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Old Aug 13, 2021 | 02:01 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by wadenelson
How do you know that?
you can feel it at idle or when you rev the engine, plus the engine runs very cool in traffic or open road no change since I added the foam collar the vent its a major source of air flow the air dam pushes air up into radiator without the vents to relieve pressure the air flow would be restricted.
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Old Aug 13, 2021 | 09:25 AM
  #22  
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The plain old foil Nashua HVAC tape you get at Home Depot works great as long as you have the surface clean.Stands up to the heat just fine.
I used it to secure this stuff and it made a noticeable difference. Also used it on the inside of the firewall when I had the entire dash and heater core out. Seems cheap and pretty effective.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QYJW4D4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QYJW4D4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Old Aug 15, 2021 | 03:22 PM
  #23  
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I have one but haven't installed it yet. Does the thicker end go on the driver's side???
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Old Aug 15, 2021 | 03:32 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by simon60
I have one but haven't installed it yet. Does the thicker end go on the driver's side???
don’t remember exactly but you can kinda see which side is bigger..pic indicates drivers side..



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Old Aug 15, 2021 | 05:05 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by simon60
I have one but haven't installed it yet. Does the thicker end go on the driver's side???

From my AIM. Kinda hard to tell, but I agree with interpon.
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Old Aug 16, 2021 | 11:15 AM
  #26  
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I would say yes.
The engine is offset roughly 1 inch to the passenger side, so it would make sense you would need a little thicker foam on the drivers side.
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Old Aug 16, 2021 | 11:28 AM
  #27  
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Just get the 2 inch rubber pipe insulator and stuff it in the gap.. Not a big problem.
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Old Sep 17, 2021 | 05:59 PM
  #28  
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Default Tunnel Insulation

Bit the bullet and bought the tunnel insulation. Sometime in life we just get to the age where we don't wanna take time to screw with mods and such just to save a few bucks. The original 1973 insulation was an absolute embarrassment! Deformed, oil-soaked, etc.


Anyway, received this today and have questions on installing it properly.


I'm naturally cleaning up the gunk from previous years oil-spewing engines before me and want to know if I am correct on this:


This picture is pointing out the stud anchors for the Positive Pole Battery Cable, going to the Starter.

The yellow marked studs are where the new Tunnel Insulation contacts, while the red stud is too far forward.
Question; Am I right in attaching the Battery Cable to the body tunnel first (C-clamps on the 2 studs with nuts), placing the Insulation piece on and through the studs, then with a large Fender-type washer and nut secure in place? Why else would the studs be so damn long? Just a supply issue?
I am aware of the pointed "Retainers", but they need replacing too since bending their points out (in order to pierce and hold the insulation) tends to break them off.


Assembly Manual a bit unclear about the Cable. Can't believe the Cable would run on the exposed side of the insulation.

Don't mean to Hijack your thread Jimbo, but it is somewhat related and too many good responders to ignore here. My honest apology sir.
Steve
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 09:31 PM
  #29  
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Default Better picture of foam horse collar on transmission C3


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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 06:47 AM
  #30  
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Love those old production pictures Wade. Thanks.
Looks like an adhesive is used on the Bell Housing for securing it.

Steve
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 07:30 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u

This picture is pointing out the stud anchors for the Positive Pole Battery Cable, going to the Starter.

The yellow marked studs are where the new Tunnel Insulation contacts, while the red stud is too far forward.
Question; Am I right in attaching the Battery Cable to the body tunnel first (C-clamps on the 2 studs with nuts), placing the Insulation piece on and through the studs, then with a large Fender-type washer and nut secure in place? Why else would the studs be so damn long? Just a supply issue?
I am aware of the pointed "Retainers", but they need replacing too since bending their points out (in order to pierce and hold the insulation) tends to break them off.


Assembly Manual a bit unclear about the Cable. Can't believe the Cable would run on the exposed side of the insulation.

Don't mean to Hijack your thread Jimbo, but it is somewhat related and too many good responders to ignore here. My honest apology sir.
Steve
You're correct that cable goes against the floor, then the insulation goes on afterwards
The studs were only for the battery cable clamps, all of the studs have a clamp on them. IIRC 3 down the passenger side then one on the top of the tunnel behind the shifter a bit and then two on the drivers side
The insulation was only held by the pointed clips being bent over, no washers or anything on the studs.
M

Last edited by Mooser; Oct 3, 2021 at 07:31 PM. Reason: checked and there are 2 studs on the drivers side
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 08:21 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Mooser
You're correct that cable goes against the floor, then the insulation goes on afterwards
The studs were only for the battery cable clamps, all of the studs have a clamp on them. IIRC 3 down the passenger side then one on the top of the tunnel behind the shifter a bit and then two on the drivers side
The insulation was only held by the pointed clips being bent over, no washers or anything on the studs.
M
Correct. I was going to replace all the clips when I replaced the trans tunnel foil insulation as called out in the AIM but after buying a box of them I found out that I could use the originals over. I thought they be all rusty and break when taking to old blanket off but all but one did. Now I have a box of the pointed clips.
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Old Nov 1, 2021 | 03:08 PM
  #33  
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Default Transmission tunnel insulation

Does anyone know which way it should be installed? Large part over the bellhousing or over the transmission?
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Old Nov 1, 2021 | 03:24 PM
  #34  
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Big wide end towards the engine, small end towards the driveshaft
M
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Old Nov 1, 2021 | 03:45 PM
  #35  
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Thanks much. I have installed that way but it appears that I need to move it rearward off the bellhousing to cover more of the transmission.
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Old Nov 1, 2021 | 03:49 PM
  #36  
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The front of the insulation roughly lines up with the seam between the tunnel and the firewall
B
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Old Nov 1, 2021 | 03:57 PM
  #37  
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Remember to add the foam horse-collar as well
M
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Old Nov 1, 2021 | 04:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Mooser
Remember to add the foam horse-collar as well
M
Much easier to install before rather than AFTER the engine/tranny is installed, if you have that option.
I know this.

Steve
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Old Nov 1, 2021 | 07:53 PM
  #39  
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This work is being done on a 1965 C2. I used the insulation available on many of the Corvette parts sites. It is the $50 part that is insulated with reflective surfaces facing the transmission. The part I purchased fits over the trans and tail shaft. I assume that this is the "horse collar". I am not aware of a insulation available farther forward. The one I installed did in fact match up with four factory triangular attachment points located in the tunnel. Not easy installing it with the engine and trans in the car but I did find a way to do it. Thanks for all of the help.

Mike
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