When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Have a 1970 Corvette, manual transmission.I’m considering replacing the differential goal support bracket and snubber bushings.
what is the safe procedure for doing so? I have ramps and jack stands that I can use to raise the car. Can I use either? What are the steps in removing the differential support bracket?
The 70 bracket should have 1/4 steel plated welded over the 2 bolt holes, unless it is damaged that is the best one to use. They were used from 69-79.
Once you remove the bolt through the snubber the rear spring will probably rock the diff back and upward a little. It might be easier to unload the spring first, then replace the snubber which is a 2 piece bushing and should have a steel sleeve in it. If the rubber is deteriorated look for a pinion seal leaking oil on to it over time.
Thanks,
I wasn't sure if the recommendation was to release the tension on the spring. The shop manual says to put a 1/2" block between the top of the differential and the storage compartment to keep it from shifting, and doesn't say anything about the Spring tension or releasing it.
The car is sitting on ramps, so I wasn't planning on using jack stands.
Also the bracket looks to be in good shape, but I was planning on taking the two side bolts out and dropping the bracket completely and refinishing it before installing the new rubber bushings
I had my front diff bracket off. The diff didn't shift on it's own. I could move it a few inches with a big bar. In fact I actually drove it a bit before I knew the bracket became unhooked. I had to replace the crossmember hold down bracket. You can buy them online. It was easy to cut off and weld the new one on. Make sure you install the diff bracket bolts, bracket, snubbers correctly and torq spec. Easy peasy.
FYI Look at those bolts. They are the same as the trailing arm pivot bolts! Last time I bought repro trailing arm bolts, I didn't like them because the threaded portion of the bolts caused the treaded portion to "bite" into the frame. The trailing arm bolts function as pins and so the contact with the frame should be via the smooth surface of a pin shaft. On my 68 I've removed those bolts to use as replacement trailing arm pivot bolts. Any bolt can be used for the differenctial torque bracket shown in the photo.