So i have recently acquired a 74 base model corvette and for the most part I have only encountered minor issues that I have been able to fix or deal with until they NEED to be fixed. Now the person I got it from said the gas pedal needed to be pumped 10-13 times before starting when having sat for a day. I have found this to be insane overkill and it usually starts with 1-2 pumps after having sat. The issue I am having is when I turn it over it cranks a couple of times (maybe 2 seconds) and then stops the cranking. The starter continues to make a turning noise but not an actual cranking the engine sound. I have to let off the key and try again. And SOMETIMES that second attempt I just get a click and no further action. I am decently mechanically inclined but electrical is not my best. Seems like a grounding issue maybe. Im not sure. I also don’t fully understand the ignition/starter/cranking of the engine relationship with this car and where the problem may be.

I am very new to a lot of this and dumb questions may come here and there. Be gentle and thanks for any and all help.

 

Welcome to the forum.

When you turn the key to start, you are energizing a solenoid which is mounted on top of the starter. That solenoid, in turn, moves a fork which moves a gear into mesh with the teeth on the outer rim of the flywheel while simultaneously allowing electrical current to flow directly from the battery to the starter.

Start (no pun intended) with the obvious. Check the battery. Make sure it is fully charged. A low battery voltage can result in the clicking sound as there isn’t enough voltage present to actually turn the starter. The clicking you hear is just the solenoid moving.

There is a ground cable running from the battery box to the frame. Make sure that that connection is clean and free of any corrosion.

If you are sure the battery and the ground cable are good, I would next pull the starter and inspect the teeth on the flywheel. If damaged, you may be looking at pulling the transmission and replacing the flywheel. Let’s hope you don’t need to do that.

With the starter removed, you can pull the solenoid and inspect all the mechanism and ensure no impediment to normal motion. Inspect the teeth on the gear to make sure no damage exists. Shoot a pic for us to see if you have questions.

You can bench test the starter with it out and observe it function. The starter itself is not complicated but you need the right equipment to measure It properly. A good auto electric repair facility should be able to do that for you.

 

Funny thing havnt had the issue at all since posting. I do plan on doing all of these things tho and checking what I can. For now alternator issue and breaks! The list keeps growing but Im addicted already to working on it.

 

bendix is bad. replace the starter.

 

Things like that are easy to forget about - they'll remind you.

Having to pump the gas is one thing to get it started, what you are describing with the starter is another. Every time you pump the pedal the accelerator pump on the carb shoots gas down the primaries. A cold start is normally three full pedal pumps, the first one sets the high idle cam on the carb so it idles a little higher until it warms up and the choke opens, after a few minutes then you can blip the throttle and it'll drop down to normal idle.

Pull the starter and bench test it like 69L88 said. Might just be a solenoid. Hell, check to see if the connections are tight on the solenoid - that bit me once. You might want to pull the negative lead to the battery when you do that.

 

Or the Bendix is fine and your flywheel is worn down to the point that it only grabs in a few spots. There is an inspection cover you can take down at the bottom of the bell housing and see what's going on. If it keeps doing it, make sure you have the car in park / neutral with the parking brake on and then look in there and short the battery and start terminals with a screwdriver and see what is going on.

 

Its always a good idea to check all the grounds when you are under the car. You should have a cable from the negative post on the battery to the frame just under the battery. A ground on the starter to the frame and a ground on the engine block itself to the frame. The either get a battery tester that you have to program in the CCA cold cranking amps or bring it to a auto parts store that checks them for free. Having the problem go away lends me to believe either the battery was low voltage and got better after along drive which means its probably on its last legs or that the grounds where questionable an something got moved and gave you a slightly better connection

 

if that were the case you would hear it grind as the drive releases. and it would then grind until you turned the flywheel. i did starters for a decade.

 

ssb19:
your74 ...stick or auto? ...points ign or not?

 

makes no diff with this problem. except he could roll it down a hill and pop the clutch...

 

it does matter when preparing to suggest a top-value replacement starter.

I respect your experience; how's about meet me halfway?

 

Its an automatic. Don’t understand the second question

 

Go to NAPA Auto Parts and buy a starter bendix for $12.82, could also be the solenoid going bad that part is $28.00. Easy enough to replace both.

 

First thing I would do is take the Solenoid apart. There is a large flat washer that makes contact with a bolt that is in the front of the solenoid. You will see where the flat washer touches the bolt.Turn the bolt 180 degrees and flip the washer, now you have two new mating contacts. Remove the armature and clean were the brushes ride with some fine emery cloth. Replace brushes and lube end bearing. Bench test and happy motoring.

 

it is not the solenoid. the starter continues to spin. the sol is still making contact. the bendix is a one-way roller or sprag clutch. it is worn out. takes a somewhat special tool to re-lock the clip that holds it in place. if your 74 no longer has the points distributor, you no longer need the R terminal that gives hotter spark while cranking. if that is the case, https://www.ebay.com/itm/16291472887...Cclp%3A2334524 this type or this type, https://www.ebay.com/itm/16291472887...Cclp%3A2334524 both are modern permanent magnet gear reduction starters. lighter, smaller, less susceptable to heat-soak. they just don't have the R terminal for points distributors. yes your old style starter can be repaired. or bought new from most parts stores. or ebay, etc. https://www.ebay.com/itm/28429406276...cAAOSwLHZgnmwa or find a rebuilder in your area and ask if they still do 3510's. delco 10MT.

 

Does your ignition system's Distributor have points & condenser inside it ... OR, something else ?

 

SSB19:
No matter If your Distributor does or does Not have points & condenser ignition, DO upgrade to this later design OE-type Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction Starter:

https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...lications-list

Above PMGR starter has an "R" terminal for point & condenser ignitions. However, if you don't need an "R" terminal, simply ignore it.
Above PMGR starter is for applications with 168 Tooth flexplate/flywheel (as majority of 74 C3 do have). Starter has a "staggered" mounting bolt pattern.

When upgrading to & retrofitting a later, OE-type PMGR starter; installing the proper starter mounting bolts is CRITICAL. Read the below for reliable guidance.

https://autoprollc.com/wp-content/up...eb2016_web.pdf

JMO, I don't care much for those aftermarket starters which have no nose to support shaft. YMMV.

 

Update coming soon. Just fixed a massive alternator belt/ground issue. Working on the starter next. Still haven’t even pulled it. Thank you all for the great responses.

 

If the starter is spinning but not engaging with the flywheel, the Bendix drive on the starter is probably the problem. If the starter is NOT spinning at times, the solenoid is more likely to be the cause.