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re-torque the header bolts several times , while warm is the best. It usually take me 4-5 heat cycles to get everything leak free. Carefully wire loom your plug wires.
Can you take pics and your choices of header?
very interested in your fit and advice especially around clutch linkage steering with stock ac assume?
Not a lot of manual later full accessories header reports
Use header studs, not bolts. Pictured are ARP stainless, 3/8" all the way. A better bet is the 3/8" - 5/16" split (doesn't need to be stainless), which puts smaller nuts next to the tubes. With 3/8" nuts, I still had to dimple some tubes, even using an open end wrench. I don't know many open end wrenches that fit 12-point nuts, so stay away from those if you have large tubes. And order parts to rebuild your Z-bar while you are in there, since it will have to come to fit the headers.
Last edited by Bikespace; Aug 25, 2021 at 01:03 AM.
The whole idea with 12 point nuts or 12 point bolts is, it doubles the positions you can use a wrench on. Instead of 6 wrench angles, you would have 12.
And in tight confinements, that is a huge win. Especially on Headers and Intake Manifold bolts where you are limited on how far you can swing a wrench.
Plus, 12 point doubles the contact area for torqueing or loosening (instead of "rounding corners"). Another win.
Always use sockets or box end on 12 point.
12 point fasteners is the best thing since sliced bread.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Aug 25, 2021 at 09:10 AM.
based on every "speed magazine" I read back in the 70s and 80s you'll need to find one or two bikini clad girls in high heels and they can just hold them up in the air above the motor and somehow in they go without even jacking the car up...
M
(oh and you'll need some random tools that don't have anything to do with the job scattered on the ground as well)
based on every "speed magazine" I read back in the 70s and 80s you'll need to find one or two bikini clad girls in high heels and they can just hold them up in the air above the motor and somehow in they go without even jacking the car up...
M
(oh and you'll need some random tools that don't have anything to do with the job scattered on the ground as well)
You are WAAAAAAAAAAAYYYY out of line. They were wearing short-shorts and go-go boots.
based on every "speed magazine" I read back in the 70s and 80s you'll need to find one or two bikini clad girls in high heels and they can just hold them up in the air above the motor and somehow in they go without even jacking the car up...
M
(oh and you'll need some random tools that don't have anything to do with the job scattered on the ground as well)
Yep, installed mine from the bottom and they went on with no issues. Don't talk about the idler arm though, if you get Hedman then you'll be denting a tube.
FWIW - For me what worked best after installing new headers and or gaskets was to fire up the engine even drive it for a while then retorque the bolts/studs the next day after everything cooled down. doing this a couple times worked good. Now i'm using Remflex gaskets which say they do not need to be retorqued. i think they are right. i try to snug them anyway but they pretty much won't tighten anymore after they are installed.
