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Took my 68 427 apart today and have three wiped lifters, one has a hole in it.
I’m going to change from my solid lifters to a hydraulic roller.
questions:
Does anybody know if there’s anything I need to do to the block as far as oiling the lifter valley that is different or may have been setup for solids? It’s been 21 years since this was built…
ive heard of blocking off oilers to re-direct more to the mains (is this even a thing?) maybe that’s why my lifters look like lifesavers
Also I currently have a windage tray above the cam and under the intake, do I need this thing? or should I even use it for a hydraulic roller?
I did a set of hydraulic rollers on my LS5 last time around and used one of the trays in the valley as an attempt to keep some of the oil off the underside of the pancake intake manifold
Do you have the machined flat at front can bearing with 2 1/4-20 machined threads. They hold the cam down on ZZ502 and 454HO type roller cams. Get good lifters. Used Cranes or Howard’s from a bracket racer are preferable to new eBay roller lifters.
Have the machine shop closely check the lifter bores to ensure they are square & true to camshaft. Also ensure lifter bores are not worn out/damaged/requiring bushings. FWIW, sometimes they aren't true & square when new.
Have the machinist check galleys for oil "restrictors." Hydraulic lifters do Not like restrictors. They're typically screwed into oil galleys at Rear face of block; adjacent to camshaft freeze plug/cup.
Last edited by ebbnflow; Nov 21, 2021 at 10:09 PM.
You do not need oil restrictors for a hydraulic roller setup. The restrictors are for race engines that run a HV pump and very high sustained RPM's.
There are no other mods needed for your conversion......
Remove the oil pan and clean everything as good as possible......remove the oil pump plate and inspect for any garbage that may have been sucked up into it after the lobe failure.
The pieces of lifter that are ground off generally fall into the pan......the oil pump gets the worst of it......then the oil goes straight to the filter, which catches all of the larger particles that make it though the pump.
Pull a main cap and rod cap to inspect the bearings......if ti looks good, put it back together and have a party.
You are changing the valve springs correct?
I just want to add that the pan in the Valley is a "Valley Pan" and not a windage tray.......windage tray is below the crank in the oil pan.
It does not hurt to leave it in there and it will potentially keep the intake cooler.....but it may not work with tall retro fit hydraulic roller lifters.
The GM valley shield I showed there does clear the rollers (comp-cams) I used without issues as it's not really deep into the valley. I would imagine it would also clear most others unless they are extra tall or something
M
Windage tray / new cam time
