Body Bushing replace on 1968
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Joined: May 2022
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From: Connecticut
Body Bushing replace on 1968
In the process of replacing body bushings with new rubber ones, have fabricated 2x6 with slots, removed rear bumpers,negative cable removed spare tire but not cover, in front removed frame horn on one side and left 1 bolt on opposite side loose, disconnected rag joint, master cylinder all 4 bolts to bushings 1 thru 4 on opposite side remove 5 and 8 left 6 and 7 loose when lifting I am only able to get clearance for 1.5 and need 4 inch clearance what am I forgetting to remove?
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2022
Posts: 69
Likes: 14
From: Connecticut
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2022
Posts: 69
Likes: 14
From: Connecticut
Just an update for anyone who tackles this at home something I did not see in any articles was there is a strap by the drive shaft going across to each side once I removed nut on one side the car lifted the amount I needed to put the new bushings in, now doing the passenger side
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
1 day on the Chevelle, next time you can come do mine.
didnt break any bolts off?
The 68 came with solid mounts correct? Big fan of poly stuff but for body mounts rubber is the way to go makes a huge difference.
didnt break any bolts off?
The 68 came with solid mounts correct? Big fan of poly stuff but for body mounts rubber is the way to go makes a huge difference.
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Joined: May 2022
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From: Connecticut
No bolts broke off on the chevelle but the bushings looked like mushrooms, plus I did it when I had the car in Puerto Rico, but moved back to CT after the storm and brought the chevelle with me, and the wife :-) the vette is a learning experience my first, all bolts for bushings came out except castle nut started spinning on #7 but will tackle that tomorrow it is half out, leaving it soaking in pb and will pick up an air ratchet tomorrow and try to angle to catch the nut on a corner, all my tools are still in my garage in PR, and I had poly on my Convertible e30 and didn’t like them rubber is more comfortable
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: SW Florida.
there are no 5 thru 8 body mounts. they are 1-4 left and right. is #7 a rear mount? is it a coupe? the top of the rear mount bolts are held by a piece of sheet metal rivited over the head for assy line convenience. they rarely unbolt. usually spin in the cage. if a convert, the base for the top deck hinge is mounted on top of that bolt.major PIRA to remove without that spring taking your fingers off. if coupe, cut the bottom of the bolt off and drive it up into the "trunk" area and drop a new bolt down through the hole.
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Joined: May 2022
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From: Connecticut
I stand corrected I read somewhere that drivers side is 1 thru 4 and passenger side is 5 thru 8 so it would be bolt 3 on passenger side in front of rear wheel it spins in the mount, it is a coupe and I ended up having to cut the head off with a 3 inch angle cutter not damage to access door nor had to cut fiberglass as some have mentioned I raised the car enough to get the rubber mounts on that side I have all bushings in except that #3 on passenger side all bolts with anti seize and finger tight I have seen that Zip sells a replacement that can be welded in, I will attempt to grasp the bolt in between the body and frame otherwise it will have to be lifted higher both sides to allow replacement, if I decided to slip the old solid bushing back over the bolt and tighten the remaing 7 would it be okay to drive to a shop to have them lift and weld the replacement and if I did not tackle this now would it damage the body with that one bushing not being tightened down until winter when I plan on removing body to have frame sandblasted and painted which at that point will replace that cage nut?
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Joined: Jul 2015
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From: SW Florida.
okay. #3 is hard. you may be removing the body complete to get to it. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...unt-bolts.html https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...mount-nut.html