I have a 68 427 400 that the tripowers are being removed and am installing a 70/454 intake with a holley dbl pumper that Lars just rebuilt for me. Keeping all the fuel lines with the tripower. I need a new fuel line from the fuel pump to carb. The catalogs all list a 3pc fuel line for an LS6 set up but I only need the one line. What have you all using that are running holleys on your 427s? Pictures are appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim

 

I have a 1968 that started life as an L71 and when I got it there was a quadrajet on an cast iron intake manifold. One day before a trip I saw a small puddle under the passengers side. It was gasoline coming from a Pin-Hole in the fuel line. I wrapped it in rubber and put a clamp over it. Later on I ran a Number -8 AN line from the tank to the fuel pump and it worked great as long as it is secured and has a PTFE liner to keep it from eating the rubber. You can call Summit and get pre-assembled length's of the S.S. Braided -AN Hose. The -8 is close to 3/8th" fuel line, just be sure to get the PTFE type hose so the Ethanol doesn't make any trouble for you!

Not knowing if you have made AN lines and connectors I am hesitant as getting the connections right is critical. I made a set that supplied the Fuel easily and kept up with my need for fuel up front.

Recently I installed a Holley Stealth Sniper on the 427 and it is beautiful. The best part is that Holley makes new Fuel Tank Modules with internal regulators so you can make your tank work fine for Fuel Injection. It took 20 minutes to install the new pump and Hydra Mat. It supplies 58 psi to the fuel injection system and is so nice with no return lines on it.

 

I'm going to attempt to fab a steel line with a bender and flaring tool. Doesn't look easy. I'd like to know what intake and air cleaner assembly you used with your sniper? is it under a stock hood ?

Thanks

 

I have an original 1968 Factory L88 Hood and wedding cake assembly. I bought it at Corvettes@Carlisle many years ago from the original owner of an L88 used exclusively for racing. I saw the paperwork for the purchase of the L88 and the pictures of the L88 they came off of. The factory hood was removed to allow the use of a newer style Intake back in 1968 and then the car was destroyed in a roll over accident. The gentleman who sold me the hood mailed me the rest of the parts after I was home. It is a beautiful piece of history and it really helps make more power. I had it painted Daytona Yellow like the rest of my Corvette. If you go to Carlisle then you might have seen it. Speed Vision did a snippet about my Corvette as they were convinced it was a real L88. They taped the interview and my Corvette when I clearly told them that it is NOT an L88, look Ma, No Snowflakes....

It is the best way to get cold intake air into my high compression 12.25-1 Compression ratio. The air entering my combustion process is close to ambient and not pre-heated like so many cars. Using the Higher Compression I needed to use every trick I could to help this engine run normally. Cooling is the biggest problem for me with my engine as it has a bad habit of running hot. And this is with a BeCool Aluminum Radiator with the DeRale PWM Electric Fan Controller.

When I ran the flexible lines thru the frame members and along a safe path everything looked great and worked great. I was able to get the lines protected by following the frame members along the side. There are lots of ways to run your own lines but it would be easier to use Pre-bent lines

Steel lines are not that hard to make but with Today's gasoline you might want to reconsider using steel, something unaffected by the ethanol would be more desirable in my humble opinion. This is why I used the PTFE lined SS braided lines as it is designed for use with ethanol. I am currently making a set of -4 AN Lines to carry my Water/Methanol for the injection system it uses. I used the -4 SS braided PTFE lines from the output of the pump up to the intake manifold, some folks think it is a nitrous oxide system when they see the lines feeding into the intake below the EFI unit. I use the water/Methanol to keep detonation under control under adverse conditions. I do not have a detonation problem with this engine and never have. I am aware that in the hotter months it helps a lot where the rest of the year I don't need it at all. It is a backup system and is controlled by the Sniper Software made by Holley. The best part of the water/methanol injection system is it makes the fuel equivalent to 116 Octane which old Corvettes really like, especially high compression versions of the old days

The Sniper EFI systems come in two configurations, the regular Sniper and the Sniper Stealth which "looks" like a Holley Carburetor. The standard Sniper is not shaped the same. 99% of those who look into my engine compartment would assume it had a carburetor on the engine. The L88 "Wedding Cake" assembly sits on the carburetor and seals the top to the hood as the hood is closed. The only part that is visible is my Fuel pressure Gauge which is exposed and shows 60 psi when running. The reason I chose to use the Sniper Stealth is because it also fits where the carburetor should be, everything lines up like it has a carburetor.

Have you checked with Classic Tube (upstate N.Y.) about a set of brake lines with all the bends pre-done so they are easier to install. My C4 had a brake line rust through so I bought a whole set for my C4 for ~$200. They come in either steel or Stainless Steel and have the ends done for you professionally. It is the easier way to run new lines, and since you have the correct motor Corvette I would replace the brake lines that look like the original factory lines. With the lines being Pre-bent they unfolded from the box and then went on the Corvette fairly easily as I replaced one line at a time. I have used Classic for my C3 and my C4. Why a newer Corvette uses more parts than my C3 I will never understand. I replaced the fuel supply and return lines on the C4 with parts from Classic Tube.

The one nice thing is turning the key when cold outside the engine roars to life just like the newer cars do. I am anxious what kind of mileage I will get with EFI system. For decades I have been using custom built Holley Double Pumper Carburetors made by AED in Richmond, VA.

 

I used the LS6 line when I swapped over. Flaring and bending are easy with GOOD tools.

 

So you had to modify the LS6 line a little bit?

 

I cut the line to splice in a filter and return but from pump to carb is should bolt right in.

 

Beautiful Engine there ddawson!

 

Regular steel line would be my first choice. But, Nickel-Copper (NiCu) line is much easier to work with, but is still impervious to ethanol; and it is approved for use with fuel, brake and hydraulic lines. The color is not the same as steel...more like a dulled copper color. But those are your [better] choices, IMO.

P.S. Stainless is very hard and much more difficult to bend. It looks great--if you have the professional equipment it takes to do it right. You can always get a high-polish on regular steel and clear-coat it to stay "purty".

 

Well I've discovered I suck at trying to bend all the different close angles on my fuel line. Going to look in to braided lines. Anyone have anything negative about that? Hopefully the ethanol isn't an issue..

 

Braided is certainly better than ONLY rubber. But the insides are still rubber. Some folks like the 'macho' look of braided lines. If so, go for it. For function and safety, I would choose regular steel line, first and NiCu in second position of those choices.

 

CoNiFer. Copper Nickel Iron alloy. It's great to work with. Hand tools produce very nice results. Harder than copper, slightly softer than steel. It has been used as OEM on European cars, notably Volvo. Corrosion resistant. Has a dark copper like patina with a very slight purplish hue. Last time I bought some, the US distributor is in Maine. Google.

In the past I've had good results making brake lines out of copper tubing....very easy to make. Then send them to In-Line Tube. They laser scan them and reproduce them in stainless steel. An idea is to make your new gas lines in CoNiFer and then for the line segments that show in the engine compartment, going to the carb/fuel injection, send them to In-Line to be duplicated in stainless. I'm assuming In-Line still offers this service.

 

That is exactly what Classic Tube has been doing for decades. They have tens of thousands of models on their system. You call them up and they can make a set of exact original curves just bent in half gently. They have the turns all memorized on their computer so the lines look just like the factory ones I was replacing. They did a set of Fuel Supply and Return lines for me as well. They give you a couple choices of different metals but they come ready to install with very little hand work.

I used an Earl's PTFE lined -8 AN Hose that came with my Holley Sniper Stealth system so I tried them out for the first time. You cut it off with something sharp and they are a bit easier to install even over the SS Braided Hoses. I ran the new Fuel line along the frame and followed the original path. When I got near the engine area I put a Flame Resistant Insulating Sheath over the lines and secure it then run the insulated fuel lines to the throttle body coming in from the rear of the engine. The return-less Fuel system Holley is using and selling works very nicely.

You can check out Carlson Brake systems online as they sell, Steel, PVF a newer material where the interior of the line is steel while the outside is coated with polyvinyl fluoride or the Copper Nickel Brake Line Kit. The later was $29 for a 25 foot roll of the 1/4" Copper Nickel Brake line and a handful of fittings. Interestingly they are making replacement ABS sensors for some GM models, it would be nice if they made some for the C4's.
Here is their link: https://brakesystems.autopartsu.com/...ake-line-kits/

 

A tubing bender and flare tool can help you make what lines you need. I bent mine up out of stainless and used AN flare nuts.