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Hate to say it but the cluster needs to come out. You will need to unclip the speedometer cable and unplug the dash gauge wiring. Once the cluster is out, the fasteners are much more accessible.
The lower column bracket is actually the adjustment for the column height and location. It acts like a wedge as you push the bracket in or pull the bracket out raising or lowering the column.
Okey Dokey.
I had the Instrument Cluster out once before. Replaced a few backlighting bulbs. Been a few years since though. All procedure over 5 years old and it's in the fog anymore. Part of the aging process I guess.
I'll get it. Thanks much.
Yes, Dropping the Instrument Panel exposes those last two attachment bolts. Bastards were tight. Had to use a flex handle to loosen 'em..
Relatively heavy too. At least it is when your holding it up with one hand, wrenching with the other, all the while in an awkward reach. Will clean it and it's lower counterpart up in the solvent tank and paint them to a wrought iron likeness.
The ultimate prize!
Better quit for the day. Smooth sailin' normally doesn't last too long with me.
I am not 100% sure you need a brake pedal bumper. I didn't have one before and my pedal never got close to the bracket.
Yeah, this one too. When I removed the Brake Booster Clevis Pin, discovered the Clevis's rod length prevented the return spring-driven Brake Pedal from traveling all the way "up" and contacting the Bumper. Kinda wonder if that's a good thing for the Booster. Will see if maybe the Clevis Rod screws out for length adjustment and puts that Bumper to work.
My plan, in order of assembly;
1. Pedal Cluster into position by way of the 4 upper bolts in the windshield wiper area
2. Brake Booster (4 Bracket Nuts and Pedal Clevis)
3. Top Cast Iron Bracket (2 bolts)
4. Instrument Dashboard (screws galore)
5. Steering Column
6. Will find out what's next when I get there.
I would not want to disturb the existing brake clevis setting. Mine was working fine before and had no bumper or contact. The hole might be there just for non-power brakes or some other reason. I never could find an answer looking through the assembly manual. If you leave it off first, you can always add it back later if you ever find a need for it.
Yes, the clevis rod does not screw in or out; length unadjustable.
Made some good progress this AM.
Set the Pedal Cluster in place, placing a big screw in the lower mounting hole to keep it in place.
Started the bolts in the upper mount.
Set the Brake Booster into place and by luck, the clevis went right onto the Pedal Arm. The four mounting nuts aren't torqued yet, so the Clevis/Rod will go closer to the Clevis Pin hole. Will find out how close soon.
And speakin of mounting nuts, I got them all started, including the top bastards! An impact gun will make the tightening of these a lot more pleasant.
Just had to show my progress here.
Z-Bar Frame Bracket on.
A side Transmission Mount Bracket had to be added to the Automatic Car's Crossmember. My neighbor who did the welding took care of both side brackets too.
Not much is said about these little brackets, in what I reviewed on Auto-to-4-speed Conversions anyway. They are definitely necessary for Tranny support.
Now I can proceed with the assembly of pretty much everything left, now that the clutch can be assembled.
I just noticed there is no SEAT, #2, inside the Z-Bar (#1) and the Engine Stud (#8). Hard for me to believe it's just metal on metal there, but diagram says I better. Has anyone here who has assembled this ever put one there?
You can put a single seat in the engine side BUT keep in mind, the engine vibrates....moves around a bit....one end of the Z-bar is "fixed" (at the frame) and the other end is allowed to "float" along as the engine moves around. This is how it is designed to work.
Will find out what's next when I get there.
