C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 05:32 PM
  #41  
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Is there a way to test each of these issues special tools or testers I have access to all manner of tools at work and what the company doesn't have I'm willing to buy I would love to keep the numbers matching block or would it be simpler to pull it redo everything else and drop a new block?
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 05:38 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Enwalord34
By acts like the battery is dead I mean the cranking slows and gets weaker and weaker till eventually it doesn't turn and then it just clicks
Originally Posted by Enwalord34
If I charge the battery it will start right up but once the engine is hot if I turn it off and try to start it again I'm back to square 1
Thanks!

That should help the diagnosis.

How new is the battery? A battery that has been deep discharged and lost its ampacity will still take a charge but may act just like this.
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 05:48 PM
  #43  
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It says 01/21 it is an Everlast maybe it has a bad cell I'm going to get tested in an hour
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 06:21 PM
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Battery tested fine
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 07:05 PM
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You have a wire dangling near the solenoid. You don't know where it goes and you don't know where it comes from.
You swapped out the ALT. I still think the ALT may show its charging . . . . . something . . . . . . . but its not charging the battery.

This goes back to that dangling wire. Maybe that is the charging wire from the ALT.

You have a coil hooked up backwards. Your wiring harness near the starter is corroded and near death.

I still think the starter is ok. They can take a lot of heat. The solenoid however, gets fried from the exhaust and can give you issues such as yours, hard start.
It appears your solenoid cap is brown. That usually indicates its a heavy duty ceramic unit. Better at handling heat. But how old is it? More specifically, condition of the contacts inside. You can buy and swap out just the solenoid for $25 or less. The starter will need to be removed obviously but can be reused.

But throwing parts at it may or may not fix the problem. Those wires need attention first. Grease & oil don't hurt wiring. But dried-out, rotten, corroded insulation on wiring, will not cut it. Corroded wiring is like an iceberg. You are only seeing the tip of what lies below the (insulation) surface.
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 07:12 PM
  #46  
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I've saved the diagram for the wiring I'm going to correct it I'll order the solenoid and go from there I have all the wiring I need I should be able to replace all of them
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 07:30 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Enwalord34
I've saved the diagram for the wiring I'm going to correct it I'll order the solenoid and go from there I have all the wiring I need I should be able to replace all of them
If you are going to be working in that engine compartment, it might be worth taking an hour to really detail clean it. As long as you keep the alternator dry and distributor dry, most everything else should be able to handle water, even from a pressure washer.
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 07:34 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
You have a wire dangling near the solenoid. You don't know where it goes and you don't know where it comes from.
You swapped out the ALT. I still think the ALT may show its charging . . . . . something . . . . . . . but its not charging the battery.

This goes back to that dangling wire. Maybe that is the charging wire from the ALT.

You have a coil hooked up backwards. Your wiring harness near the starter is corroded and near death.

I still think the starter is ok.

But throwing parts at it may or may not fix the problem. Those wires need attention first. Grease & oil don't hurt wiring. But dried-out, rotten, corroded insulation on wiring, will not cut it. Corroded wiring is like an iceberg. You are only seeing the tip of what lies below the (insulation) surface.
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 08:48 PM
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Enwalord34,
Knowledge, a hefty wallet and perseverance will win over your issue.
You will figure it out.
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Old Apr 4, 2022 | 07:09 PM
  #50  
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Old Apr 4, 2022 | 09:51 PM
  #51  
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So I switched out the starter and now my battery drain problem is gone battery stays charged car starts right up now I need a radiator and a brake booster
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Old Apr 4, 2022 | 09:59 PM
  #52  
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The car wants to overheat when idling for more than 20 minutes I've replaced the thermostat and the water pump and I've tested the head gaskets they're fine so I'm swapping the radiator and when ever I press the brake I hear a slight hiss and the car bogs down so I'm pretty sure it's the brake booster
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Old Apr 4, 2022 | 10:20 PM
  #53  
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Good to hear that you're making progress.
Thanks for the update.

Did anyone tell you that if you own a Corvette long enough, eventually you'll be changing stuff a second time.
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Old Apr 4, 2022 | 10:24 PM
  #54  
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Yeah I've found it out lol don't matter it's my dream car / money pit just trying to get her functional but eventually I wanna drop a 383 stroker in it
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 08:30 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Enwalord34
The car wants to overheat when idling for more than 20 minutes I've replaced the thermostat and the water pump and I've tested the head gaskets they're fine so I'm swapping the radiator and when ever I press the brake I hear a slight hiss and the car bogs down so I'm pretty sure it's the brake booster
The booster itself seldom goes bad. The check valve on the booster and the white one-way valve / filter prior to the booster are often overlooked suspects.
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 09:20 AM
  #56  
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if you overheat while idling it is usually an air flow issue with the fan, shroud, and seals directing air through the radiator. post a pic of your rad and fan setup. generally a bad radiator is leaking all over the ground...
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