the ujoints bind at extreme angles
Halfshafts Binding
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 18
Likes: 6
From: Morristown Tn
Halfshafts Binding
Ok so here is the background. Prior to dissembling everything rotated and drove fine. U-Joints on half shafts were new, trailing arms were new (less than 20 miles on them).
Now the gouge. Disassembled rear end during frame off restoration. Put new bearings and shims in differential.
Differential is shimmed to specs
Differential rotates freely
Rear hubs rotate freely.
Halfshafts connected to differential everything rotates freely.
Halfshafts connected to rear hubs everything rotates freely
Connect everything together and i get about 3/4 tp 4/5 rotation before binding.
Tried each side one at a time and no difference, still binds.
Binding appears to be coming from TA.
I’m going to swap L /R halfshafts to see if that changes anything, I wouldn’t think it would.
so looking for some advice since this makes no sense to me. Like i said previously everything worked fine prior to removal.
Thanks in advance.
Now the gouge. Disassembled rear end during frame off restoration. Put new bearings and shims in differential.
Differential is shimmed to specs
Differential rotates freely
Rear hubs rotate freely.
Halfshafts connected to differential everything rotates freely.
Halfshafts connected to rear hubs everything rotates freely
Connect everything together and i get about 3/4 tp 4/5 rotation before binding.
Tried each side one at a time and no difference, still binds.
Binding appears to be coming from TA.
I’m going to swap L /R halfshafts to see if that changes anything, I wouldn’t think it would.
so looking for some advice since this makes no sense to me. Like i said previously everything worked fine prior to removal.
Thanks in advance.
Team Owner
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 18
Likes: 6
From: Morristown Tn
Ok, that sounds logical, didn’t think it was that extreme of an angle, but could be. I donr have a chassis on it yet so cant unload without raising frame. I’ll just plug on with assembly and assume all is good. Thanks
Race Director
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I think you are good to go.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
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From: US-PNW
On a fully assembled car, with properly set spring and suspension, the half-shafts are very close to horizontal. You'll have to mimic this alignment to judge whether you have a binding issue or not.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Virginia
Perhaps it wouldn't be too much effort to disconnect the rear spring, align the trailing arms with jackstands, and try again?
While the spring is disconnected, you could upgrade to a composite spring, if you haven't already. VanSteel is making them again, finally.
While the spring is disconnected, you could upgrade to a composite spring, if you haven't already. VanSteel is making them again, finally.
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Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,757
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From: Fairfax Virginia
I had a local Chevy dealer "rebuild" my Differential and when they did they changed some of the old hardware. One of things they changed were the bolts at the ends of the rear spring. They used shorter bolts than what had been on the Corvette and in the end it looked jacked up a little. I drove the Corvette for a while and heard the half shafts binding a bit. I took it to two different Corvette shops and they both drew a blank on the problem.
At Corvettes@Carlisle I met a gentleman from VBP and as I told him my story he laughed and said "I can fix that for you for $20". He handed me a ($20) set of longer bolts to go through the rear spring and that lowered the rear and stopped the binding for ever.
My problem started at a Chevrolet Dealer and was caused by a Corvette technician. I spent a lot of money trying to solve that simple issue. I hope your issue is as simple to fix as mine was.
Best Regards,
Chris
At Corvettes@Carlisle I met a gentleman from VBP and as I told him my story he laughed and said "I can fix that for you for $20". He handed me a ($20) set of longer bolts to go through the rear spring and that lowered the rear and stopped the binding for ever.
My problem started at a Chevrolet Dealer and was caused by a Corvette technician. I spent a lot of money trying to solve that simple issue. I hope your issue is as simple to fix as mine was.
Best Regards,
Chris
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Orange County Ca
You could raise up the trailing arms by using a come a long, ratcheting tie down strap, or similar devise, to suck it up to the frame.I wouldn't just hope everything is ok, only to have to take it all apart later.
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If you do the ratchet straps just remember when you unload the strap that spring will want to return to full arch very fast. You may want to consider something you can unload slowly like a come-a-long style system but it would be hard to use in a small space
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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A come a long? Too complicated. Just use a floor jack to raise the ta one side at a time while the car is on the jack stands. The floor jack is only supporting the weight of the ta assembly.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
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From: US-PNW
I believe the OP has an assembled chassis with no body on it. Jacking will likely lift up the entire assembly and not just the trailing arm -- that's why the suggestions of ratchet straps and come alongs.
Last edited by barkingrats; Oct 26, 2021 at 09:58 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Orange County Ca
Good idea, springs can be really dangerous!
Last edited by Sayfoo; Oct 27, 2021 at 04:40 PM.
Race Director
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From: South Western Ontario
It's two bolts on the spring. Lift it up and put a block under each arm so the wheels are not on the ground. Support the frame with the jack under the center of the spring and take out the spring bolts then lower the frame until the half shafts are level. See how it turns.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Apple Valley, MN
I just put a rubber hand sanding block on top of my hydraulic jack and come in as close to parallel as possible and at the farthest outboard point on the spring. Did it with no engine, transmission or body. Piece of cake and minimal risk to damaging/losing (human) body parts. The rubber block’s contour and material keeps the spring from slipping.