Has anyone ever used one of these AN fuel filters? I've pretty much decided to get a 100 micron pre and 10 micron post pump. However, as many of you know, there can be some difficulty with placement of additional accessories being put into the engine compartment. I currently have my engine out so I can't fully gauge how well it would fit in the first place. My most important question is has anyone ever used the the fuel filters without using a stability bracket? Can't it just be suspending in-line like the barb fitting fuel filters? If it is needed, how long could I get away with suspending it in line? I have an idea to have someone customize a bracket that can screw into the head bolts, it will hold the filter in place about 2 1/2 inches just above the heater core manifold fitting.

I've also considered threading the filter directly to the pump, but like I wouldn't be able to test fit this theory as my engine is not placed yet. these are the products I've decided to go with unless someone here feels the need to sway me to go with a different product instead, I have it sitting in my online amazon cart and haven't ordered it yet.

Fitting for fuel filter that doesn't come with fittings AN10 male to AN6 male

The fuel filter that does not come with the fittings. It does cost more than Evil Energy, however, Evil Energy does not make a fuel filter that is 10 micros, their smallest filter size is 30 microns.

100 micron fuel filter comes from Evil Energy

The Brackets in question.

 

If these filters and small and light, it should be fine. But, my aircraft maintenance background always forces me to be very particular about security, vibration and chafing issues. Most aircraft lines, are carefully secured as to prevent vibration, fatigue and rubbing / chafing issues. When I put an inline filter, similar to your suggestion, in my car, I secured it to the cylinder head. I would recommend some way of preventing too much vibration. The other important point is that whatever you do, its important to regularly inspect under the hood for any potential issues. Preventive maintenance is what keeps cars (and airplanes) going without issues..

 

Hmm... Are there any AN pre and post filters, (100 and 10 microns) that are small in-line filters? I've been looking since the beginning of this adventure, to avoid any alterations, but couldn't find any.

 

An awful lot of unknowns here sir. What engine? Fuel injection?? guessing it must be if your looking at a 10 micron filter. I have my pre filter in the tank. As well as my pump. my 10 micron filter is in the right quarter panel just behind the number 4 body mount. No where near the engine bay. Yes it is mounted. You talk of mounting a bracket to the head bolts? How? no valve covers?
What EFI system are you running? Are you running a Carb? If so what's wrong with the filter in the carb?
More information could help us help you.

 

The new engine, 383 stroker, carbureted, is going into an 81' and the transmission is being replaced with a 200-4R. I had my engine built somewhere in PA and the intake manifold they used exposes the head threaded holes as the intake used different screws it looks like, I'm not sure, the furthest I've taken apart the engine is removing the headers, distributor and the carb, so I could remove it from the bay to put in the new engine. Ill take a picture of it real quick.

 

No need to go filter crazy. If you are still using carb and mechanical fuel pump, there is a sock (filter) on the pickup in the fuel tank. So not only is there already a filter ahead of the pump, and additional filter ahead of the pump is unnecessary....hundreds of thousands of cars ran for hundreds of thousands of miles without one. A small filter, like the 30 micron Earls filter I have, AFTER the fuel pump is about one inch in diameter, three inches long. Its light, cleanable, and easy to plumb in and secure. They come in different fitting sizes, etc. If you are doing fuel injection,.....you will have to get information from someone else.

 

 

Yeah....GM really did us all a favor plumbing that heater fitting right there. A 45 or 90 degree fitting for the heater hose can be a solution. Or, you have to get the fuel plumbing to take a different angle with fittings. Frustrating.

 

Wow, thanks! I guess I'll just use this one then. You saved me like 100 bucks lol. I'm looking on jegs and all they have is a blue 35 micron with the part number that you pictured but I'm sure it will be fine.

Also, that heater core fitting is about 2 to 3 inches below that fuel line. but now that I don't need to put a bracket there it will work out just right.

 

I put that picture of the Earls filter off Summit website.....make sure you get the right fitting size. I think the picture has a -8, which is half inch. I use 3/8 fitting sizes, which is -6 AN fitting. They make multiple sizes....I just want to make sure you buy the right size.....not based on my picture. I think they even make them with a female fitting on one end.......check out the Holley / Earls website or Summit Racing and search for all the options that may work best for you.

 

Yeah I made sure to get the 6AN one, I already ordered it from JEGS. It stated that it will ship today too

 

I have my 6-AN 40 micron filter attached at the inlet of the carb fuel line. No need for a bracket. The Team G intake allows the use of a 90* fitting for the heater hose to go forward and around the fuel line.

 

Don't get too hung up on 10 vs 30 micron. 30 microns is .001....or half the thickness of a human hair. If you have a sock on the tank......it is highly unlikely you will ever have anything smaller than .001 come through, and if you did.....it would pass right by the needle and right through the booster like nothing was there....

Jebby

 

Yup, 10 micron filters are for fuel injection.

 

I'm pretty hung up on 10 vs 30 micron. I had a 30 micron filter on my eagle and look at what got through to the carb after a couple of months:





So I just put in a 2 micron filter for a Caterpillar diesel. Hopefully it does the job for me:

 

That's quite the fuel filter ya got there! Should do it!
Although all that rust dust in your carb points to other issues.

 

like a rusty fuel tank?

 

The tank is rusty, unfortunately I cannot get a new one.

 

Really? well then, acid etch it and coat the inside with POR 15 Gas tank sealer.

 

have one like flyboy posted. hardline from pump to carb no bracket needed its rigid