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Does anyone know if the mounting studs that screw into the back of a pump on a 79 should have o rings around them? I put a reman pump on my car tonight and there was a small trail of fluid running out from one of the mounting studs. This was before ever starting the car. I pulled the pump back off, found some o rings, capped the fluid fittings and filled the reservoir with fluid, and left it on the garage floor on cardboard, upright, to see if there's any trace of fluid on the cardboard tomorrow night.
Does anyone know if the mounting studs that screw into the back of a pump on a 79 should have o rings around them? I put a reman pump on my car tonight and there was a small trail of fluid running out from one of the mounting studs. This was before ever starting the car. I pulled the pump back off, found some o rings, capped the fluid fittings and filled the reservoir with fluid, and left it on the garage floor on cardboard, upright, to see if there's any trace of fluid on the cardboard tomorrow night.
Yes, by the diagram, I think what I'm looking for is the o ring #2. I'm going to walk out to the garage before going to bed and see if it has leaked any. I'll hopefully be putting it back on tomorrow night.
Yes, there was a diagram years ago on this forum showing the internals of the pump and two "O" rings for the studs. The seals are the same diameter as the threaded hole. So the O ring went inside the pump, not on the outside of the stud.
Evidently those threaded holes go right into the reservoir.
I think i can put this one to bed. All it back together, the car has been running on stands with my wife cycling the wheel back and forth and a clean piece of cardboard underneath is still clean an hour later. I'll see what it looks like tomorrow and hope I can put it back on the floor and then wait for a dry day to drive the car!
Most interesting post and what I'd like to know as a senior senior gent HTH can the PS fluid be checked as the alternator stuff covers the pump opening???
Must be a trick I am missing bc is appears to be impossible unless the Alt etc is removed..
Most interesting post and what I'd like to know as a senior senior gent HTH can the PS fluid be checked as the alternator stuff covers the pump opening???
Must be a trick I am missing bc is appears to be impossible unless the Alt etc is removed..
JJ78
You can sneak the cap out......then just shine a light and look in there.....
Most interesting post and what I'd like to know as a senior senior gent HTH can the PS fluid be checked as the alternator stuff covers the pump opening???
Must be a trick I am missing bc is appears to be impossible unless the Alt etc is removed..
JJ78
This is why some people choose to convert to right (passenger) side alternator setup. I personally don’t care about originality, so I’m strongly considering doing the swap, or possibly a serpentine setup, when I’m ready to drop the crate engine in my 74.
This is why some people choose to convert to right (passenger) side alternator setup. I personally don’t care about originality, so I’m strongly considering doing the swap, or possibly a serpentine setup, when I’m ready to drop the crate engine in my 74.
The serpentine is a MUCH better option if the car has A/C.......you can pilfer the whole setup from 1987 to 1995 Silverado 305/350, 1989-1992 Caprice 305/350, 1987-1992 Camaro 305/350.....
Moving the A/C compressor to the other side would be a nightmare.
My friend and I converted a 71' C20 back to a drivers side Alternator to get the factory A/C working again......just open the hood of any 73-86 Chevy Pickup with A/C and you will see what I mean.....
Others modify/machine a half moon on the Alt bracket that bolts to the head right above the cap......I should have done this before I had all of my **** powdercoated......
Most interesting post and what I'd like to know as a senior senior gent HTH can the PS fluid be checked as the alternator stuff covers the pump opening???
Must be a trick I am missing bc is appears to be impossible unless the Alt etc is removed..
Tx Jebbysan,
It must be me bc when I tried to shimmy it out it was hard to read where the fluid actually was with reference to the add add mark vs cold vs hot temp...
Tx Jebbysan,
It must be me bc when I tried to shimmy it out it was hard to read where the fluid actually was with reference to the add add mark vs cold vs hot temp...
JJ78
Nah....just shine a small flashlight in the reservoir with the cap off......make sure there is some in it.....a couple of inches from the top.....the hot/cold dipstick is kinda unnecessary, and impossible.... it is a hydraulic pump reservoir, it just needs enough in it to feed the pump. Not too much...not too little....mine is two inches from the top and that is how I check it.....
This is what I have done..1st I removed all the old fluid via a large turkey baster and that seemed to drain it all out.
Then I tried to refill it as best as I could...Took if for two short trips and rechecked the level and it was no where near the top of the pump??
I added a few more ounces to try and get it right below the opening of the pump...And now I need to know if I can do a latex glove finger dip and see what happens and of course using a strong flashlight to see where I'm at!!
FWIW my alternator is pretty much at the very end of the adjustment and the power steering pump is in the middle, and I'm able to sneak the cap out when needed. Factory setup with whatever belts were called for when NAPA looked them up.
FWIW my alternator is pretty much at the very end of the adjustment and the power steering pump is in the middle, and I'm able to sneak the cap out when needed. Factory setup with whatever belts were called for when NAPA looked them up.
its the bracket that is in the way not the alternator. The bracket does not move.
Agreed and the bracket is what makes it almost impossible to remove the cap/dipstick with senior hands/fingers...lmbo
Will try the Jebbysan suggestion!!