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I installed Hooker stainless steel headers and side pipes on my 73 small block. The left side is touching the frame, and the right side has maybe 1/8" of clearance. I read the thread on this issue, seems like a common problem. I can't imagine contact with the frame is a good thing. I have polyurethane motor mounts. Wondering if a thinner mount would give some clearance, but I haven't found that option. I don't want to go with solid mounts. I also have not found a good way to dimple a stainless steel header. It seems like my final recourse, is to remove the headers, and dimple them with a ballpeen hammer. As always, thanks for any thoughts on the subject.
A few things come to mind. I put poly motor and transmission mounts on my 70 SS Chevelle. As a result, the stock fan hit the shroud. I switched back to stock rubber mounts and all is well. On my 66, the side pipe on the passenger side touched the idler arm. I marked the pipe with a Sharpie and removed it. I took it to a local muffler shop that put a dent in the pipe using their pipe bender. Depending upon the location of the interference, but this may be an option. Both solutions are a PITA. Good luck. Jerry
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
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you dont want to smack the pipe when you massage it. Put a socket or a round piece of metal on it then smack that object. Force will tansfer to the header and give you the dent you need where you need it with less chance of damage
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
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Originally Posted by Franks73
I also have not found a good way to dimple a stainless steel header. It seems like my final recourse, is to remove the headers, and dimple them with a ballpeen hammer.
I had the exact same issue with my Hooker ss side pipe headers.
Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
you dont want to smack the pipe when you massage it. Put a socket or a round piece of metal on it then smack that object. Force will tansfer to the header and give you the dent you need where you need it with less chance of damage
I used two hammers, one being a ball peen which I placed on the header tube and whacked it a few times for the desired massage. I did have to install/remove several times to get it right but I didn't want to screw around with motor mounts. I like my poly!
Edit: It's a fact that dented headers add horsepower. Engine Masters proved it and they are the foremost authority on engine performance.
Last edited by resdoggie; Jan 29, 2022 at 10:31 AM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Solid mounts wont change the feel of the car or transfer any vibrations to the frame, if thats why you dont like them. I have them in my car with a big block and its actually better
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
The OP doesn't need to spend any money to fix his issue which is quite common. The dented tube(s) are usually unseen or hard to see unless you really look.
Solid mounts wont change the feel of the car or transfer any vibrations to the frame, if thats why you dont like them. I have them in my car with a big block and its actually better
I have never tried solid mounts. I confess, I just assumed there would be vibration. Also thought that was why the factory installed them. I respect your opinion, thanks! I wonder what the consensus is with other C3 Vette folks?
The OP doesn't need to spend any money to fix his issue which is quite common. The dented tube(s) are usually unseen or hard to see unless you really look.
I agree, the dents will be down by the frame, hard to see. Of course money is always a consideration, but also what will be the least pain in the butt factors in.
The easiest thing to do (if your mounts are in good shape) is to not remove the headers, and then stick a pry bar down into where the pipe touches. Wedge the bar back and forth and keep pressing the bar into the opening till you get the required clearance. You probably don't need much--1/16"?? Then you can rev up your engine to see how much it moves and adjust the clearance as needed.
The easiest thing to do (if your mounts are in good shape) is to not remove the headers, and then stick a pry bar down into where the pipe touches. Wedge the bar back and forth and keep pressing the bar into the opening till you get the required clearance. You probably don't need much--1/16"?? Then you can rev up your engine to see how much it moves and adjust the clearance as needed.
That is a very interesting idea! Kept thinking stainless would be a tough metal. Sounds like that would be worth a shot!
The easiest thing to do (if your mounts are in good shape) is to not remove the headers, and then stick a pry bar down into where the pipe touches. Wedge the bar back and forth and keep pressing the bar into the opening till you get the required clearance. You probably don't need much--1/16"?? Then you can rev up your engine to see how much it moves and adjust the clearance as needed.
The motor will move considerably more under torque load than just revving it.
I Imagine the stainless would be pretty tough to massage. Unless its really wedged hard on the frame Id leave it be
I used the largest socket I could get my hands on, put a towel over the jet coated finish then with bfh wacked it at a slight angle, came out perfect. Was mild steel not stainless though. Hate the way a ball peen hammer dent looks.