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A couple of members here have posted their longer stud installs.....The Money Pit and someone else.....can't remember. Anyway, I am pulling the trailing arms and bearing/hubs and now is the time to do this.
What do you have and what did you use for studs? Pics?
I have the Tom's outers 17 splines with 1/2 inch longer studs.
17 because I'm using the big stockish type half shafts. Also 17 spline super yokes that are bulletproof.
there has been a discussion way in the past about strength differences between 17 and 31 splines. It's like discussing a fine threaded grade 8 bolt to a lesser threaded bolt and it really comes down to the psi strength of the metal. Like 220,000 psi ARP studs. If they are the same tensile strength hardened metal there's a mechanical advantage to more splines, but the ultimate shear strength is roughly the same
1/2 inch studs were rule required and I have Center Line wheels that use Acorn tapered lug nuts
I have 1/2" diameter, 3" long ARP studs. Had to open up the holes a little, I selected studs with a small spline to make life easier.
True..you have to be careful about getting the splines with the correct "thickness per spline" or else it will be a battle to drive the stud into place.
And IF O.P. is reusing his hubs he can buy "extra-long" studs (rather than having to search for correct-length studs)...
cut the length to suit his needs...
hand-grind the angle onto the starting thread before installing them.
Last edited by doorgunner; Jul 14, 2021 at 07:36 PM.
ARP wheel studs, as mentioned, Summit has them. 1/2-20 x 3" I use them all the time and they work the best. They are shown the picture above but one detail in the picture is missing.
The knurl was slightly larger than the stock stud knurl, made for a really tight fit, so I enlarged the hole in the hub with a 15/32 (0.46875) drill. I made a jig to keep the drill bit perfectly aligned.
The knurl was slightly larger than the stock stud knurl, made for a really tight fit, so I enlarged the hole in the hub with a 15/32 (0.46875) drill. I made a jig to keep the drill bit perfectly aligned.
I looked at this Part# but nobody on planet Earth has them......
Still looking at available options......maybe another ARP number.....or another brand.
Looks like I can use these Moroso studs.....just have to make sure the back of the rotor is countersunk (easy on the Bridgeport).....
They are .480 as opposed to the stock .475...are 8740 material, and have the bullet nose on them.....cool.
A word of caution. For looks I went with extended lug nuts with finished ends. Maybe 3" or so. You can't quite tell from this angle. Anyway, turned out they just bottomed out before seating the wheel. I really thought the wheel had seated, but it hadn't. I bought 1/8" spacers which did the trick.
Looks like I can use these Moroso studs.....just have to make sure the back of the rotor is countersunk (easy on the Bridgeport).....
They are .480 as opposed to the stock .475...are 8740 material, and have the bullet nose on them.....cool.
I use a 1/2" spacer with the ARP studs (ARP does not have that warning). Does Moroso know something that we should know, or are they just covering their back side.
I use a 1/2" spacer with the ARP studs (ARP does not have that warning). Does Moroso know something that we should know, or are they just covering their back side.
They are 100% covering their ***…..it’s an 8740 bolt with a knurl flange…what would be the reason not too….I mean, to a point?
I had Gary install the ARP 1/2" studs in my Tom's axles.
I didn't want the long lug nuts so Gary cut them down so a standard length lug nut will work.
They came out really nice.
These are the studs to use. What advantage do you have staying with 7/16 studs?
All I was looking for was more thread engagement.......I am never going to launch hard enough to need a 1/2" stud.....plus I would have to drill the hub to 5/8" and possibly the wheel and it is tapered seat. I am going to scratch buying Tom's hubs too.....I simply am not making that kind of power and need to keep my self in check as I am already down the rabbit hole of changing ****.....
I need longer studs, that's it.....the Moroso ones are stronger than what is on the car currently. This car might run high 11's on slicks......
All I was looking for was more thread engagement.......I am never going to launch hard enough to need a 1/2" stud.....plus I would have to drill the hub to 5/8" and possibly the wheel and it is tapered seat. I am going to scratch buying Tom's hubs too.....I simply am not making that kind of power and need to keep my self in check as I am already down the rabbit hole of changing ****.....
I need longer studs, that's it.....the Moroso ones are stronger than what is on the car currently. This car might run high 11's on slicks......
Jebby
I hear you.
Yes the axle flange will have to be drilled to accept the ARP 1/2 bolts, the rotor holes too. The rabbit hole is deep with old vettes as you know. Moroso has good parts no question, we use some of Rick's parts and they are good quality.
So if you are in the11's with slicks, what is the diff like? If it's stock it will last awhile but you might want to check the posi case and prep it to make last longer.
The knurl was slightly larger than the stock stud knurl, made for a really tight fit, so I enlarged the hole in the hub with a 15/32 (0.46875) drill. I made a jig to keep the drill bit perfectly aligned.
I’m thinking about putting longer studs for my build. Will these work with any c3 rear hub?
Last edited by Bluesting70; Jul 25, 2021 at 05:09 PM.
Longer rear wheel studs
