Door ajar switch
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: North Haven CT
Door ajar switch
Need to install a new door ajar switch in my 69. Can someone please tell and/or show me how to properly mount it. Is it riveted? screwed? Do the threads extend out beyond the glass surface? HELP! :confused:
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,685
Likes: 202
From: Waterford Mi
Re: Door ajar switch (EddyManure)
Carefully unscrew it from the jam and pull the wires thruogh the hole. Re attach them to the new switch and close the door to set it. I think it uses a 7/16" socket.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 3,123
Likes: 13
From: Hollywood, Florida
Re: Door ajar switch (EddyManure)
If my memory is correct, it is threaded into metal framing. The threads do not extend out past the glass. You might want to soak the mounting area with WD40. Mine was pretty corroded in at one time.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 6,493
Likes: 6
From: Bloomington MN
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Door ajar switch (shoptek)
Be very careful when you take it out. I did this recently. They are screwed into little metal plates that arent much bigger than the switch. The plates are riveted to the 'glass with rivets on each side of the switch. You can see the rivet heads next to the switch. On mine, all of the rivets were broken, but I didn't know this because the heads never fell out. When I went to unscrew them, one came out ok, but the other one came out and the plate fell down into the door jamb. There is VERY little access to this area. Luckily I was able to retrieve the plate with a magnet and re-rivet it into place. Hopefully your rivets are intact and the switch threads are in good shape, then you won't have this problem. Good luck!
AC
[Modified by A C, 8:58 AM 12/30/2002]
AC
[Modified by A C, 8:58 AM 12/30/2002]
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 10,866
Likes: 717
From: Beverly Hills/Pine Ridge Florida
Re: Door ajar switch (A C)
This is a miserable little job. Be careful unscrewing the old switch for 2 reasons, one being that you'll twist the wires, the other being that you'll break the plate loose as others have said. To get access to this area, you'll need to remove the quarter trim panels. You'll also need to remove the body bolt access cover in the front of the wheelwell. This is the little plate with 4 screws. You'll probably have to jack the car up and remove the rear tire too.
A few more things. Original switches had an SX logo on the plunger. They also used a "fish hook" type brass connector on the ends of the wires. These connectors pushed up into the switch and locked in place. Later models used spade connectors. You MIGHT have to change connectors. The fish hook connectors are available in most catalogs. If you break the fiberglass, you'll need to repair that first so that you can re-rivet the nut plate in place. OH...LOTS of fun. Been there, done that before. :) Chuck
A few more things. Original switches had an SX logo on the plunger. They also used a "fish hook" type brass connector on the ends of the wires. These connectors pushed up into the switch and locked in place. Later models used spade connectors. You MIGHT have to change connectors. The fish hook connectors are available in most catalogs. If you break the fiberglass, you'll need to repair that first so that you can re-rivet the nut plate in place. OH...LOTS of fun. Been there, done that before. :) Chuck
