Anny body know of a GOOD place to send your column to have it rebuilt? :smash:

 

Why not do it yourself? I'm not being "smart" it's really not that difficult. If you have enough mechanical skill to remove it from the car, you should be able to fix it. The main thing you have to be careful of is the lower shaft has a crush joint that could get messed up if you start wailing on it with a hammer, but other than that, it's just a matter of taking it apart, see what it needs, and put it back together. Having the service manual will help a lot. Just finished mine a couple weeks ago, and it was a T & T which means just a few extra parts, no big deal.

 

In Corvette Fever magazine, there is usually a company that advertises steering column rebuilds. Something along the lines of Corvette Steering or something close.
Gary

 

Thanks for the reply BIG FISH :cheers: I sent my box to bairs cvt for rebuild they did the rebuild on the 82ce no problems , all of a suddon my steering shaft is too short. I have talked to several shops for help. It fit before now its to short. I dont think bairs did anything wrong AT ALL they are good folks, also new G M rag joint,I did not take out the column. what gives? :skep: This is on the 74 :bs do not want to leave annybody out thanks for all your help


[Modified by 1yy07, 10:02 PM 12/28/2002] :smash:


[Modified by 1yy07, 10:12 PM 12/28/2002]

 

I have heard Bair's has a great reputation and I certainly am not trying to smear them in any way, but this whole situation has me a little confused. If I understand this correctly, the steering all worked but you had a problem with the gear box. So that was removed and sent to Bairs for rebuilding. When it came back the steering column joint would not extend far enough? How short is it? Is it possible that Bairs may have taken your original gear box and sent you a different "off the shelf" rebuilt one? I don't believe that rebuilding your column would correct your problem if things are off in that manner, providing you are reasonably sure the steering shaft didn't get hit during removal/installation of the gear box. It is possible the crush joint on the intermediate (lower) shaft is sheared and allowed the shaft to collapse into the steering column. You should have about 4-3/8" from the edge of the bearing retainer to the end of the shaft. If you have something less than that, try pulling on it and see if it moves, you should not be able to move it by hand, even with good force. If it does move, the intermediate shaft will need to be replaced. Hope this helps, please let me know what you find? :eek:

 

The car has been hit in the front I think the intermediate shaft was hurt it is just now comming out. I trust bairs they did a GREAT job on my 82ce, they even sent back the parts that were to worn to rebuild the pitman shaft and gear and the worm gear.I think the intermediate shaft needs to be replaced :eek: it is 1/2" to short. :mad

 

Big Fish,
does it take any special tools to get where the tilt mechanism is on T/T column..my column on my 80 gives a little when I use it to climb out of and into the car. I'm thinking a "tooth" has broken-off on one of the tilt locks.

 

Rick, just like BIG FISH said no special tools involved I am looking at the big gm parts manuel there three screws on the support asm, they are lose that is what makes the wheel move up and down when you pull on the wheel.thanks to big fish I think I can solve this problem :cheers:

 

1yy07,

Thanks for the reply. So I've got some "screws loose" and not a broken tilt lock, and is this a common problem in T/T columns. Do I need to pull the column out or can this be repaired still inside the car.




[Modified by Ric's80_4sp, 4:53 AM 12/29/2002]

 

There are some "plugs" that act as a pivot for the tilt portion of the steering column. There is probably a special tool to remove these, but I just threaded a screw in them (10-32 I think) and used a claw hammer to pull them to allow dis-assembly. Also be careful removing the tilt mechanism spring. It is installed with a fair amount of force, and could really hurt you if you are not careful. Tilt the column up prior to removal to relax the spring as much as possible. Those are probably the only things you will have real problems with. Good luck!
:cheers: :seeya


[Modified by Big Fish, 11:40 PM 12/28/2002]


[Modified by Big Fish, 11:46 PM 12/28/2002]

 

I have written three papers on disassembling and repairing the C3 T&T steering column. Go to http://www.corvettefaq.com and look under Steering. You will need to download Papers #1, #2, & #3. There are also three Pages of line drawings to assist in the process. You should have nearly all the information that you will need to find actual problem. Remember that the T&T column from that era is really only a glorified tilt column. Except for the actual telescoping part of the upper steering shaft, any tilt column from a vehicle built about the same time as your C3 should be able to provide additional tilt parts.

I can help with individual questions.

 

Not trying to hijack the thread, but how about availability of the metal "housings" for the T&T column. The cast outer casing where the key lock cylinder went into was smashed when someone tried to unlock the steering wheel w/out the key. Also the metal collar just below was attacked w/ a cold chisel. I would like to rebuild myself if the parts are around. I was quoted $250 rebuild and $150 for damaged parts before, so I assume they are around, but the cataloges just have some plastic parts from later years listed.

 

75 BBC Stingray,
Have you tried Dr.Rebuild. They list lots of steering column parts in their catalog.

 

If you can find any T&T column from the 1969 to 1976 time frame that has the "round" head and not the ones with a headlight dimmer bulge on the left side, the parts should interchange. A lot of Cadillacs and big 98 Oldsmobiles had T&T columns back then. I am quite sure that the lock housings were the same.
http://www.columnsgalore.com is the websight location of a steering column rebuilding company in New York. They specialize in rebuilding steering columns that have been damaged by low life scum that attempted to steal your car. They also might be able to provide just the housing and any other parts that were damaged.

Good luck and happy new year,

Jim Shea

 

THANK YOU Mr. Shea!!! :thumbs:

 

BTW My calculations say that the steering shaft should stick out of the lower end of the steering column by 4.5 inches. Also, the maximum distance from the end of the steering column shaft to the tip of the steering gear input shaft should be 1.3 inches. Nominal distance should be around 1.0 inch.

The lower shaft is hollow. The upper shaft (inside the column) is solid. The two shafts are precisely formed so that they slide together with very little clearance. But just to make sure that they do not rattle and also to insure that the shaft remains at the designed length, the factory injected plastic into the interface of the two shafts. In a severe frontal collision, the plastic is sheared and the lower shaft can collapse back into the steering column.

Unfortunately, it is possible to shear the plastic and compress the lower shaft a number of ways: 1) Careless handling of the column while it is outside the car; 2) Previous collision damage to the car could have sheared the plastic; 3) A How-To article in a recent Corvette magazine suggested prying on the steering shaft in order to remove the flexible coupling. I am concerned that this "tip" could very well result in the shaft being foreshortened without being noticed by the person working on the car.

There really aren't any safety implications from having sheared the plastic injection between the shafts. The two shafts could develope a slight rattle or a little "lash" right on center. But they overlap by a considerable amount so that you will never have to worry about losing your ability to steer the car.

You should be able to grasp the lower steering shaft and either compress or force it out of the column to attain the 4.5 inch length. It will most likely function quite well in that position.

Happy New Year
Jim Shea

 

THANKS MR. SHEA!!!! :cool: :smash: I will do this job my self I dont think it is going to be that hard.