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I am not following your train of thought redoggie.
Coolant does not flow to the waterneck. It flows away from it.
So theoretically, it should not matter if the thermostat is open, is closed or missing in action.
The bulge is past the thermostat.
I think the bulge is just fatigue, unrelated to the thermo.
I think he is referring that the gauge is showing too low of an operating temp. So either the gauge is off, or the coolant is actually too cool, via one of the methods redoggie mentioned.
My "71 L48 runs about halfway between the small hash mark and the 210 mark all the time, regardless of ambient temp. (after warm-up, of course)
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
@headsUP. Unrelated, yes, but his hose is toast and needs replacement. But it still flows coolant which we see from his gauge if his gauge is working properly. The coolant temperature is too low which is my focus and indicative of my earlier comments for that situation. I posted a similar condition with my car a few years ago with a Stewart stage 2 pump (no bypass) and holes drilled in the stat (to promote flow when cold because the pump does not have a bypass). Engine would not warm up just like the OP's but it was 60*F outside. It's equivalent to running without a stat. I have since installed a Stewart stage 1 pump with a bypass and a stat with no holes drilled.
I may be off base here but... What I see is an extra nut and stud at the water pump end that does not belong. Here is a pic from my 72 and the page from the assembly Manuel, I also have a 73 parts car that the mounting is the same.
Just bolt/lock washer/brace/washer/pump at least remove the extra nut.
I may be off base here but... What I see is an extra nut and stud at the water pump end that does not belong. Here is a pic from my 72 and the page from the assembly Manuel, I also have a 73 parts car that the mounting is the same.
This is the nut (green arrow) FASTAZU is talking about that does not belong there. Remove it for better brace alignment.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
I saw this hose and said...WOW! That is a costly tow and repair waiting to happen if left alone. I would also replace the lower hose just to be safe, don't cheap out on this repair, buy good hoses. GL
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
While ypur at it.
Originally Posted by Buccaneer
I saw this hose and said...WOW! That is a costly tow and repair waiting to happen if left alone. I would also replace the lower hose just to be safe, don't cheap out on this repair, buy good hoses. GL
How old are the heater hoses?
If you do decide to change them, cut them from the top down (don't try to yank them off) so you don't cause a leak.
No, you're right. You can clearly see the bracket is torqued and shout not be.
Originally Posted by FASTAZU
I may be off base here but... What I see is an extra nut and stud at the water pump end that does not belong. Here is a pic from my 72 and the page from the assembly Manuel, I also have a 73 parts car that the mounting is the same.
Just bolt/lock washer/brace/washer/pump at least remove the extra nut.
4. Is it imperative to get a 61amp alt or as long as I’m getting away with 55amp can I leave it?
Thanks Everyone!!! 👍✌️👊
No it is not imperative. Your headlights/tail lights/brake lights will dim when you turn the A/C on and set the blower speed to HI. Should you need to replace the alternator in the future, replace it with a 61 amp. A 55 amp alternator has 90%capacity of what the system was designed for.
You should consider plugging that vacuum port on the carb.
Looks like it provided vacuum for the TCS system below:
Let us know how everthing works out, Eric-
Last edited by '73and'75; Mar 22, 2022 at 04:33 PM.
It is amazing that the hose has grown to that diameter. It is clearly a problem just waiting to happen. I noticed that you mentioned that you ordered a hose from Summit. I have a lot of aftermarket parts on my 1968 427 as well but the one thing that shows the GM label is my upper hose. I bought a set from a aftermarket supplier with the GM numbers on it. Neither the radiator nor the water pump are stock GM parts but at least my upper hose says GM all over it.
How important is that little 90* hose that goes from the Top of the water pump to the front of the Intake manifold? I use a drilled style thermostat but have not been using the 90* hose on my 427. Is it very important to the cooling system? I noticed the post starter's Pictures show the lack of one on his engine as well.
South side of Atlanta here maybe we meet one day 
