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I am about to sandblast and rebuild the stock front UCA and LCAs. Before i do that, does anyone know of a reasonably priced upgrade that can improve handling? I don't want expensive, just something that improves handling a bit over stock. I see there are arms with small adjustments to geometry for sale. Does anyone have experience with them?
Nothing in the A-Arms will improve handling short of the tubular ones being lighter.......
The improvement is in the the alignment specs and getting there which is explained above.
The biggest handling improvements come from premium shocks and urethane sway bar bushing/mounts.......the #550 springs as mentioned.
Nothing in the A-Arms will improve handling short of the tubular ones being lighter.......
The improvement is in the the alignment specs and getting there which is explained above.
The biggest handling improvements come from premium shocks and urethane sway bar bushing/mounts.......the #550 springs as mentioned.
Jebby
Agree w/ above, and the weight savings are pretty negligible.
I slotted the upper A arm mounting holes which enabled me to get 5 deg of caster although others have got 7? This mod makes the steering track better in a straight line and helps to minimize the twitchiness C3's often have. As above making sure you have all bushings in good order and decent spring/shock combo. Less turns lock to lock in the steering would be nice and can be achieved with a Borgeson or R&P conversion.
You need to ensure the rear wheel alinement is correct as this can significantly affect the steering/cornering.
If you don't want expensive than stick with stock, as others have pointed out improvement is in the the alignment specs. Also, I'm not a fan of Poly bushings for control arms, I stick with OEM rubber.
Premium shocks and tires will be the most expensive parts. 550 springs, spreader bar, anti-sway bar and caster adjustment as above will not make you car handle a little better; it will handle MUCH better. You are going to love it so much you’ll go out of your way to drive roads with tight, winding curves.
[QUOTE=gkull;1604222829]Modded A-Arm cross bars to get up to @ 7 degrees of Castor. Very easy to machine. This was given to me on how to do mine.QUOTE].
To: gkull , Do you know if this can be done to original cross bars? I’m thinking likely can, just wondering if ya knew for sure,,,, thanks,,teddy.
Thanks for all the advice. This car wont be driven much, but I would like somewhat better handling for fun driving. So based on the above posts I am trying to decide if I can just use the offset cross bars with stock rubber bushings for increased caster (I know rubber may compress vs the aluminum bushings, but it will only be driven a little and on the street/highway). After that I would add 550 springs, shocks, heavier sway bar and stop there on the front end. I wonder how much I would notice/miss using stock rubber vs Del a Lum bushings after that.
After that I plan of working on the rear. At that point I plan on adding the pivoting trailing arms from GW and I already have a composite spring installed.
Dose this seem to be a good approach? I'm trying to keep the cost vs performance in mind which is why I am not thinking of bushings all around the front end control arms. They actually seem quite expensive when I have to weld and buy two sets.
The things you suggest would make the most difference.
If you are sticking with stock 15 inch wheels and street only driving you will be fine and it will feel great!
Bigger wheels (17/18) and modern high performance tires would really take the handling up another notch or two. And then you could feel how the poly bushings would add to that.
Modded A-Arm cross bars to get up to @ 7 degrees of Castor. Very easy to machine. This was given to me on how to do mine.QUOTE].
To: gkull , Do you know if this can be done to original cross bars? I’m thinking likely can, just wondering if ya knew for sure,,,, thanks,,teddy.
Yes, I machined mine like my above post. In the diagram shown in the red cross stitch you have to machine the width away to be able to install alignment shims. With the pure stock A-arm cross bar about 4.75 is the max castor, but you are very close to not having not much thread to ensure tightening that will hold. Decreasing the width gives you more threads.
As to quicker steering in the above post.......... Maybe for auto-cross you might want quicker steering, but as speed increases you want way less! In years past you could buy a shorter Pitman arm to make the steering geared down and chevy sold two different ratio steering boxes. I was more interested in high speed steering. Gary R rebuilt mine.
Yes, I machined mine like my above post. In the diagram shown in the red cross stitch you have to machine the width away to be able to install alignment shims. With the pure stock A-arm cross bar about 4.75 is the max castor, but you are very close to not having not much thread to ensure tightening that will hold. Decreasing the width gives you more threads.
Ok, I understand that, good to note📝 .
Thank you very much Sir......👈
Front suspension improvements
