I was reading about the Sniper and wanted to know if it's best to change the intake to a single plane or leave the duel plane spread bore. I have a Performer intake now and just trying to figure out what it would cost to get the highest performance and still clear the hood.

This is for a '72 SBC.

Thanks
Keith

 

I am doing the same thing, the guys at efipro say to match the intake to your engine as you would for any build, I currently have an eps on it but also have a Torker 2. I have seen a lot of people say that a single plane works better, I am not sure which one I will use.
As you said height is the bigger issue, using a drop base ( with the carb ) puts the air cleaner lid close to the carb inlet and I can’t help but think that is not the best for performance. I bought a k&n type filter lid but it is way to tall, can’t come close to closing the hood with it. I will have to wait for the unit to get here and see what works for the best fit. I have a stock hood on a 70, small block also.

 

You can use the 2101 Performer but mill the center divider down like an RPM Air Gap is........
But if you have the money.....bolt a Team G on it....the 7530....
EFI, unlike a carb....does not need a dual plane intake. Dual Plane intake are designed to signal the carb to pull fuel with more response....EFI does not need this. But, when you leave the divider in.....the MAP only gets vacuum from one bore.....on a manifold with two distinct sides.....and it can confuse the tuning......milling the divider does away with that. When you remove it, it is also a good time to block the heat riser port with a 1204 Fel Pro gasket.....

Jebby

 

Team G intake. I am able to use a 4" tall air cleaner under the stock '76 hood with a Holley 750 Street HP.

 

I us a 2 inch tall open k&n with a filter top. I use the Weiand Team G single plane. One of the best lower rpm single planes

 

I have an Edlebrock RPM Performer Air Gap Intake manifold on my C3's 427 and it works fine with my Holley Stealth Sniper EFI system. I triple checked and found that there would be little to no interference due to the milled down center section inside the intake manifold. It has worked well in my application so I would hope it would in others systems as well. The carburetor used on the L88's was a Holley so the base plate is made for the Holley Shape which works well for me since my Holley Stealth Sniper looks just like a Holley Dominator. The base plate and air filtration system work fine with my Air Gap Intake manifold. Boiled fuel is History with the Air Gap on my engine, the Sniper means it will start when I ask it too.

The height is the big issue for me but I expected it to fit below the opening in the Factory L88 Hood. The L88 uses a deep base plate that has a seal on it that seals to the hood when closed. This allows only the cooler outside air to enter the Combustion process. It is an awesome Cold air Intake system that really helps a high-compression big block.

The company I bought the system from assured me before the purchase that they have used their system on the Air Gap intakes with great success. They gave me 2 years of set-up help by a Tech who is Tier 3 rated by Holley, the after sales helps has been second to none. Their name is EFISYSTEMPRO and they are located in Florida and they have the best darn support you can get with these semi-complicated "Self-learning" Fuel Injection systems. They also offer great prices along with their world class support. It is NOT that Hard to install a EFI system and you can go back to your carburetor any time you want. I have done nothing permanent to my C3 Big Block, Four speed Corvette. Everything that comes off gets bagged, tagged and stored. I took off things like the factory T.I. Ignition system along with it's distributor, coil and controller box and had them rebuilt and stored away.

 

Is milling down the center divider something I can do, or do I need to have a machine shop do it.? Is there an advantage to a Sniper that is not a spread bore, as far as performance goes? I would hate to complete this job and later find out I left some HP on the table by not making small changes, like intake and Sniper model.

Thanks,
Keith

 

You asked what the best intake is. Team G may not be the best but for an efi system, its better than any dual plane such as an rpm air gap for reasons already noted by jebby.

 

The spread bore Sniper is specifically for spread bore intakes on vintage musclecars when owners do not want to mess with changing out the manifold. Spread bore is advantageous on a carb application to build a shitload of velocity through the venturi past the booster for instant throttle response......on EFI.....no booster. No need to "draw" anything......so no benefit at all.
Don't worry about horsepower......worry about the complete setup......the best part of the Sniper is the ignition control and make sure you get the ignition with it......it takes you right into the 21st century.....and it works.
You need a machine shop the mill the divider......the setup takes longer than the actual milling. You could do it with hand grinders but it will look ugly. The 7530 Team G is a small runner manifold that actually flows pretty well......the small runners and small plenum build good velocity.....it is a fairly short intake....has divorced water crossover up front.....and "air gap" style runners.....you can plumb vacuum lines and other unsighties under it......it is just one of my faves.....
The Victor Jr. is actually a better design but they require too much work toward the port entrance to port match....very tiny. They used to offer a Victor Jr. CNC.....but Helen Keller programmed the CNC for it...pretty terrible.
If you are rich...the Wilson Super Victor is the end all do all......this intake will kick anythings *** short of a Tunnel Ram.......but at $1000.....nah. I want one bad though. Lol.


Jebby

 

If you don't wanna mill/cut the intake and have hood room for it, then you could use an open spacer also.

Some dual plane notches are rough sharp mill cut and others have nice cast rounded edges and aren't a straight down notch. A machine shop doesn't need to make the cut, you just need basic measurements if you wanna match the size on common intakes that come with a cut-out notch. For example my SHP intake was cast and pretty much the same size as the others that came with a notch but I have cut some myself. I like to radiused the cut-out edges.

Recent dual plane intake review with comparison to other intakes I have.


How I prep my intakes

You Tube

 

Jebby,

Thanks for the information. I'm definitely thinking about the complete set up, including ignition. That is what got me thinking about the intake. I didn't want to install the complete set up and find out later that changing the intake and using a different Sniper (different than the Quadrajet replacement version) would have given me a better engine with more HP.

As for milling the intake, I feel like I would be better off getting the right intake instead of milling, but I'm also not wanting to throw money at it. So I'll keep milling in mind. I no idea what a shop would charge to do this or if I trust they would do it right (tired of being surprised by mechanics).

Thanks again, everyone!
Keith

 

This is what i run under my 1200 cfm FAST EFI TB. it is the best,,, all plastic, near zero heat in the tunnels..into my AFR competition ported 220 Heads, then out the 17/8" Kooks headers to a 3" mandrel bend with X-pipe, pipes-)

But, alas,,, they do not make it anymore,,,,,,,they had some sealing issues... on some of the units... not mine though:-)

 

Torquer 2 tarantula to fit under your hood. Mine worked great on my 327 but I had a scoop

 

For the set up you have , Any single plane intake is fine even ones cast in china. Hit up ebay for a intake and then look at MSD or Holley for ignition parts. Here is one retailer with a polished single plane intake

https://www.kmjperformance.com/i-316...tegory:1323937