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Is there a way to test each of these issues special tools or testers I have access to all manner of tools at work and what the company doesn't have I'm willing to buy I would love to keep the numbers matching block or would it be simpler to pull it redo everything else and drop a new block?
You have a wire dangling near the solenoid. You don't know where it goes and you don't know where it comes from.
You swapped out the ALT. I still think the ALT may show its charging . . . . . something . . . . . . . but its not charging the battery.
This goes back to that dangling wire. Maybe that is the charging wire from the ALT.
You have a coil hooked up backwards. Your wiring harness near the starter is corroded and near death.
I still think the starter is ok. They can take a lot of heat. The solenoid however, gets fried from the exhaust and can give you issues such as yours, hard start.
It appears your solenoid cap is brown. That usually indicates its a heavy duty ceramic unit. Better at handling heat. But how old is it? More specifically, condition of the contacts inside. You can buy and swap out just the solenoid for $25 or less. The starter will need to be removed obviously but can be reused.
But throwing parts at it may or may not fix the problem. Those wires need attention first. Grease & oil don't hurt wiring. But dried-out, rotten, corroded insulation on wiring, will not cut it. Corroded wiring is like an iceberg. You are only seeing the tip of what lies below the (insulation) surface.
I've saved the diagram for the wiring I'm going to correct it I'll order the solenoid and go from there I have all the wiring I need I should be able to replace all of them
I've saved the diagram for the wiring I'm going to correct it I'll order the solenoid and go from there I have all the wiring I need I should be able to replace all of them
If you are going to be working in that engine compartment, it might be worth taking an hour to really detail clean it. As long as you keep the alternator dry and distributor dry, most everything else should be able to handle water, even from a pressure washer.
You have a wire dangling near the solenoid. You don't know where it goes and you don't know where it comes from.
You swapped out the ALT. I still think the ALT may show its charging . . . . . something . . . . . . . but its not charging the battery.
This goes back to that dangling wire. Maybe that is the charging wire from the ALT.
You have a coil hooked up backwards. Your wiring harness near the starter is corroded and near death.
I still think the starter is ok.
But throwing parts at it may or may not fix the problem. Those wires need attention first. Grease & oil don't hurt wiring. But dried-out, rotten, corroded insulation on wiring, will not cut it. Corroded wiring is like an iceberg. You are only seeing the tip of what lies below the (insulation) surface.
So I switched out the starter and now my battery drain problem is gone battery stays charged car starts right up now I need a radiator and a brake booster
The car wants to overheat when idling for more than 20 minutes I've replaced the thermostat and the water pump and I've tested the head gaskets they're fine so I'm swapping the radiator and when ever I press the brake I hear a slight hiss and the car bogs down so I'm pretty sure it's the brake booster
Yeah I've found it out lol don't matter it's my dream car / money pit just trying to get her functional but eventually I wanna drop a 383 stroker in it
The car wants to overheat when idling for more than 20 minutes I've replaced the thermostat and the water pump and I've tested the head gaskets they're fine so I'm swapping the radiator and when ever I press the brake I hear a slight hiss and the car bogs down so I'm pretty sure it's the brake booster
The booster itself seldom goes bad. The check valve on the booster and the white one-way valve / filter prior to the booster are often overlooked suspects.
if you overheat while idling it is usually an air flow issue with the fan, shroud, and seals directing air through the radiator. post a pic of your rad and fan setup. generally a bad radiator is leaking all over the ground...