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I moved the plate over one position as two hits oil pan.
the positive cable will not twist enough and then i assume i have to bend that tang so it doesn’t short out?
it looks close but will not twist enough?
Well the good news is the boy and i had a great 1.5 hour drive..the Christmas lights through the t tops in the city is impressive!
the bad news is i call uncle on the new starter..love the size, never got to hear it..
- no way was i hacking and tensioning that power wire as it warns not to over tighten post as well. I started to bend tang and was mangling it so i stopped. Not risking damaging that positive cable.
- disappointed that the adjustment holes were not all drilled out either. Did not inspire confidence.
- the bolts were not knurled which summit was very clear to be sure they are used.
- very clear to measure clearance..this is a joke.. no way even without inspection cover to get gear out. No way is a screwdriver prying it out..there is nothing to grab!!!
if i could have gotten the positive cable on i would have risked the rest..why that stud isn’t more accessible is beyond me.
the oem starter works great again with solenoid and cranks 400 rpm..maybe even feels more snappy?
i bet its a great starter but did not work out for me …ymmv..its going back to summit..open for alternatives as i will have credit
looks like corvettes havethe high torque starters if you need spacers (see poc)
Merry Christmas! And thanks everyone forthe help and support!
Last edited by interpon; Dec 23, 2021 at 10:35 PM.
You did the right thing by not bending up your positive cable just to make it work.
I purchased this Remote Start Switch decades ago for other cars I have owned.
There are many different cheaper ones out there.
It works well to energize solenoid for brief moments to measure gear to flywheel/flex plate backlash.
Just make sure when you do energize gear teeth are going to align.
20-30 seconds intervals is max length of time holding button in so solenoid will not overheat.
Summit does have other manufacture Mini Starters that say USA made.
I have NO idea how good these are other's may chime in. Example: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9000
Out of interest, on the mini starter, did you try rotating starter body 180 deg, so that solenoid is at the bottom? Your cable may have reached then, that is where I normally position these type of starters. I have installed quite a few, but honestly, most of the cars I deal with have non stock wiring harness.
But I do agree with you about the mounting bolts being incorrect, they used to supply correct bolts. My last purchase, the bolts supplied were similar to what you had, there was so much slop between the starter holes and the bolt shank that it effected gear mesh clearance.
The starter needs to be clocked as stated above.
The CVR has never come with knurled bolts, nor do you need them….I have never seen a billet plate style stater like this with knurled bolts…the plate is machines to tolerance.
I flattened my positive cable with a large duckbill plier and another plier holding the cable lug crimp.
End play has never been an issue as I have never needed a shim except for this one which took a .015….I measured it engine out of the car and forgot as it was six years ago….install it with none and roll it over….if it is noisy….put a shim in it….
The 66’ in the avatar still has its CVR on it from 2005….
Here are some pics of mine:
Out of interest, on the mini starter, did you try rotating starter body 180 deg, so that solenoid is at the bottom? Your cable may have reached then, that is where I normally position these type of starters. I have installed quite a few, but honestly, most of the cars I deal with have non stock wiring harness.
But I do agree with you about the mounting bolts being incorrect, they used to supply correct bolts. My last purchase, the bolts supplied were similar to what you had, there was so much slop between the starter holes and the bolt shank that it effected gear mesh clearance.
Hope old Jebby sees this and responds.
hi, there was a sticker say this side block. You can move it around but could only move one notch or it hit oil pan.
edit,,oh see what your saying flip the whole unit over.. and solenoid on bottom..still bending cable.
Jebby is yours flipped ? It looks like mine is like yours. I just cannot bring myself to bend and stress that cable.. i know I’m a wimp if it didn’t run the length of the car i would just replace it..
the one below may fit cable like original?
Last edited by interpon; Dec 24, 2021 at 10:52 AM.
Mine is flipped, yes….
You may be happier with the Jeg’s as I understand you not wanting to bend the cable end…..
There is the dbelectronics unit that many here use….I have only installed one on a Ford of all things….worked well….
I just stick with the CVR as I have used so many for so long…
