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In the process of replacing my front rotors, I ran into the problem that is common on these cars. Runout on the hub face creating larger runout on the rotor. After looking at the possible solutions, I wondered why someone doesn't just make a replacement hub that is true out of the box. Well, I think I may have found one. Reduko RK600-01. I am not thrilled with the details provided on Holley's website, but I will be the guinea pig for the group. Hopefully, my assumption of it being true out of the box, will be correct. If not it will go back and you will benefit from my experience.
In the process of replacing my front rotors, I ran into the problem that is common on these cars. Runout on the hub face creating larger runout on the rotor. After looking at the possible solutions, I wondered why someone doesn't just make a replacement hub that is true out of the box. Well, I think I may have found one. Reduko RK600-01. I am not thrilled with the details provided on Holley's website, but I will be the guinea pig for the group. Hopefully, my assumption of it being true out of the box, will be correct. If not it will go back and you will benefit from my experience.
cool.. could not find county of origin.. but anyway sponsor vendor has same price as Holley (google) but 10% off and free shipping FYI
Well they all had runout in them, that is why they were riveted to the rotor and turned as I'm sure you know. The front hubs are soft and can be faced in a lathe or on the races in a brake lathe much easier then the rears. They can still be shimmed to under 003"as well in most cases
Well folks, the verdict is in. One of the hubs came in and had .002" runout on the hub face. The second one had .013" runout. I sent the second one back thinking maybe it was an anomaly. I got the replacement one today and installed it to check runout. Not as bad as the last one but at .007" still far worse than I would have expected. So the moral of the story is don't bother spending money on these hubs thinking it will save you from playing the shim game.
Well folks, the verdict is in. One of the hubs came in and had .002" runout on the hub face. The second one had .013" runout. I sent the second one back thinking maybe it was an anomaly. I got the replacement one today and installed it to check runout. Not as bad as the last one but at .007" still far worse than I would have expected. So the moral of the story is don't bother spending money on these hubs thinking it will save you from playing the shim game.
Well folks, the verdict is in. One of the hubs came in and had .002" runout on the hub face. The second one had .013" runout. I sent the second one back thinking maybe it was an anomaly. I got the replacement one today and installed it to check runout. Not as bad as the last one but at .007" still far worse than I would have expected. So the moral of the story is don't bother spending money on these hubs thinking it will save you from playing the shim game.
I agree 100%, most expect new parts to be perfect- an many are but too many are like this - all over the place. I would never replace front hubs unless they were damaged beyond repair. I true some up in my lathe but many just need to be deburred and shimmed to dial them in. Now back in the day- 35 years ago- you could go to your chevy dealer and drop about $150 list price for a new hub & rotor with new races installed. With a discount they were $100 each the last time I bought one- a long time ago.
Wow
I just looked at those and man if you bought them I have a bridge in Brooklyn NY for sale. There is no reason as I stated above that stock hubs need to be replaced. We drove them 100k miles, raced them, they don't wear out unless you crash them into something.
Thank u for clearing this up, you would think the machining processes today would yield more accurate parts. I think that brand is a China offshore brand… I was looking at there rotors with the black coating and ultimately decided against them and went with centric cyrotreated which I got on sale on tire rack for $50 each (normally $100 each).
anyway I drank a case of beer (can form) and cut a few shins out, got all my rotors under .003/4 with new rotors all the way around. Most were .002 and one was .003/4. I just rebuilt my calipers with high temp silicone Oring kits so as long as I’m under .005” I’ll be fine.