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I'm trying to get my '82 'Vette to start and run on its own. It will start with starter fluid, don't hear fuel pump when turning the key, disconnected fuel pump plug and wired directly to the battery and I can hear it working, but still won't start, I changed out the FP fuse (blown) and still nothing. I pulled the Fuel Pump Relay, tested and it is was fine. I still need to check the injector fuses (tomorrow), but could it be the ECM?
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Originally Posted by ConradS1
I'm trying to get my '82 'Vette to start and run on its own. It will start with starter fluid, don't hear fuel pump when turning the key, disconnected fuel pump plug and wired directly to the battery and I can hear it working, but still won't start, I changed out the FP fuse (blown) and still nothing. I pulled the Fuel Pump Relay, tested and it is was fine. I still need to check the injector fuses (tomorrow), but could it be the ECM?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Conrad
Does the Check Engine light come ON at all when you turn the key to ON position? Let me know.
Make sure the fuel pump runs and fuel pressure is to spec 9-12 psi. Initial concern is what the condition of the pump is right now, especially if the fuse was blown, If it's a high mileage car it could have wear and will take out the fuse again, Once you have fuel pressure, then take a look at the injectors, if it doesn't start. One other thing, when you first turn the key to the ON position, the fuel pump should run for 2 seconds to build pressure, That feature is controlled by the ECM.
Last edited by Mrvettenick; Aug 29, 2021 at 12:15 PM.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
It really doesn't matter about the fuel pump right now or the injectors. IF the CEL does NOT come ON at all with the key in the ON position, that IS a tale tell sign that the fuse in the battery box is bad which is the direct dedicated power to the ECM. With the ECM OFF, with the fuse bad, the motor will crank, you WILL get spark, but NO fuel. Hence the relay checking good under that condition. However, it could be something else as well. DO YOU HAVE A GM SERVICE MANUAL? If not, GET ONE! Lots of good troubleshooting in that manual.
Last edited by Buccaneer; Aug 29, 2021 at 12:54 PM.
It really doesn't matter about the fuel pump right now or the injectors. IF the CEL does NOT come ON at all with the key in the ON position, that IS a tale tell sign that the fuse in the battery box is bad which is the direct dedicated power to the ECM. With the ECM OFF, with the fuse bad, the motor will crank, you WILL get spark, but NO fuel. Hence the relay checking good under that condition. However, it could be something else as well. DO YOU HAVE A GM SERVICE MANUAL? If not, GET ONE! Lots of good troubleshooting in that manual.
Not sure if I agree. Aren't you concerned about a blown fuel pump fuse?
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Nope! This is a VERY simple test...Insert key and turn to ON. If it doesn't light, the fuse is blown and ECM will not work. Now that would be a concern at that point and more than likely if that's the case, it is likely a corrosion issue at fuse holder.
I checked the injector and ECM fuses today. All were good, but so far every fuse I pull has a white corrosion on them. I've replace all with new fuses, but think I might have to try and pull the fuse box to clean all the contacts.
With fuel pump disconnected from harness and connected directly to battery, the pump works. I disconnected the inlet to the throttle body, ran the fuel pump and gas came out strongly. I reconnected the inlet and disconnected the return from 2nd throttle body and it also came out strongly.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Originally Posted by ConradS1
It was working a couple weeks ago (last time I was able to do anything), but not now.
OK, STOP! Again, if the CEL is NOT coming ON with the key to ON position, there is an issue with power going to the ECM as long as the bulb is good. If the ECM does NOT work, the motor will NOT start, no fuel to the motor. Use the manual to troubleshoot circuits if you have to do that, to find the problem. I'm willing to bet that corrosion is causing the issue at either the ECM connectors or the fuse holder. Enough said...
Last edited by Buccaneer; Aug 30, 2021 at 11:32 AM.
Yes....if the fuse is ok.....then you have to dig into the harness and start tracing. First thing to do with the key on is get a test light......the ECM fuse should have power at least on one side.....both if the fuse is ok.....this will tell you how to continue.
Thanks Buccaneer. I am going to finish checking all the fuses and then the CEL if still nothing. When I pulled the ECM to get to the Fuel Pump Relay, I cleaning all the contacts for the ECM.
You might also make sure the CEL dash bulb is good. If that bulb is good and the CEL does not illuminate, your ECM has some kind of problem. You need to get the engine management system up-and-running (even if NOT running) before you can resolve any such issue. The system needs to be operational in order to diagnose and resolve any problems with it.
ie, if you find a fuse blown and replace it, the control system will still not be operational without the CEL light illuminating when the ignition is turned ON (not to start position).
If you own a Crossfire a GM TBI noid light and fuel pressure gauge (that you can readly connect) is something to keep in your tool box. A "good stream of fuel" is only a volume test. A pressure gauge mounted between the two TB is even better. And I've said this before, don't use starting fluid for troubleshooting. Use gas in a squirt bottle. You ain't trying to start a diesel in Siberia.