check on those posts as well, any information is good information! Oh okay, thanks for the clarification! And will definitely have trace and find out.
