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Been running great just turned 40000 miles..
in garage thankfully as i was checking vacuum lines…started car cold when off high idle shut down.
at the tail end of cranking it made a very faint strange sound i noted…
went to fire up after vacuum test of headlights completely dead when in crank…
all lights good acts like everything normal just no crank! Terminals clean tight and 12.5 volts..
not even a click…
putting in air but was hoping someone can help me zero in issue as its a beautiful day and boy and i were going road trip!
reading manual
thank you
Do you have power through the clutch start switch?
Ignition power to switch ONLY in start position.
Wire colors MAY be different, check your service manual for starter wiring drawing.
N/O contacts on clutch switch, depress clutch pedel contacts "should close" sending power to terminal "S" at starter solenoid.
Thanks for that I already pulled the starter so it’s too late I did notice that on the solenoid all the studs nuts were loose on the starter not the wires and when I put my power probe on the starter it blew a circuit so I can’t test it that way but terminal stud S was loose and when I would move it around it would make periodic continuity so now I’m trying to get the damn thing off which it looks like it doesn’t come off I may have to get another one and see
I believe you found your problem...
If you look at the buildup of copper on the disk under the plunger spring, something was going on inside there...
The disk will usually show some wear and carbon arching and can be removed and rotated for a nice clean start to use the other side.
I bet both contacts points of the motor winding lug "M" and circuit 2 or "B" lug are both ground down significantly.
Ok..
i give up napa officially jumped the shark with me..even the old guys were d*cks at 2 locations.. @Jebbysan thanks makes sense..napa had no clue or spacer..nothing in box..
i know this has been asked many times before….but
usa mini starter that I won’t need to shim or destroy my teeth on flywheel? Or alternate solenoid?
budget not unlimited but will pay up for usa and wife just asked me what i want for Christmas
May save my front teeth too installing it..
thank you
79 l82 manual
I thank you sir..
a small artery just opened in your honor..put it on mytab please.
ordered…
now to toss my mexican solenoid echlin pos through napa’s window
You probably already have the wheels back on the ground but you could remove the "M" stud on the broken wire solenoid and install it in the Napa solenoid giving you the extra length needed.
You probably already have the wheels back on the ground but you could remove the "M" stud on the broken wire solenoid and install it in the Napa solenoid giving you the extra length needed.
lol
you read my mind..i did peak at it as i was going to reuse brown cap too..but as i was fumbling with it i ordered the canada/usa starter..
ill keep the old stuff and toss the solenoid in box for fun..
says it delivers tomorrow..i would be shocked..but if so ill have an update.
thank you again for help!
Well that sucks that you couldn't get it out for a drive today. I know you've already ordered something else, but for FWIW, an old friend of mine rebuilt my factory starter years ago, (he ran a battery and electrical repair shop for years) and it spins the tach at 400 rpm cranking. Never had a single issue since he touched it, and i've got full length headers on mine. I think he used all GM parts. Granted, I get that even GM replacement parts nowadays are possibly inferior to original parts, as opposed to equal in quality to original.
Well that sucks that you couldn't get it out for a drive today. I know you've already ordered something else, but for FWIW, an old friend of mine rebuilt my factory starter years ago, (he ran a battery and electrical repair shop for years) and it spins the tach at 400 rpm cranking. Never had a single issue since he touched it, and i've got full length headers on mine. I think he used all GM parts. Granted, I get that even GM replacement parts nowadays are possibly inferior to original parts, as opposed to equal in quality to original.
totally agree with you.
my starter has never left me stranded but (at least i hope its the solenoid) the solenoid almost did. I even spent 2 dollars for a new bushing here https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-starting.html
My starter is gm ac delco remanufactured so between 0 and 28000 miles someone replaced it and is not original.
ac delco branded solenoids are unobtainium, let alone right stud size.
i have to believe better materials magnets and Japanese style starter, saving my teeth, and quite frankly replacing with Canada USA made part on such a critical component should increase reliability. Sort of like an aluminum radiator upgrade in my eyes, I don’t look at temperature gauge anymore.
I am hoping this starter, even if my clutch linkage breaks, pulls me out of the projects of Memphis in second gear like one review said 😂
unfortunately you now bring up my head with header clearance i have now, at least on that side of the engine…
looks like delivery 24th delivery now maybe i will play with a standard solenoid and play with it to see if stud swappable as mentioned and practice my bench press. Traveling time after 24th..
So I figured why throw the old starter in box with trashed solenoid…
so….
oreillys had standard solenoid for 30 bucks!
guess what..it comes with hardware and the spacer! It is exactly as the napa one no doubt…that came woth nothing for 10 bucks more..
i was able to transfer stud as @bmotojoe suggested turning it 180..
reused asbestos gasket and brown bakeolite
cover..
rough install and starts rightup!
i now have a good spare if my mini ever goes…
i think cheap insurance for those running oem starter to ****** up one of the standard ones for 30 bucks as not many left, rockauto out of stock as well.
It appears the copper wires get pretty brittle as bending the other one not broke snapped right off.
So I figured why throw the old starter in box with trashed solenoid…
so….
oreillys had standard solenoid for 30 bucks!
guess what..it comes with hardware and the spacer! It is exactly as the napa one no doubt…that came woth nothing for 10 bucks more..
i was able to transfer stud as @bmotojoe suggested turning it 180..
reused asbestos gasket and brown bakeolite
cover..
rough install and starts rightup!
i now have a good spare if my mini ever goes…
i think cheap insurance for those running oem starter to ****** up one of the standard ones for 30 bucks as not many left, rockauto out of stock as well. It appears the copper wires get pretty brittle as bending the other one not broke snapped right off.
Yep, those internal wires at both the "S" terminal and "BAT" terminal are under full load until engine starts.
It is only then the PULL-IN winding's drop out and the drive shiftier and plunger return to it's home position opening solenoid contacts.
That's why a #12 gauge wire is used on the "S" circuit.
Good find in the Standard Solenoid
Well problems…
number one, no way are you checking end play..impossible as screwdriver cannot grab to pull out..so hope its right…
number 2..the wires are worse than oem? Do i havethe wrong one? Positive cable will not reach..and if it did is 90 degree?
thoughts help?
There is also no knurle on the bolts like the summit video says is required?
No start 79
