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Doug
At this point you could use a piece of wire and simply touch each end to the plug that goes to the very hard to reach slide switch (at the accelerator). If the solenoid energizes, then you can test the switch by setting your voltmeter to test “Continuity”. With key removed from ignition, attach the meter leads to each of the switch terminals and then move the round post up and down. If the switch is good you will see the meter needle move (numbers increase on a digital meter) plus hear a tone from the meter. You can test the “Continuity” by touching both meter leads together. I hope this makes sense.
Doug
At this point you could use a piece of wire and simply touch each end to the plug that goes to the very hard to reach slide switch (at the accelerator). If the solenoid energizes, then you can test the switch by setting your voltmeter to test “Continuity”. With key removed from ignition, attach the meter leads to each of the switch terminals and then move the round post up and down. If the switch is good you will see the meter needle move (numbers increase on a digital meter) plus hear a tone from the meter. You can test the “Continuity” by touching both meter leads together. I hope this makes sense.
Yes, I was thinking something like that also. The switch has two prongs, I assume the movement of the post completes the circuit from one prong to the other. That in turn sends 12 volts to the wire connector by the headlight actuator and from there up to the solenoid wire on the hood.
Tks. Doug
Ok, I already have 12 volts at the wire connector which plugs into the accelerator switch. I can also just do a continuity test from the accelerator wire to the headlight actuator location, then the other side of that connector up to the wire ending at the hood.
If that all shows full continuity then I can assume the accelerator switch is bad.
Do you think I should use the 50 year old solenoid or get a new one (China made?).
Tks. Doug
I am still using the 50 year old solenoids in my 73 (hood flapper and anti dieseling one at carb) and they work great and most likely will contiue to do so unless hit with a hammer or voltage spike.
Follow Eliredanblack's procedure. Easier than what I outlined.
Ok, plugged solenoid back in hood connector and grounded. Wire linked both slots of accelerator switch wire together. Key on and solenoid arm pops out. So solenoid and wiring to hood all ok.
See pics, took switch out, set meter on continuity. Switch closed, off, and no continuity. Switch open, on, and still no continuity. So, switch must be the problem.
Will order kickdown switch which I believe is same for accelerator pedal.
When you purchase the new switch be Sure to test it with your meter prior to installation. I don’t trust restoration parts after reading all the horror stories.
When you purchase the new switch be Sure to test it with your meter prior to installation. I don’t trust restoration parts after reading all the horror stories.
Thanks, and I have a question. My switch has the post starting in the center. Pics on line show the post at the bottom. Ads call it a kickdown switch. Is the switch really different for auto or 4 speed car? Zip has a part number for kickdown, and a separate part for pedal switch.
Doug
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Originally Posted by DRC
If you notice, the lever is in the middle position, and the switch will move down real easy correct?
If you try to push the lever up it has a stop correct?
On mine I pushed the lever up past the stop (it clicks but goes past)
Then I re-installed the switch and stepped on the gas pedel all the way to "set" the switch and mine started working again
Seems the switch is self adjusting just needs to be set at the top for the adjustment to take pace
If you notice, the lever is in the middle position, and the switch will move down real easy correct?
If you try to push the lever up it has a stop correct?
On mine I pushed the lever up past the stop (it clicks but goes past)
Then I re-installed the switch and stepped on the gas pedel all the way to "set" the switch and mine started working again
Seems the switch is self adjusting just needs to be set at the top for the adjustment to take pace
I tried that. But switch still no continuity. Some ads show switch post starting at mid point, some show post starting at the bottom.
Doug
Doug
The post on the switch will travel up and down, that being said, my 73 AIM says that the switch will be “Indexed” by pressing the accelerator all the way to the floorboard. My old switch as well as the new switch never did that. So I had to add the large rubber “Doughnut” to make the accelerator hit / move the switch. My OEM switch was not broken, and I don’t see how the accelerator metal parts could have been bent. When you install the new switch, visually make sure the the post on the switch moves once the accelerator is pushed to the floor. I believe that all the switches are made by Lectric Limited and their quality is pretty good, the kick down and cowl vent switch are the same.
Doug
The post on the switch will travel up and down, that being said, my 73 AIM says that the switch will be “Indexed” by pressing the accelerator all the way to the floorboard. My old switch as well as the new switch never did that. So I had to add the large rubber “Doughnut” to make the accelerator hit / move the switch. My OEM switch was not broken, and I don’t see how the accelerator metal parts could have been bent. When you install the new switch, visually make sure the the post on the switch moves once the accelerator is pushed to the floor. I believe that all the switches are made by Lectric Limited and their quality is pretty good, the kick down and cowl vent switch are the same.
Ok, so I guess no matter if the post is at middle or bottom position to start one press of pedal will index it. I will test with meter before install.
Can someone please post a picture of the switch installed. I want to make sure I have it indexed right. Is there a top, bottom, left, right, and does it matter which way the connector is plugged in.
And I see there is an original foam seal that goes in the hood flapper area. No longer available. I have the original thin gasket. See pic from assembly manual point # 1, and can I make up something to fill in? May as well make this as complete as possible.
Doug,
I am glad you narrowed down the problem to the switch and have one on the way. Attached is a picture of mine I took this afternoon. Hope it helps.
Doug,
I am glad you narrowed down the problem to the switch and have one on the way. Attached is a picture of mine I took this afternoon. Hope it helps.
I got curious and tried ignition ON pedal to the floor and didn't hear squat on my '73 SB 4 speed. Through all the verbiage above am I correct that all you have to do to check flapper solenoid itself is unplug tan/black connector out there by headlight and hit tan side with 12v and black side with a good ground? Blueshark lost me at "both sides need juice." Thanks in advance
Not sure about the statement for “both sides need juice.” The door has a common solenoid that needs 12 volts to one wire and a ground to the other wire. If depressing the accelerator all the way down does get you voltage, then I would look at the switch that is activated by the accelerator. You have to be a contortionist to look at it, and even worse to remove it.
Not sure about the statement for “both sides need juice.” The door has a common solenoid that needs 12 volts to one wire and a ground to the other wire. If depressing the accelerator all the way down does get you voltage, then I would look at the switch that is activated by the accelerator. You have to be a contortionist to look at it, and even worse to remove it.
That's what I figured El and thanks. Post #14 above is what I was referring to/what kinda threw me off. Since I'm not a contortionist I think I'll start at the solenoid for the door first and work back from there.
So now that I know that door is out there, is it safe to say that it will only open when your foot is to the floor (activating switch under dash)? Then it follows that the second you let off the gas it closes again?
On my 73 the solenoid will open when the accelerator is pressed almost to the floorboard. For some reason, I had to put a large “doughnut” shaped piece of rubber on the round switch arm so that the accelerator would make contact it.
"So now that I know that door is out there, is it safe to say that it will only open when your foot is to the floor (activating switch under dash)? Then it follows that the second you let off the gas it closes again?"[/QUOTE]
Yes as long as the ignition is in the ON position. And you can apply 12v + and - (from ground) to the socket at the end of the wires from the solenoid at the connector that is near trhe headlight actuator to see if it works. The solenoid is not grounded to the metal hood; hence the separate ground wire going to it.
