I have a set of procomp heads on my sbc that are doing very well. Except the fact that I have a lot of oil consumption. The bottom of the engine has been completely rebuilt so I think that the problem is from the valve stem seals. The question is: wich are good valve seals that I can buy?
Thank you.

 

Viton seals.

 

The blue viton positive seals.....these can be usually purchased from the cylinder head manufacturer.....or use Summit's search to narrow them down as you will need to know the size of them.....the outer guide diameter and valve stem I.D.
Fel-Pro, USseal, Enginetech, Rock Auto and others sell the ones you need.....but verify your s are bad to begin with.

Jebby

 

Double ck the guides. Some of the early versions of those heads seemed to have some guide issues. Also verify rocker geometry isn't hurting them.

JIM

 

Oil Consumption.
If the bottom edge of the Intake gasket was not properly sealed, (both sides) that will burn more oil than 16 stem seals.

 

yup! This^^^^

 

Triple that. Just going through scenario.

 

I removed the intake manifold and reinstalled it using "a lot" of sealant and fel-pro gaskets but with no changes in terms of oil consumption. The vale stem seals are the last thing that i haven't changed...

 

You could add some rubber umbrella seals and see if it helps. I doubt the seals are the problem.

A piston ring installed upside down is a possibility. Check the plugs for oil. Maybe just one cylinder.

 

Well... the procomp heads as you are aware, are cheep and do have problems...if the head does not drain/flow the oil well back to the block, no valve seal will ever fix this....Also, look into your intake manifold, do you see any oil film in the plenum just under the carb.... if your PVC valve is bad, you can also suck a lot of oil out through there...

Ford F150's with the 5.4 3V titan engine... the PVC is a part of the valve cover,,,, when it goes bad, it will suck the oil dry in under 400 miles... just a FYI

 

Was sealant applied on every square inch of the gasket, both sides? Or did you just run a RTV bead around some ports and call it good?

HUGE difference ^^^^^^^^^^^^^.

The bottom edge of the gasket is a direct highway to the lifter valley, loaded with oil, just waiting to be sucked into a Intake port.

 

All 8 plugs are equally covered of carbonized oil... I change them about every 500km
In the pic below 5 of them, one of many times that i've replaced them.

 

I Understand but my budget at the time it was enough only for these heads. But I never never heard from anyone of a such oil consumption with these.

Ok, that's interesting. The plenum of the intake (Edelbrock performer that is not so old), is brown on botrh sides.
And I think that my PCV valve is old as the car. But is not locked and the weight is free to move. I have new one from a nissan "something". I could try with this.

 

I followed exactly this video:

Sorry, I'm not sure to understand, could you explain with a pic? Did you mean that I should have covered with RTV the area that i marked with red?
Or around every ports as marked in green?

Thank you!

 

I only had to watch a minute's worth of that video to realize its incorrect procedure. And it's not just that presentation, there are dozens on YouTube. that are incorrect.

The red graphic in your photo is exactly what I am referring to, the bottom edge. That portion of the gasket seals out the oily mist that lays in the lifter valley.
There are four intake ports in the head under constant vacuum. Those don't care if they get air from above the gasket, below the gasket or from the Intake itself. Those ports have to have air. So, you have eight ports trying to suck air from anywhere it can. Including the lifter valley.
That event is known as a hidden vacuum leak. They are about impossible to find. But will burn oil, foul plugs and run like crap. It's an uncontrolled vac leak.

Having said that, it is imperative to apply a sealer on the entire Intake gasket, front to back, top to bottom and BOTH sides. That means on the side that goes to the head. And the side that goes to the Intake. Note that in the video, he didn't do any of that. Just asking for leaks later on.

You can use a tube of RTV or Edelbrock has a sealant called Gastiniche (sp?) that's in a can with an applicator brush. The advantage of this type of sealer is, you won't get the oozing out mess like others.
The Water-Ports can get a smear of clear RTV in the area labeled green on your photo. No need to do the Intake ports, already done earlier.
And last, Permatex The Right Stuff is wonderful for the china walls. Throw those end gaskets away. ALWAYS!
Thread-sealant on the bolts.

Its also a good habit to let the gasket set-up and dry slightly when its on the cylinder head. A couple bolts will hold its position. Then, later you can apply sealant on the top of the gasket.
Use the Right Stuff at the very last. It sets-up quickly.

 

Thank You !!
For the intake gaskets It's OK if I use Fel Pro?

 

Excellent choice.

About those sealants: Your local car parts store may carry the Thread Sealant, Gastiniche and the Right Stuff. Some do, some don't.
Otherwise, its mail order time. Summit, Amazon, EBay, etc.

 

I doubt valve stem seals would allow that much oil to pass into cyl's

 

Ok, I bought all the stuff to install correctly the intake gaskets. Thank you all for the advices! I'll let you know!

 

Wow, I owned one for 18 years, and never knew that! 'Course I didn't have an oil consumption problem. Rust, now that's a different story...