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It's too bad that you are unable to check the pinion clearance. That would tell you a lot. I wouldn't shim just one side. You want the mounting block flush with the engine. I recently installed the same starter in my car. I did need to remove the shim that set the pinion depth. However the pinion clearance was a bit on the loose side and mine was making a grinding sound also. After about 20 starts the grinding sound pretty much went away.
Edit: keep in mind that starter has a 6 to 1 metal gear reduction which is noisy in it self.
Last edited by Fly skids up!; Nov 5, 2021 at 12:24 PM.
Here is a crazy idea... NAPA cast iron nose cone stock replacement. RAY 2464794 is part number. $62 plus core. Got a 10% discount when they were on sale.
The 168 tooth starters with aluminum nose cones are for automatic transmissions. The 168 tooth starters with cast iron nose cones are for manual transmissions. The aluminum cone 168 tooth starter will not work for the manual transmission so you must get the iron nose version.
All 153 tooth starters have aluminum nose cones and work for both manual and automatic transmissions.
Do some research on how to properly shim your starter.
Powermaster probably has instructions on their website.
It is very common to shim a starter to the block.
If its grinding you may need to shim the outer bolt which pulls the gears away from the flywheel teeth.
If it makes a twang or ringing sound it needs to get better engagement and you'll need to shim the inner bolt.
I may have it backwards so double check.
You can purchase starter shim stock at any auto parts store.
Do not continue to spin the starter until you get it right.
You're either grinding up the starter gear or the teeth on the flywheel.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Nov 5, 2021 at 07:21 PM.
I gave up on the powermaster. No matter what changes I made it wouldn't stop grinding. I installed this starter below and added one 1/32" shim and all is good.