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Hello all. I'm sure this question has been answered somewhere on here, but most of the wheels I have seen seem to be 18x9.5 I'm looking at some 18x9 with 5 inch backspacing will they give me a bunch of trouble with stock suspension on the rear
That wheel shouldn't be a problem. You might have to relocate the parking brake bracket to the top of the trailing arm or maybe not.
You will have to move the bracket......at least I did.....
And see if you can get a 4 3/4" backspace.....I put a 1/4" spacer on mine because the wheel tucked in too much for me....did not match the front......
If I did it again.....it would get 17" on the rear.....like the front.
You will have to move the bracket......at least I did.....
And see if you can get a 4 3/4" backspace.....I put a 1/4" spacer on mine because the wheel tucked in too much for me....did not match the front......
If I did it again.....it would get 17" on the rear.....like the front.
Jebby
I'm going with a 17x8 in the front do you think I still have the same problem?
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You can pretty much put any size of wheel on a C3 but there will be concessions. The width of the wheel can be 20" wide if you want but it will stick way outside of the wheel well. The backspace however has a limit if wheel adapters/spacers aren't used. That would be ~ 5.5" bs. Any more bs than that will cause interference with the frame/body/suspension components. Wheel diameter may be limited to 22" but 26" or larger will work if you modify ride height. But it will look grotesque, imo. Most folks in here like the 'flush with the fender lip' look. The stock wheel has a 4" bs and provides that look/fit. Some folks don't mind the old school look where the wheel/tire sticks out past the fender lip. It all comes down to the look you want or the width of tire you want or whatever. But there maybe concessions to achieve that look.
17x8 will fit fine on the front, you can even go 18x10 on the rear
This is not a bad idea.....I would have to look at the numbers but an 18x10 with a 5" B/S could bring the outside wheel lip out further and look better IMHO......
I am REAL picky about offset and stance...wheel sizes...etc.......I kicked my rear wheels out 1/4" and I noticed it.....
When wheels are tucked in too far in the back.....it looks dorky....kind of a "wagon train" look......SN95 Mustangs are notorious for wheel shops getting the offset wrong.....and they look ridiculous.....
I really want to go to a 16" or 17" in the rear to have better Drag Radial options.......a 16" would be ideal......nice fat sidewall to absorb shock.
This is not a bad idea.....I would have to look at the numbers but an 18x10 with a 5" B/S could bring the outside wheel lip out further and look better IMHO......
I am REAL picky about offset and stance...wheel sizes...etc.......I kicked my rear wheels out 1/4" and I noticed it.....
When wheels are tucked in too far in the back.....it looks dorky....kind of a "wagon train" look......SN95 Mustangs are notorious for wheel shops getting the offset wrong.....and they look ridiculous.....
I really want to go to a 16" or 17" in the rear to have better Drag Radial options.......a 16" would be ideal......nice fat sidewall to absorb shock.
Jebby
I agree with you.
I think many are running 18x10 5.5 BS if I'm not mistaken, no spacers.
I have 18x10 on the rear with 5.75" backspace. 305 tires come right to the outside edge of stock wheel flare, but do not stick out. I do not use spacers. I do not have offset trailing arms, but a fair bit of modification was needed. Ebrake bracket moved, spring shortened, sway bar modified, notched the frame in a couple places.
I'll be running 17"x 8" wheels with 4" backspacing on all four corners.
After I purchased my wheels, I considered going with 17" x 9" wheels or even to a 17" x 9.5" wheels with 5" or 5.5" backspacing in the rear for better traction.
When I talked with the wheel manufacturer about ordering the wider rear wheels he suggested against me spending the additional money.
His reason was that it was better for the wheel bearings to have the back spacing of the wheel centered over the bearings, and that the 1" to 1.5" wider tire would not provide any additional traction over staying with the 8" wheels and buying better tires.
He did say that If I really needed the additional traction and was planning to track my car, he would suggest going to a minimum 10"-12" width rear wheels and modifying the suspension and flaring the wheel wells.
I am running 18" x 9" with 5" backspace on the rear of my '68. I wanted to maintain the stock outside of rear wheel to the inner fender lip clearance and OEM rear track. The limitation (as I see it - and had experience of) is the overall diameter and width low profile tyres creating clearance issues with the frame (having a far 'squarer' section than a stock fitment). I am using a 285/40/18 tyre on the 9" rim. The tyre has an overall diameter of just over 27" (close to OEM tyre diameter). I would perhaps have been wiser to have used a 275 section tyre for a little more frame clearance as the tyre lightly 'polishes' the frame. Measured clearance is approximately 3/8" to 7/16".but I'm guessing the flexibility of the stock rubber trailing arm bushes allows some sideways movement of the trailing arm when cornering hard. I guess an alternative is thin spacers.
A while back another member posted some video he made of how much movement there was with the trailing arms and other suspension components during hard cornering.
It was amazing to watch and see how much everything moves.
A while back another member posted some video he made of how much movement there was with the trailing arms and other suspension components during hard cornering.
It was amazing to watch and see how much everything moves.
I'm guessing even if the trailing arm was solidly mounted with no measured sideward play at the mounting point.......with the length of something like a fabricated and welded-up trailing arm there would be a degree of sideways flex, especially with the grip of modern wide radial rubber?