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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 01:09 PM
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Default Strut Rods

Hello. I am thinking of replacing the strut rods on my 69. The bushings have seen better days. I would like to replace them with an adjustable set. My driving is just around town type so nothing geared to performance is needed. In looking at the various vendors all the adjustable rods have the polyurethane bushings. The reviews of many of poly parts and bushings is that they may be a bit harsher, (due to less flexibility?) and that there is often squeaks or noise due to them being poly. Is this true, or overblown and is there any way to prevent the possible noise issue. Thanks and take care.
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 01:33 PM
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Has the car lived it's life in a rusty climate? good luck getting the lower shock mounts off to change the strut rods.
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 01:59 PM
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Struts with heim joints are better than the poly ones. The nuts come loose on the poly ones I heard.
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 02:01 PM
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i use poly only energy USA made and so far 5000 miles zero issues. and had it off 3 x for other jobs to inspect..
i would next time though get the adjustable because i ALWAYS struggle getting the damn strut back on...!!!!
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bruiser
Struts with heim joints are better than the poly ones. The nuts come loose on the poly ones I heard.

That would seem VERY unlikely if installed correctly.


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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 02:19 PM
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I went with the Smart Struts with Heim ends on my1980 from Van Steel , less camber change throughout the suspension travel
Vansteel

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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 02:29 PM
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The adjustable also allow you to easily modify rear camber and will hold the setting, stock style have a cam that tends to loose adjustment over time.
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by fstntq
That would seem VERY unlikely if installed correctly.

That is not an adjustable one
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by bruiser
That is not an adjustable one



OK, this one is! My point is more that they BOTH use a cotter pin locked castle nut which negates the nuts loosening. Also the rod is captured in the yoke with the shock mount.
The shock mount is also knurled to bite into the yoke so it also does not move thereby also keeping the strut rod in pace even of the cotter pin and castle nut backed fully off.

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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by fstntq



OK, this one is! My point is more that they BOTH use a cotter pin locked castle nut which negates the nuts loosening. Also the rod is captured in the yoke with the shock mount.
The shock mount is also knurled to bite into the yoke so it also does not move thereby also keeping the strut rod in pace even of the cotter pin and castle nut backed fully off.
The nuts on the rod come loose not the shock mount
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 03:16 PM
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I think the OP is referring to the jam nuts on the adjustable ones that can loosen up........they do indeed have to be tight, and should be rechecked after about a week of driving.
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
I think the OP is referring to the jam nuts on the adjustable ones that can loosen up........they do indeed have to be tight, and should be rechecked after about a week of driving.
Just like most any fastener, I'd say.
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bruiser
The nuts on the rod come loose not the shock mount
Well that's metal on metal and has nothing to do with what types of isolators are used in the ends.
​​Heim, rubber or Poly!
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 04:36 PM
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Thanks for the answers and views. I'm not concerned about the nuts backing and being a safety issue, it was the cam bolt and nut on the stock rods and any change in the camber, as seems to happen. That's why I thought about the adjustable ones. My main concern was the negatives , if any from the poly bushings in the adjustable struts.
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 04:44 PM
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Poly seems to be hit or miss nowadays. If I was buying again I'd get heim ends.
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 06:31 PM
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If you use some loctite and make sure to tighten the strut rod adjuster nut to the correct torque it shouldn't loosen up. 70 to 80 ft/lbs. Make sure it's the correct nut. It isn't that hard to redo the bushings on each end of the strut rods.
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 07:42 PM
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Shock mount removal tool
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 11:16 PM
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Stock rods, not bent, with new rubber bushings installed, is what I use. As far as the camber bolts loosening up, mine haven't - since 1978..
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Old Jun 7, 2022 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by mbp
Thanks for the answers and views. I'm not concerned about the nuts backing and being a safety issue, it was the cam bolt and nut on the stock rods and any change in the camber, as seems to happen. That's why I thought about the adjustable ones. My main concern was the negatives , if any from the poly bushings in the adjustable struts.
Granted as I await an alignment I have zero miles on my adjustable strut rods, BUT, given the force with which I had to rotate the turnbuckles, with the leverage available with a wrench, and the stresses placed on each of the adjustable ends under normal I have a hard time imagining them loosening at all even if the jamb nuts were finger tight. Basically your trying to make sure the changing "tension"s of the rod's up and down and in and out motion doesn't covert to "torque" needed to rotate the turnbuckle. Not sure the scenario under which that is possible. Even with finger tight jam nuts, I'd think a visual inspection every so often would allay most concerns.
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Old Jun 7, 2022 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by bruiser
Struts with heim joints are better than the poly ones. The nuts come loose on the poly ones I heard.
Not a true statement! More Fake News. Just think about it, it would be the threaded pieces and the jam nut getting loose not the actual end. I've had Smart Struts since the 1980's with multi new poly ends.
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