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Now that the M20 and 383 are joined and mounted, and after eyeballing/marking the Z-Bar's outboard frame mount for welding, I looked into what it's gonna take to mount up the Clutch/Brake Pedal cluster this morning. A Cluster it is!
I removed the Driver's Seat in an effort to make this step easier, but after laying down and looking up at it from the floor, this is going to be anything other than easy. I understand the concept of how the shaft end clips work. But How did you get to them? Just asking those here who have done this, had they used any procedural tricks in reaching up there and work, in order to R&R the Pedals. Looks to me as if it's the most difficult step in the conversion.
Any help/pointers are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I removed the steering column too. This made things much easier. I also used a combination of extensions on my ratchet with a swivel that was needed on the top corner nuts. My toughest part was hooking up and adjusting the break switch and the neutral safety switch. It wasn't all that hard i took my time. Your getting closer!
I removed the steering column too. This made things much easier. I also used a combination of extensions on my ratchet with a swivel that was needed on the top corner nuts. My toughest part was hooking up and adjusting the break switch and the neutral safety switch. It wasn't all that hard i took my time. Your getting closer!
Thanks for the encouragement John!
Yes, I can sure see that getting the column outta there will allow much more space. I've rebuilt this Tilt/Telescopic column once before, so I think I've got a handle on that.
But you mentioned top corner nuts. What do these nuts hold? Are you talking about removing the Pedal Bracket from the Firewall? That definitely would make disassembling the big Brake Pedal and installing the new Clutch/Brake Pedal assembly a helluva lot easier.
Steve -
I have 2 personal recommendations for you:
Box of Band-Aids
Bottle of Whiskey
Lars
You know what I'm up against Lars. But I got it covered!
I guess the easy stuff is about over with, like this. Easy to work on and having room to do it.
It's all up there. Somewhere.
My bed.
But even if I knew before starting this, that it would all be this tricky work in converting to a 4-Speed, I'd still go ahead with it. Pretty sure I stated on this forum once before about a comparison between a Corvette without a 4-Speed and something else.
Thanks for all comments guys. Keeps me goin.
Steve
First remove the four nuts that hold the power brake booster and move the booster back. Next in the windshield wiper valley there are four bolts that will drop the peddle assembly. I did this but I am doing a body off and everything is accessible and i am installing a hydraulic clutch so NO Z bar. Good Luck
First remove the four nuts that hold the power brake booster and move the booster back. Next in the windshield wiper valley there are four bolts that will drop the peddle assembly. I did this but I am doing a body off and everything is accessible and i am installing a hydraulic clutch so NO Z bar. Good Luck
Found 'em!
And very glad you brought this up to my attention: A good amount of corrosion here that needs a cleanup on this '73!
Thanks much for that info!
And the new clutch plate fingers appear so stiff, that I too thought about hydraulic assist.
I don’t remember exactly how many bolts there were but it’s obvious from looking at the new pedal assembly. There’s nothing magic about it. When you get all the bolts out the pedal bracket comes out. FWIW when I did mine I removed the drivers seat, the steering column, and the instrument cluster and I don’t recall it being all that difficult. Keep plugging away at it. It’s definitely worth it in the end.
I don’t remember exactly how many bolts there were but it’s obvious from looking at the new pedal assembly. There’s nothing magic about it. When you get all the bolts out the pedal bracket comes out. FWIW when I did mine I removed the drivers seat, the steering column, and the instrument cluster and I don’t recall it being all that difficult. Keep plugging away at it. It’s definitely worth it in the end.
Thanks much! I was wondering if I should touch that instrument cluster, cuz it is covering up another support bracket that may need removal.
What tools did you use to get to and remover the Booster's upper retaining nuts?
The lower ones are a piece of cake, using a deep socket and ratchet. Those X's are areas of ratchet interference for the upper nuts. Inboard side .....
Socket extensions required there. Doesn't look too bad if you think about how hard it will be to reinstall it once you add another pedal in there. Need to remove the clevis pin too.
Socket extensions required there. Doesn't look too bad if you think about how hard it will be to reinstall it once you add another pedal in there. Need to remove the clevis pin too.
You ae SO right!
I finally just got 'em out.
The Brake Switch Bracket was in the way and removable (3/8" socket on 1/4" flex handle/ Ratchet too thick).
The socket and two fingers got the long screws out.
A 1/2" deep socket, 3/8" Universal Drive, Medium Extension did the job.
Proof!
Left the easiest-to-get-to nut for last. Lock nuts and long fine threads didn't help the removal, but can see the added security needed for a critical assembly.
I left the Clevis Pin in the Brake Pedal because there's pressure against it for some reason. Maybe I'm just feeling the pressure from the Pedal Return Spring. But anyway, THOSE UPPER NUTS ARE OUT!
That last nut and the two bolts in the first picture above appear to be the only fasteners left holding the bracket in place. Am I right or is there a surprise waiting for me?
The 3rd pedal gets installed in the pedal box on the bench and the clutch (neutral) safety switch goes on along with the EXTENSION HARNESS". You can either buy one or just make one from the pigtails cut off the shifter. Either way, you need to install the new extension harness BEFORE you reinstall the pedal box.
If you choose to make the harness extension, just cut the purple and purple/white wires off flush at the shifter switch and add 2 female spade terminals on the cut ends. Keep the plastic terminal end intact because you will reuse it. The console harness can be unwound about 18" so you can pull out and re-route the 2 wires/terminal needed for the clutch switch then re-wrap the harness. You don't really need to use new harness wrap but if you have some, the job goes easier and faster. You can re-wrap as you un-wrap.
Then the worst part of the job....reinstalling the pedal box.
The 3rd pedal gets installed in the pedal box on the bench and the clutch (neutral) safety switch goes on along with the EXTENSION HARNESS". You can either buy one or just make one from the pigtails cut off the shifter. Either way, you need to install the new extension harness BEFORE you reinstall the pedal box.
Then the worst part of the job....reinstalling the pedal box.
Thanks much for this info my friend!
I've been thinking of passing up on a Safety Switch installation. I see it's pigtail (female connector with the 12ga purple/purple-white wires) from the big harness hangin right next to the pedal cluster. Yes it would save damage should a brain fart happen in the "right" situation. But my other car and pickup have stick shifts and it's just a natural thing for me to wiggle the shifter in Neutral and engage the clutch every time before touching the key. No one else in the house to drive, and if I eat out, I don't go to places with valet parking (I'm more of a McDonald's guy ). But I do listen though, and I could be talked into it. Especially if it has to be installed with the Pedal Bracket OUT of the car!
I am a sucker for keeping everything functional. If it is not too big of a pain, I try to keep it. The switch and linkage is fairly cheap. The 2 crimp connectors is the only other thing needed. Easy to do before putting the pedal box in, but impossible to do it later.
Good luck with the reinstall. 100% worst part of the swap.
Thanks much. I gotchya on that original aspect. I too love originality, especially the exterior look, and disdain mods obvious to the eye. Only when the key turns on, engine sounds, and the car moves do I want an obvious difference in OEM or stock. Somewhat covert, ya know?
Removed the Brake Booster.
Now the Pedal Bracket can move. However, it's tucked under the largest yet under-the-dash Bracket (arrows).
This Bracket is BIG, sitting above the Instruments.
And the bolts securing it in place are obscured by the Gauges.
My question now is: Is there a trick to remove the Pedal Bracket without having to remove/loosen this big bracket? Please say ya got one.
IFWIW when I did mine I removed the drivers seat, the steering column, and the instrument cluster and I don’t recall it being all that difficult. Keep plugging away at it. It’s definitely worth it in the end.
Same here. My project was to install a Hydrobeast, I did already have a clutch assembly. I try to do everthing myself. I had to give up on part of this job. I had my much younger and much smaller grandson for some of the tight relatively inaccessible part of the job. You've heard about jobs that take two men and a boy, well this was one man and a boy!
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I've easily taken pretty much all apart and re-assembled all the stuff on the interior part of the firewall, on two cars. Plus a few partial jobs. It takes a relative long time and is tedious. On the assembly liine, all of this work must have been done in a relativey very short time. Only thing I can figure is that if the engine compartment is empty, the windshield is out, the horizontal dashboard, vertical dashs, steering column are out, you can stand on the engine side of the firewall and do all this assembly quickly. .
Auto to 4-Speed Conversion Puzzle
You know what I'm up against Lars. But I got it covered!
