Well I knew this would finally happen. My '77 82 4 speed has a rear tire that is leaning way too far inward. I am planning to jack up the rear and pull off the rims so I can get a better look. About 6 months ago I knew there was movement in and out but was hoping I could nurse it for another year. I have been through this rear syspension rebuid before with a '74 and it always ends up to be a major pain in the ***. I would rather put in the blood sweat and tears than give it to a shop that hopefully does everthing correctly. I live in the houston TX area and can swap out the trailing arms for rebuilt units buy a shop that has a good reputation.
I am pretty sure I will be cutting off the bolts to the TA's with my Sawsall but it is what it is. This car has the gymkahana syspension so I plan to scrap the 7 leaf for a 330 or 360 composite spring.

1. who really makes the best rear composite spring?
2. I am planning to replace the old monroe shocks with Bilstien Sports. Put the heavy duty Bilstiens on the front 2 months ago and wow what a difference.
3. Of course all of the u joints will have to be replaced with non greasable units. is it necessary to balance the half shafts and drive shaft.
4. Original strut rods will be scrapped for adjustables with heim joints
5. I am running a 370 Posi and it's a real pain when the tach is reading 35-4000 rpms on a long haul. Any suggestions. My first gear winds up to quickly so i was thinking 336 0r 355
6. Do I supply the side yokes for the diff overhaul if so where do I get the premium brands. Lots of junk out there.Carbon Fiber clutch pact or stay with original?
7. is it necessary to add the differential crossmember reinforcing kit.
8. There is other stuff that I will have to buy but I think I have covered the major items

 

Check the end play in the stub axles. Not uncommon for these to experience tip wear due to improper factory heat treating. This could be the major factor in your tire lean.

Avoid the fiber clutches. Read GTR1999’s and other posts on how to rebuild the differential. Describing how to do this correctly would take a very long post.

You won’t see that much difference between the 3:70 and the 3:55. If you are most concerned about cruising RPMs, then a 3:36 or even a 3:08 is best. Consider dropping in a TKO. The overdrive takes care of the cruising RPMs while allowing the retention of the 3:70s.

No need to rebalance the shafts after joint replacement.

Mark Williams sells a 31 spline yoke kit but it is spendy - $2100. Duntov sells a HD 17 spline version for $384 each.

Unless you are planning on drag racing, I wouldn’t bother with the reinforcing kit.

 

Fiber spring is unobtanium right now , I’ve been waiting since October

 

Try Ridetech for the arms and the composite spring. Everyone else was in delay with the springs. They were the only ones at that time that had in stock. They have suspension parts for any of the things you are looking for. I agree with the transmission upgrade. I just put a TKX 5 speed in with the stock 355 and huge difference in 5 th gear.

 

I would balance the driveshaft only. The half shafts turn at a lower speed and do not need balancing. Also, I would use the HD Bilstein shocks in the rear as well. The sport shocks may be too firm. Before you take out your Sawsall, soak the area daily for a week with Aeroil or or Liquid Wrench. The bolts and sleeves may free up. If you go the saw route, use only carbide blades. Jerry

 

I have the TRW 340 spring in mine. They are available and do not change the ride height. A Hilti demolition reciprocating saw blade will cut those trailing arm bolts in less than 5 minutes.

 

This is the best time to put 5spd into it, , I'm running TKO 500 w/3:70 rear, = perfect combo of extra low 1-2 gears, AND overdrive,

 

Since you have been down this road before you have an idea on what it takes, now add in shortage of some parts, over-advertising of others, availability of experienced labor if you sub it out, and you might be going down a deeper rabbit hole than last time.

When I hold a seminar on rebuilding Diff's and IRS parts I recommend you list out what you want and why you think you need it and then be honest with yourself on how you intend to use the car.

A lot of what you list sounds like you can do at home. Which you will then know what was done. That is the best course of action if possible.

With the diff you have options but you should really do some homework. There is a huge difference in the level of builds out there. A guy drove over recently for me to check the ebay rebuild diff he paid a lot of money for. I was brutally honest with what I saw and recommended he not use it. As mentioned the fiber clutches wouldn't be what I would ever use unless they were the only type left available and with todays parts supply changing who knows.

Your camber is most likely caused from worn axles, common for original 70-79's. You have to be careful the axle hasn't crashed into the housing or you will be getting into replacing the diff.

If you want 31's then Toms are what I would use over anyone else's. They are strong and I know the spec's on them since I proofed them. If you have under 450hp and are not drag racing you don't really need 31's unless you want to be done. Some other companies out there have been going after Tom's business by offering various upgraded versions of his parts and diff builds. I suspect most here do not know what they are looking at when they see custom parts or differentials offered. I have seen some of these posted here over the years with corners clearly cut inside that the owners had no clue about and only when by the builders explanation- which should be 100% truthful but clearly wasn't if you know what you are looking at.

As an aside, my son just got back from Libertys Gears his TKO600 that was face plated and built with their best options and is thinking of selling it since his build has gone in a new direction. If you are interested let me know and I can find out what his plans are for it. It's 2.87/.064

As L88 mentioned there is more to this then opening a web site or catalog but many get duped everyday. You are doing the right thing asking first.

 

A stock 77 L82 / 4 speed car shouldn't need anything more than a stock OEM type rebuild. You already stated you would have to cut the T/A mount bolts so I'm assuming you are looking at doing most of this yourself. Rebuilding the T/As is not that big of a deal if you have the proper tools, same for the rear-end but I have always out sourced that.

 

Is the TKO600 available to anyone?

 

Yep, you can purchase them from various suppliers,, ,, No one is left out,, ,, LOL ,,😂

 

Thanks to all who replyed to my post. I will have to move my 4 wheeler out of the garage for needed room so I can get started. Thaks again for the much needed advice.