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So I looked at a few old threads on this but they didn't appear to have resolutions and I didn't want to bring back a post from the dead.
If you have a 1968 but you have a long hood, so the wiper cowl is gone. Can you bolt a late model (say 1980) wiper motor and get it working with minor modifications to the wiring?
I've read to believe that the wiper has power on with key on, and that the wiper switch grounds each of the speeds. (in addition to the wiper motor body requiring a ground). Is this correct ?
I think your 1980 motor will work with one exception.
The problem I see is the motors crank from a 1980 used in your 1968.
Willcox Link:http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...k-differences/
The motors park switch was the same from 1975-1982 so the power and switching would be the same as the drawing above.
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I think your 1980 motor will work with one exception.
The problem I see is the motors crank from a 1980 used in your 1968.
Willcox Link:http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...k-differences/
The motors park switch was the same from 1975-1982 so the power and switching would be the same as the drawing above.
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The 75 and later go with a separate electric washer pump- Using a 73-74 the pump is integral.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Why do you want a later model wiper motor and the headaches of trying to rewire it? Just use the 68 one. Just bypass the cowl open switch, it unplugs and you can jumper the connection or just cut off the plug and solder the joint..... its the 2 prong T shape one that the L shaped shoe closes to the passenger side of your motor
It is my understanding the OP already had (2) 1980 wiper motors.
Again, it looks like the OP will have to find a early style crank arm to install on the later wiper motors.
It is also my understanding OP is using a long hood and the wiper cowl is gone.
If OP was interested in a functional washer pump drilling a (9/16") hole in the bottom of the washer reservoir, using a later 75-91 delco style washer pump with filter nut would be easy to do.
The wiring and fluid hose to new pump would just need to be extended.
New pump and filter nut about 30.00.
And yes, a new ground wire to wiper motor is needed.
There should be a brass 1/4" Male ground terminal already on a 1980 motor just left and below 3 wire terminal connector.
Closest good ground bolt location would be a RH side lower bell housing bolt.
Wiper motor ground terminal.
Last edited by bmotojoe; Jan 22, 2022 at 10:01 AM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
THat is all true and not worth the nighmare of trying to change something on a 68 to later model years. It snowballs and its a nightmare. JUsst buy a $100 wiper motor. Sell the 2 '80 models for $50 a pop on here and its done https://www.partsgeek.com/jvc91w9-ch...b863fb882309a6
THat is all true and not worth the nighmare of trying to change something on a 68 to later model years. It snowballs and its a nightmare. JUsst buy a $100 wiper motor. Sell the 2 '80 models for $50 a pop on here and its done https://www.partsgeek.com/jvc91w9-ch...b863fb882309a6
I would do it that way myself
A 68-72 crank arm will still be needed...
Last edited by bmotojoe; Jan 22, 2022 at 10:23 AM.
As stated above probably would be less trouble to sell the two you have and get a correct 68. There is a difference in the wiring of the 68 wiper motor.
If you do this and want to test if it is right. Without the key in. Toggle the wipers on/off as if you did it accidentally while cleaning the interior. It will start a slow drain on the battery. To stop that drain, start the car and toggle the wipers on and off again. Then shut the car off and the battery drain will be gone. '68s are fun.
Last edited by Mike Baker; Jan 22, 2022 at 06:55 PM.
As stated above probably would be less trouble to sell the two you have and get a correct 68. There is a difference in the wiring of the 68 wiper motor.
If you do this and want to test if it is right. Without the key in. Toggle the wipers on/off as if you did it accidentally while cleaning the interior. It will start a slow drain on the battery. To stop that drain, start the car and toggle the wipers on and off again. Then shut the car off and the battery drain will be gone. '68s are fun.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
If you are asking about the drain, the way I understand it, it is because the park solenoid/ relay is active until the blades park. That switch is to interrupt the ground path for the wiper motor itself to stop the blades on the windshield, but it keeps power to that relay and it will very slowly drain the battery. Even when the motor is parked I believe it will activate those solenoids to think they are not parked. I think the internal wiring was changed in 69 to combat that issue. I have a kill switch in my car to prevent any battery drain like that. I just swapped out the stock rotary switch to a toggle so I have a positive position for activated and not activated. I had issues when I was leaving a car shoe and it started to rain and turned on the wipers, the door opened but nothing happened. Of course I freaked out a bit but remembered the switch and it was moved just a few degrees which was enough to keep it from working. Another one year wonder for the 68
If you are asking about the drain, the way I understand it, it is because the park solenoid/ relay is active until the blades park. That switch is to interrupt the ground path for the wiper motor itself to stop the blades on the windshield, but it keeps power to that relay and it will very slowly drain the battery. Even when the motor is parked I believe it will activate those solenoids to think they are not parked. I think the internal wiring was changed in 69 to combat that issue. I have a kill switch in my car to prevent any battery drain like that. I just swapped out the stock rotary switch to a toggle so I have a positive position for activated and not activated. I had issues when I was leaving a car shoe and it started to rain and turned on the wipers, the door opened but nothing happened. Of course I freaked out a bit but remembered the switch and it was moved just a few degrees which was enough to keep it from working. Another one year wonder for the 68
I see. I need to look at the diagrams. I don't have a 68 FSM, need to order one. I had the car in my trailer for the past few months, pulled it back out the other day and into the shop to do the column, headlight motors, etc.
I'm not opposed to re-doing the circuits to make more sense.
I have a 1968 C3 as well and I would do as Rescue Rogers suggested and keep your Corvette all 1968. The 1968 may have several unique features but keeping them all operational is important to me. I have a 1968 style windshield wiper system and it works great. I have never had any problems with any of the parts. Changing the wiper blades the first time (30 years ago) was a bit challenging but once you know the trick it is no longer an issue but a creative trick by the GM engineers.
If you are missing the hood parts and anything related to the 1968 original wiper system then you might want to modify your system to use the 73-76 windshield wiper motor. It would probably be cheaper that way as the one year only parts used on the 1968 can get expensive as you would need the hood and windshield wiper cover.
I try and keep my 1968 the way it was built as I love the fact it is different from the rest of the C3's. This should help the future owners of my 1968 C3 as it won't be a Johnny Cash "Corvette". I would imagine that it would hold its value better if it was as close to original as possible. When I bought my 1968 not knowing much about Corvettes I was told by several people that the 1968 C3 was "less desirable" than the 1969 C3. The more I learned about the 1968 C3's the more I appreciate my 1968 Corvette.
I have a 1968 C3 as well and I would do as Rescue Rogers suggested and keep your Corvette all 1968. The 1968 may have several unique features but keeping them all operational is important to me. I have a 1968 style windshield wiper system and it works great. I have never had any problems with any of the parts. Changing the wiper blades the first time (30 years ago) was a bit challenging but once you know the trick it is no longer an issue but a creative trick by the GM engineers.
If you are missing the hood parts and anything related to the 1968 original wiper system then you might want to modify your system to use the 73-76 windshield wiper motor. It would probably be cheaper that way as the one year only parts used on the 1968 can get expensive as you would need the hood and windshield wiper cover.
I try and keep my 1968 the way it was built as I love the fact it is different from the rest of the C3's. This should help the future owners of my 1968 C3 as it won't be a Johnny Cash "Corvette". I would imagine that it would hold its value better if it was as close to original as possible. When I bought my 1968 not knowing much about Corvettes I was told by several people that the 1968 C3 was "less desirable" than the 1969 C3. The more I learned about the 1968 C3's the more I appreciate my 1968 Corvette.
I Love my 1968 Corvette Convertible and it's 427.
My car is quite modified, and I'm continuing to do so. Body modifications include the rear tail panel being all fiberglassed (no exhaust cutouts or reverse lamps), aftermarket long hood with wiper door delete. Electronic headlamp motors. Side pipe headers and exhaust (not available in 1968), aftermarket tilt colulmn, later model seats, 412" SBC (1976 400 block). Frame is a modified 1976 frame (with the rear 16" portion cut and a 1968 tail welded on). Late style wheel bearings/hubs. Some modifications to the front gril. 1978-82 radiator support and big aluminum radiator. electric fans.
I'm not really interested in "original", more of a resto-mod. I'd prefer a 69 lol but I own it so.
ok looking at that wilcox page i would think the slightly shorter but bent up a little higher 80 arm could be put in a vise and straighten out the 2 bends so that it is not high enough to hit the windshield. since it is shorter bending it straighter should not add enough length to hit anything. the wiper arm is almost as much to buy as a motor. https://www.ebay.com/itm/32379257406...8AAOSwivlcZd4C do you have an arm or two on those 2 80 motors? looks like the motors are all sold without arms. may get lucky with a used transmission.
ok looking at that wilcox page i would think the slightly shorter but bent up a little higher 80 arm could be put in a vise and straighten out the 2 bends so that it is not high enough to hit the windshield. since it is shorter bending it straighter should not add enough length to hit anything. the wiper arm is almost as much to buy as a motor. https://www.ebay.com/itm/32379257406...8AAOSwivlcZd4C do you have an arm or two on those 2 80 motors? looks like the motors are all sold without arms. may get lucky with a used transmission.
I have a 1968 wiper arm. The previous owner disconnected it from the motor and left it. The motor is long missing. I don't know why.
Wiper motor interchange
