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Within a year, I am now on to my fourth leaking reman caliper and only one of those I drove on! My passenger caliper sprung a leak so I figured I'd better do both but my driver side is now an albatross around my neck. First two re-mans were AC Delco Gold from Rock Auto. Each leaked before I even drove the car. Gave up on those and got a reman from Auto Zone. That lasted until just this weekend when I had to remove the caliper to fix something else. I was sliding the caliper on the rotor with the pads in place when I heard a squish and had brake fluid squirting out. I used Autozone's warranty and got a replacement. However, this caliper is leaking even before I had a chance to bleed it!
Could I be destroying the lip seals when I install the pads? Are they really that fragile? I even bought the special tool to hold back the pistons but I figured installing the caliper/pads together would be safer to keep the pistons from sticking at an angle. Or could it be that all the reman calipers are really that bad?
Is going o-ring the answer here? If that's the answer should I rebuild what I have or is best to just to pay the big bucks and buy new calipers?
I’ve tried rebuilding and multiple remans over the years. They all ended up leaking at some point. I gave up and went with Wilwoods. Leaky brakes are now a distant memory.
I would say just bad luck. I would rebuild them yourself. Very easy to do. I recently rebuild my calipers with o ring type seals. So far so good but I've haven't had them long enough to say that o rings is better than lip seals.
my advice..
go oring calipers..
do you still have original delco calipers? Trade them in for same.. 1 year warranty…not fool proof but best shot..
don’t forget to measure caliper runout..
all of my lip seal calipers i rebuilt leaked, one i rebuilt o rings and pistons all good…
fronts sent in exchange rebuilt and both leaked replaced under 1 year warranty so far ok..
it sure is a great pedal feel when there are no leaks..in fact as good as any modern car minus abs.
If you have delco and good stainless liners, get the o ring kits usa made..you will do a better rebuilding job imo
Some caliper matching faces are NOT flat...causing small o-rings to leak between caliper halves.
Lip seals can be I stalled backwards at the reman shop.
Seats that bleed screws seal against may be pitted which would prevent them from sealing g.
Find where the caliper is ACTUALLY leaking...take some pics....post 'em.
I know you're into this for some money already, but you should consider rebuilding a set of original calipers. It's not hard to do. I use a lip seal kit. I know there are some opinions on this, but the best information I have is that O-ring kits are good for cars that spend a lot of time sitting. When I get the lip seal on the piston, I compress it until the seal touches the bore. Then I apply gentle pressure on the piston while I tuck the seal into the bore with a small screw driver or pick. If you don't tuck the lip seal in, it will leak. I've rebuilt three sets of calipers, and none have leaked. I don't think reman houses take the time to do it properly. Just my two cents. Good luck.
Last edited by MajD; Dec 6, 2021 at 10:43 PM.
Reason: Added information
Some caliper matching faces are NOT flat...causing small o-rings to leak between caliper halves.
Lip seals can be I stalled backwards at the reman shop.
Seats that bleed screws seal against may be pitted which would prevent them from sealing g.
Find where the caliper is ACTUALLY leaking...take some pics....post 'em.
It's leaking from the piston. I can hear the fluid squishing out from the offending piston when I put back pressure on the brake pad.
I've had great luck with Lonestar O-ring rebuilt calipers, and also with DIY rebuilds using O-ring kits from CSSB Inc. All were original Delco cores with stainless sleeves.
There are reasons to use lip seals instead of O-rings. I've read the background, and went with O-rings on my cars. YMMV.
I've had great luck with Lonestar O-ring rebuilt calipers, and also with DIY rebuilds using O-ring kits from CSSB Inc. All were original Delco cores with stainless sleeves.
There are reasons to use lip seals instead of O-rings. I've read the background, and went with O-rings on my cars. YMMV.
Yep...my local O'Relley's carries Lone Star Vette calipers and it is a wonderful thing......
brushmor -- Are you pressure bleeding the brake system? You can over pressurize the system and blow brake fluid out past the lips seals. Don't ask me how I know.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by '73and'75
brushmor -- Are you pressure bleeding the brake system? You can over pressurize the system and blow brake fluid out past the lips seals. Don't ask me how I know.
I will, lol. Anyway, you can't over pressurize the brake system. Leaking past the lip seals could be caused by pitted pistons, worn/faulty seals, bore worn, etc. I still have the lip seals on my ss sleeved rebuilt D-M's. They don't leak.
holy cow, Delco halves too? must be a TX thing with lone star and local supply.. everything here and surrounding stores all chinesium Oreillys
I was surprised as you are......I went up there to get a RR for the 66' and they pulled it off the shelf.....brought it up and it was a Lone Star box.....they have had them the last ten years now....
brushmor -- Are you pressure bleeding the brake system? You can over pressurize the system and blow brake fluid out past the lips seals. Don't ask me how I know.
What is the pressure are you using with your pressure bleeder? I used 20 PSI which I got from the shop manual.
Maybe there is an issue with the installation. It is imperative to NOT let the pistons/seals pop out of the calipers. If there is any pressure to the caliper before it is installed over the disc they can dislodge. They can also dislodge because of the spring pressure behind the pistons. When I rebuilt original non stainless calipers I honed all the bores to a shiny surface.
When I rebuilt original non stainless calipers I honed all the bores to a shiny surface.
This is probably THE most important part of a rebuild. I learned this from a C3 brake guru that started his business 20+ years ago doing JUST corvette brakes.
The bores have to be PRISTINE. No pits, ridges, scratches, nothing.