Engine Hoist and Stand Weight Capacity?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 167
Likes: 42
From: Virginia
Engine Hoist and Stand Weight Capacity?
I got an engine hoist 25% off at Harbor Freight on memorial day. (Pittsburgh 1 Ton Engine Hoist). I have a few questions because I've been planning on pulling my engine to get the crankshaft resurfaced or replaced. I have a 400sbc in there with Edelbrock heads and intake on it.
How heavy is that engine? I've seen varying answers online and here.
Which setting would the engine hoist have to be on? The arm can change from 1, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 ton. I would like the arm to be as long as possible because I am first going to try to pull the engine from the front and not the side due to room constraints.
I haven't bought an engine stand yet. I was looking at the Ironton 1000lb engine stand, which seems like more than enough weight to me but some people have said you need a 2000lb stand if you have a 400sbc. Is that engine stand going to work?
How heavy is that engine? I've seen varying answers online and here.
Which setting would the engine hoist have to be on? The arm can change from 1, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 ton. I would like the arm to be as long as possible because I am first going to try to pull the engine from the front and not the side due to room constraints.
I haven't bought an engine stand yet. I was looking at the Ironton 1000lb engine stand, which seems like more than enough weight to me but some people have said you need a 2000lb stand if you have a 400sbc. Is that engine stand going to work?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 3,181
Likes: 732
From: Texas City, TX Texas
The engine is less than 500 lbs. That stand likely will work, but I would get a better quality stand if you plan on using it much. Especially one with 4 wheels. My stands only have three, but they are custom built, heavy duty, and wider to prevent tipping. Also, see how thick(thin?) are the walls of the tubing.
Your hoist is probably O.K. in the longest setting, just be mindful that you are at it's limit.
Your hoist is probably O.K. in the longest setting, just be mindful that you are at it's limit.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 167
Likes: 42
From: Virginia
4 wheels, you mean like on the ground to roll it right? It does have 4 wheels there, the base of the stand is in an “I” formation not a 3 wheel “T” formation. If that’s what you are talking about. Is there another brand/type that is near the price that you would recommend. Tractor supply has a Torin Big Red, 1250lb rated with a wider base but the over reviews were worse than the Ironton and it was more expensive. Torin, $145 vs Ironton, $120. I really don’t know anything about these so I’m open to advice.
The engine is less than 500 lbs. That stand likely will work, but I would get a better quality stand if you plan on using it much. Especially one with 4 wheels. My stands only have three, but they are custom built, heavy duty, and wider to prevent tipping. Also, see how thick(thin?) are the walls of the tubing.
Your hoist is probably O.K. in the longest setting, just be mindful that you are at it's limit.
Your hoist is probably O.K. in the longest setting, just be mindful that you are at it's limit.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,941
Likes: 281
From: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Cruise-In IX Veteran
Harbor freight stuff will work especially for a small block. I used the 1000 lb HF stand for my big block build. My neightbor has the HR hoist and it works well.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 167
Likes: 42
From: Virginia
Awesome, Thanks! I was probably gonna pull the intake and heads off too just to make sure nothing is going wrong up there. That’ll be a later decision once it’s on the stand though. The 1/4 Ton setting for the hoist, is that enough or should I keep it at 1/2 to be safe?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 579
From: Pittsburgh PA
Awesome, Thanks! I was probably gonna pull the intake and heads off too just to make sure nothing is going wrong up there. That’ll be a later decision once it’s on the stand though. The 1/4 Ton setting for the hoist, is that enough or should I keep it at 1/2 to be safe?
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 167
Likes: 42
From: Virginia
Well I’m pulling the crank because I think a bearing went bad but can’t tell if the crank is damaged or not. So I’m replacing the bearings and taking the crank to a machine shop for their opinion. I thought I had read somewhere if a bearing goes bad then any metal can go through the engine and you need to pull the heads/pistons to clean them and clear any metal shavings that may be up there. If I don’t need to pull the heads I’m totally down for less work lol.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 866
Likes: 187
From: CT
I’ve always used the HF 1,000 lb stands and it held a fully dressed 521BBF no problem. Careful turning the engine over by hand if your not super strong. I’ve since upgraded to a Eastwood 1,000 rotating stand that has a gear driven hand crank and can’t believe how much easier it is and abs lock it 360* In any direction. Well worth it if you plan to pull multiple or build more than 1 engine. Think when I got it a few years ago I got it for less than $200.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 44,681
Likes: 1,830
From: Huntsville AL
Awesome, Thanks! I was probably gonna pull the intake and heads off too just to make sure nothing is going wrong up there. That’ll be a later decision once it’s on the stand though. The 1/4 Ton setting for the hoist, is that enough or should I keep it at 1/2 to be safe?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 697
My engine hoist that I bought 20-25 plus years ago is a Speedway brand. It's a 2 ton. Legs fold up for storage. When down there are four wheels on the ground. Glad I went with it because it has a higher weight rating fully extended.
When I pulled the small block from my 71 C3 I had to go in from the side. Couldn't reach from the front. Also a engine leveler is a must for adjusting the engine angle. Buy the one with the handle to adjust the engine angle. I put the car on jack stands and and took the tire/wheels off so I could move the engine hoist as needed.
Good luck.
When I pulled the small block from my 71 C3 I had to go in from the side. Couldn't reach from the front. Also a engine leveler is a must for adjusting the engine angle. Buy the one with the handle to adjust the engine angle. I put the car on jack stands and and took the tire/wheels off so I could move the engine hoist as needed.
Good luck.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
if you have to use the cherry picker at full extension, throw some weight on the back of the cherry picker. i pull boat engines by adding a piece of engine stand by sliding it into the boom of the hoist. a lot more length and height. but you have to chain the back of the cherry picker to a boat trailer or a riding mower with a couple of 454 heads on it. and only lift the short block. heads later. the engine stand. no matter who built it or how heavy, cut a 2 by 4 to the right length and put it under the crank pulley to the ground so it is taking weight when it is sitting overnite or for an indefinite period.
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 8,095
Likes: 4,449
From: Marlton NJ
A complete 350 SBC with iron heads & intake, water pump to carb & distrib & flywheel, should weigh very close to 521 lbs.
Removing the heads, intake, carb, distrib, and water pump should get you down to 357 lbs but is not necessary for removal.
Removal of an engine from a C3 almost always means doing it from the side, the nose is too long, The engine "hoists" don't reach far enough.
Keep the engine on the engine stand with a balancer brace as mentioned when not in use. They have been known to fatigue and crack. Or 3 legged ones tip over. Falling is bad. Seen it.
Once the engine is built do not store it on the engine stand, buy a $45 engine cradle and store it on that. 4 wheels, low to ground, easier to move around. Won't fall.
Removing the heads, intake, carb, distrib, and water pump should get you down to 357 lbs but is not necessary for removal.
Removal of an engine from a C3 almost always means doing it from the side, the nose is too long, The engine "hoists" don't reach far enough.
Keep the engine on the engine stand with a balancer brace as mentioned when not in use. They have been known to fatigue and crack. Or 3 legged ones tip over. Falling is bad. Seen it.
Once the engine is built do not store it on the engine stand, buy a $45 engine cradle and store it on that. 4 wheels, low to ground, easier to move around. Won't fall.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 167
Likes: 42
From: Virginia
Thanks, I was looking at the engine cradles as well but wasn't sure on it. My plan is to have it out as short a period as possible but with my luck it'll be out forever. I've had the C3 for almost two years and have only driven it like 5 times because of engine problems.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I just used the Harbor Freight 2 ton with the yellow load leveler to install my engine. I only do vette engines from the side and NEVER remove the hood. It's a waste of time and possible to chip the paint on the edges R&R ing
Last edited by gkull; Jun 2, 2022 at 08:36 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Take the "ONE TON" back the arm is so short that it's only made for doing 4 cylinder tiny cars. I have the fold up "!" ton also from H.F. and I only used it once doing a mini pickup 2 liter.
Last edited by gkull; Jun 2, 2022 at 08:43 AM.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,140
Likes: 4,248
From: US-PNW
This is the hoist I used to R&R my big block a couple summers back and it worked very well. I installed the engine with trans attached. (No matter which engine hoist the OP uses, I don't think it'll have enough reach to lift from the front of the car - C3s have a significant nose to engine-center length.)