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I like the Switchback LED idea.
I see some LED bulbs flash Amber/White Amber/White, the Amazon link below states these LED 1157 bulbs flash Amber/OFF Amber/OFF.
A LED flasher relay will also need to be installed or you will get "Hyper Flash"
AMAZON LINK:
You can see, the yellow marking lights works ok when blinking. They blink, go out and blink
The front daytime running lights blink, dim, and blink. My MOT guy demands they go fully
out when blinking. Apparently, it's the law here en Denmark. I told him, that's
how they work fom the factory. But he doesn't care.
A guy told me to get a new flasher relay. Is this the correct way? Which flasher relay should i get?
i suppose it's not a standard one since it has to change the amp's i guess? i would like it to blink a bit slower as well.
Or should i rewire the wiring, so the orange marking lights connects to the Daytime
running lights? won't that make the lighting very dim?
This weekend i redid the whole lighting harness and the fuse box received an overhaul. it looked nasty, so everything is in great condition at the wire harness.
OK, nobody has made the extremely obvious joke here, so I guess I'll have to do it.
Your blinkers are acting weird because they are low on blinker fluid. You can purchase a small bottle of blinker fluid at most any auto parts store. After you top off the blinker fluid level, your blinkers should act normally.
I like the Switchback LED idea.
I see some LED bulbs flash Amber/White Amber/White, the Amazon link below states these LED 1157 bulbs flash Amber/OFF Amber/OFF.
A LED flasher relay will also need to be installed or you will get "Hyper Flash"
AMAZON LINK: https://www.amazon.com/Grandview-BAY.../dp/B01D2WKM1O
Standard 1157 Bulb Specs with 15d Base
Flash Element 26.88 watts or 32 Candle Power
DLR/Park Element 8.26 watts or 3 Candle Power
Thanks! Those specs look similar to the bulbs I am using. The key, as you pointed out, is the amber flash overrides the white. That, plus a diode fed always-on tap for the white part of the circuit, and a 3-wire LED flasher (2, one for turn signals, one for hazards), and you should be set, if you keep incandescent marker lights. I'm not sure if the marker lights will ever go out 100% in that configuration with your headlights on. You can do it with LEDs and Blinker Genies, though (it's all in my thread).
White DRL on the port side (shining through a tinted lens, so it still looks bright yellow, you won't have this problem), and the "on" part of the turn signal on the starboard side.
I have a couple of the LED lamps I posted coming from Amazon in the next few days or so.
I also ordered a couple 50W 6ohm Load Resistors I will use on a pair of GM #8903202 3 wire sockets I have just for testing.
I will wire the resistors between the Turn and Ground circuits like this to each socket.
This should take care of the "Hyper Flash" and the need for a LED flasher relay.
Yes. I made it today. Cut the brown wire, and wired it to the new 5watt drl housing, and made a new ground. Did it on both sides, and it is like it should be now. I am just waiting for the orange bulbs to arrive now. The 5 watt is on at all times when the switch is on. And the blinkers blink and does not just dim when blinking.
My Lost Amazon order arrived today.
Using my original turn signal extension harnesses I installed the Switchback LED bulbs.
Park and Turn worked perfect without the need for the 50 WATT 6ohm Load Resistors.
Original Flasher Relay still installed.
I then tried the Hazards, well right side flashed but left side just one or two of the amber LEDS lite up and didn't flash.
So I installed the Load Resistors on the 2nd set of turn harness extensions and no problems at all.
These White park or DRL are really bright.
Little heat as the LED bulb frame is aluminum not plastic like some.
$10.00ea new bulb sockets.
$7.00 for the pair of load resistors.
$14.00 for the LED bulbs.
No cutting or splicing wires as I used the correct PACK-CON 1 Terminals.
