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You have a mess there that could have been much worse!
I see so many things wrong already I would not try repairing any of that engine or starter wiring harness...
Sorry, that's my opinion...
I see NO fusible links at starter solenoid battery lug or dead short protection at all!
I think there is another wire that was also removed or bypassed around that 4 wire connector in 1st photo and someone ran a single new wire to solenoid battery lug.
If you need help with selecting the correct engine harness, and starter harness WITH A/C I can help in selecting the correct harnesses you need.
I believe your car is a late build 1977 with A/C but needs to be confirmed.
That sounds great and I took it to someone once to get a new distributor installed and he brought up the wiring when I didn’t know much about the car but I know a little more about the car so if you could help me out with which harnesses to get that would be great I am pretty sure it is a late c3 and it does have the A/C.
That sounds great and I took it to someone once to get a new distributor installed and he brought up the wiring when I didn’t know much about the car but I know a little more about the car so if you could help me out with which harnesses to get that would be great I am pretty sure it is a late c3 and it does have the A/C.
I would take that to a Corvette shop! I looked at that harness covering (spiral wrap) and you should pull that back to see if they or you can grab some slack and if stranded wire splice and solder and shrink tube. As far as what is not fused properly that is going to be a time consuming part , and your fuse block must be checked for proper type and amperage. So unless you are skilled run do not walk and get a quote from a Corvette shop.
The battery on my 77 died and i went to jump it when a cloud of smoke came pouring out of my hood and there’s a couple wires that are melted can anyone help me out on how to fix this.
Also maybe more background on "went to jump it" how exactly? A lot have asked if you miswired the jumpers but you likely wouldn't have gotten that far if it was battery to battery. (and you would have had a story about what happened to the other side)
What caused you to need a jump? Previous work, i.e., current state may not even be related to the jump or more like it started last time moths ago and the battery was dead? Did the smoke start right after jumper connection or you trying to start it?
Having made a jumper cable mismatch myself on a much newer but still vintage car, the aftermath was not like this. but a careful multimeter check between the fuse block and the ignition parts should get you the needed information.
I have a painless wiring harness I used on my car but I installed an inline fuse close to the starter on the power wire in question here to prevent this.
can you help me figure out how to do this i just installed the new harness and would like to prevent this from happening again.
Is it possible to get a photo of this area on your car, Starter...
I'm looking for any signs of burnt fusible links.
The wires just after those 2 white plastic capsules are the fuse link wires.
A early build there should be 1, a late build there will be 2 like my photo shows.
From your first photo it almost looks like a repair was made to the large RED wire bypassing that 4 wire connector.
Hey I messed up again and blew the fusible link on a new starter extension. Is there anyway I can fix it or do i need a new one.
Do yourself a favor and put a battery terminal main fuse. It will kill power right at the battery if it shorts. They are like $30-50 on Amazon by blue sea. Size the fuse appropriately for the starter with a DC pass through meter. I measured 267 max amps with a LS starter which is essentially a small gear reduction starter stock. Min was 80 amps so figure 150ish amps running after the initial spike. I would size a 200-250 amp.
Do yourself a favor and put a battery terminal main fuse. It will kill power right at the battery if it shorts. They are like $30-50 on Amazon by blue sea. Size the fuse appropriately for the starter with a DC pass through meter. I measured 267 max amps with a LS starter which is essentially a small gear reduction starter stock. Min was 80 amps so figure 150ish amps running after the initial spike. I would size a 200-250 amp.
no, those are maxi fuse and don’t go up high enough or come in the right wire gauge thickness. The blue sea goes right on the battery so it takes up no real space and you don’t have to mod anything. Replacement fuses are relatively cheap and can put spares anywhere.
no, those are maxi fuse and don’t go up high enough or come in the right wire gauge thickness. The blue sea goes right on the battery so it takes up no real space and you don’t have to mod anything. Replacement fuses are relatively cheap and can put spares anywhere.
Exactly....However that small gauge wire on the maxi fuse would act like a fusible link!!!!
I have several Blue Sea terminals on my car- works great!
For at the battery fuse size? I have seen/heard from real world use- 225A fuse is the size to use.
