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The 11-15 in-lb torque value you reference is for the preload of the pinion bearing, NOT the torque value for the nut.
The nut is a self-locking design. If you look closely, you’ll see the outer end is not round.
Unless the differential has been rebuilt with a solid sleeve in lieu of the crush sleeve, you will not need to worry about torque values. Mark the nut position relative to the pinion threads and remove it. Remove the yoke (it most likely will require use of a puller). Note the position of the flange of the seal relative to the housing. It should have an 1/8” gap. When you install the new seal, be sure to keep the 1/8” gap. Do NOT attempt to drive the flange to contact the case. This is important.
Thoroughly clean the mating surface of the seal land and the splines on the pinion and the yoke. Apply a small bead of sealant (Permatex #2) to the seal land and the seal and carefully drive it into position. Do not “****” the seal during the process. Apply a light coat of the sealant to the splines of the pinion and the yoke. Do not apply so much that the sealant mushes into the bearing. Install the yoke. Apply red loctite to the nut and tight to the witness mark you made at the start. DO NOT overtighten.
1978 corvette pinion seal replacement.
