Hi all,

To keep my engine and other parts replacement project moving I needed to run a fuel line from the mechanical fuel pump to the carb. So, I was going to run a hard line and as such bought a flaring kit. I haven’t flared tubing since I was a kid, lol. It’s like riding a bike, right!?

However, I decided to go the 6 AN flexible tubing with compression fittings route which I bought from Summit. Nice kit for a little over 50 bucks. Anyway, I watched a lot of YouTube videos and what ya’ all were saying on the forum on the best way to do this. Well. I didn’t have the right tool to use the hammer and cut method, so I used my little 3” cutoff tool along with using the duct tape over the tubing at the cut point. That cut the tubing just fine but stainless still flared out some and I couldn't get the fitting to go over it.

So, after thinking about it I decided I needed some type of tool that would keep the end closed while I was cutting it. Low and behold, their sat my new tubing fairing kit so I put it in my vice and clamped the tubing into the larges hole (1/2” I believe) and cut the tubing up against the flaring kit bracket.

You’ve got to be careful of course as you can ding the metal on the flaring bracket but as one not really experienced in doing this like many of you are, as far as I’m concerned, it’s the cat’s meow! (I know that’s a dumb expression, lol!)

The fittings on both ends of the tubing went on with no issues or any stainless fibers sticking out. Wow! Couldn’t be easier.

Here’s some pix:

 

Good idea.

 

That is a great idea!

And after 33 years of playing with airplanes, I still think is amazing how those little, tiny wires hurt so bad when you stab your finger..

 

Thanks for the tip...

 

I just went through hours of fighting with these hoses for my vacuum pump installation. Love the way they look but hate dealing with them.

 

Good idea. Another tip. I tightly wrapped electrical tape around the braided hose and then made my cut. I installed (Sniper) fittings and then then trimmed the exposed tape for a clean look.

 

Ive done this too and it also works with a cutting wheel.

 

This is what I did for years but with 3M masking tape.......until I found this:
https://www.mcmaster.com/3563A71/

Cuts through like butter.....the pro shops use a larger version of it.....Goodson sells these too I believe....

To the OP....that is a novel approach and way to be creative.....

Jebby

 

I use something similar, the Greenlee cable cutters.

 

Good idea. I'm about to do some SS flex line work....I'll try it. Another thing that I got last year, that worked great, is this neat tool:

check out this video--
and this....
this thing works great.

 

Only thing with a cutting wheel is it creates a lot of debris on the inside of the tubing (as witnessed in one of the OP's photos), so you have to clean that out thoroughly.

 

Yes-

My favorite way - a sharp chisel, sledge hammer and a block of aluminum. Nice clean cut and no debris.

 

I personally have used a dremel and the fiber reinforced strapping tape. A lot of ways you can go about it.

 

Another tip for when you are clamping the fittings in your bench vice is to use a piece of aluminum angle on each side of the vice jaws to help prevent any damage to the aluminum fittings or their finish.
I use them anytime I'm clamping soft metals in any vice.

 

This is the ticket for holding the fittings in the vice- aluminum with magnets- and will hold the fitting in several ways.

 

+1 on using the cutter.

 

Nice work OP, and a great looking engine.
When I did my lines last year a quick trip to the local Harbor Freight turned up these.
They work great.

 

I've never seen this done before. Thanks

 

Thanks for all the replies on this. Looks I need to invest in some more tools! Yeah, I thought about damaging the parts in the vice but I got impatient and I did see the debris in the tube which I blew out with my compressor, but I didn't think about that as an issue. Good to know and remember.

 

I use painters tape and the handheld cable cutters. Clean and nice. If you can, slip the new end on before you cut in case it frays. I like the flare end tool idea but I would use that to hole the cable when you secure the new ends on,

I would advise against the abrasive wheels since all that abrasive is now in the wire and inside the tubing