Factory or prior owner fitting ?
I’m thinking it’s a prior owner thing for ???
May never know but it’s located on the drivers side of the block just above the oil filter. Has me wondering if it’s a port for the oil pressure gauge which btw is frozen at about 30lbs.
Anyone know if this is a factory thing ?
You're looking for the entire kit to replace the missing pieces and the plastic line (always good to replace the plastic if you don't know that it's done). The kit is about $35 from Corvette Central, but I learned recently that this kit uses a copper line between the block and the plastic fitting whereas the factory hard line was steel. You will also need the block fitting and bracket that secures the connection between the hard line and the plastic line.
Last edited by barkingrats; Apr 1, 2022 at 07:24 PM.
M
M
I misread the OP's year and thought we were talking '69. It appears the '68 427 uses the plastic line from the block to the gauge (according to CC), which kinda makes sense given the length of the plastic line hanging down (if that's what it is).
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c3-6...q%3doil%2bline
You're looking for the entire kit to replace the missing pieces and the plastic line (always good to replace the plastic if you don't know that it's done). The kit is about $35 from Corvette Central, but I learned recently that this kit uses a copper line between the block and the plastic fitting whereas the factory hard line was steel. You will also need the block fitting and bracket that secures the connection between the hard line and the plastic line.
Have a suspicion that at some point the gauge froze and someone mounted an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, maybe with a 12v sender.
I have 3 non working gauges, clock (shocker), oil pressure and amp meter.
The tach was dead when I picked up the car 5 weeks back but the more I run it the more the tach behaves. The cable has numerous cracks and I have a new one on hand to be done one day soon.
The car isn’t going to be a concourse restoration but I do intend to make everything work as it should.
I misread the OP's year and thought we were talking '69. It appears the '68 427 uses the plastic line from the block to the gauge (according to CC), which kinda makes sense given the length of the plastic line hanging down (if that's what it is).
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c3-6...q%3doil%2bline
vs
hopefully someone with a 68 car or AIM can chime in
M
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My guess would be that might be why they changed the design in 69 so that copper part was beside the manifold still protecting from the heat and and then the more flexible plastic the rest of the way to the gauge. (I'd say cheaper but with the additional fittings and bracket it probably wasn't cheaper so I'll stick with easier for the worker to install)
M
https://shop.docrebuild.com/1968Corv...M12489518.aspx
I tend to trust his descriptions and identifiers over the other vendors.
Mooser is right that if you want the correct factory setup for '68 you'll need to see what was called out in the assembly instruction manual - that carries more weight than vendors' descriptions. A clue may be that detached line hanging down - is it plastic or metal?

My guess would be that might be why they changed the design in 69 so that copper part was beside the manifold still protecting from the heat and and then the more flexible plastic the rest of the way to the gauge. (I'd say cheaper but with the additional fittings and bracket it probably wasn't cheaper so I'll stick with easier for the worker to install)
M
Found these 2 and the SBC one.....
https://shop.docrebuild.com/1968Corv...M12489518.aspx
I tend to trust his descriptions and identifiers over the other vendors.
Mooser is right that if you want the correct factory setup for '68 you'll need to see what was called out in the assembly instruction manual - that carries more weight than vendors' descriptions. A clue may be that detached line hanging down - is it plastic or metal?
.most of the car is correct but there is some sketchy stuff that defies description. Case in point...
Thinking this isn’t factory electrical work. Found this yesterday when I dropped the spare tire carrier. The radios speaker wires are connected like this too. Fortunately this car has limited tech so I’m finding and correcting things like this without too much trouble.I’ll look into the Doc rebuild site for that thanks. Steel is harder than plastic to work with but I’m not a fan of oil in my carpet.


If you're not totally concerned with originality then you could go braided on that line and have sort of the best of both (reliability and flexibility). One word of caution is that the actual fitting on the gauge is sort of a odd duck
M
When we rebuilt my 427 the nylon line was old and fragile and would snap easily when bent past 45* so I knew I would have to replace it. The LAST thing you should ever want is 200* (F) oil squirting out from under the dashboard as it would likely cause a fire and there goes the Corvette in addition to the burns on your legs.
Dr. Rebuild is an incredibly useful source for many parts on the older Corvettes. Dealing with Doc can be challenging if he is having a "bad" day, I have been very fortunate and used his parts many times over as he has the right parts at a good price. Doc is a very nice guy normally but like many people he doesn't tolerate stupidity very well at times. The Vacuum Hose set from him is the best I have seen and they gave me a Hose layout that is priceless.
The hose used on my 1968 was Nylon, not steel or copper. When I bought the SS braided hose it came with the necessary fittings to make it work with my Corvette. I still have the copper replacement set on my garage wall.....
Best regards,
Chris























