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Yep being able to tilt it was a plus. Keeping the chains short kept me under the ceiling. Then the 2 ton lift would only go so high so I had to remove the tire and drop the fender a few. Pulling the rad support opened up a lot of room. I did a lot of measuring ahead of time. A taller ceiling obviously gives you more options. But lift height is still a limitation.
The convertor bolts are accessed with the bell housing still bolted on. Remove the starter and that little half moon sheet metal plate on the front lower part of the bellhousing. Then you can easily get to the convertor bolts one at a time. You will need to rotate the engine several times. Once they are all out then you can unbolt the bellhousing and separate the two big parts. Keep the convertor on the trans. You may have to nudge it back on. You do not want to hurt the seal.
I also suggest removing the driveshaft, and buying a set of those plastic trans plugs (Lisle etc) to save on leaks all over the floor.
I hope I am just stating the obvious, but once you remove the crossmember, you will need to support the rear of the engine from that point on. If the car is high enough to get the tranny out from underneath, you will need to support the back of the motor while you lower it to the ground. That sounds like a tricky maneuver, maybe forcing you to sling it from something across the fenders.
Seems like it might be easier if you are going to pull them seperately to lower the car, grab the motor, then drop the tranny and lift the car to give you room to pull the tranny out from under.
Yep being able to tilt it was a plus. Keeping the chains short kept me under the ceiling. Then the 2 ton lift would only go so high so I had to remove the tire and drop the fender a few. Pulling the rad support opened up a lot of room. I did a lot of measuring ahead of time. A taller ceiling obviously gives you more options. But lift height is still a limitation.
The convertor bolts are accessed with the bell housing still bolted on. Remove the starter and that little half moon sheet metal plate on the front lower part of the bellhousing. Then you can easily get to the convertor bolts one at a time. You will need to rotate the engine several times. Once they are all out then you can unbolt the bellhousing and separate the two big parts. Keep the convertor on the trans. You may have to nudge it back on. You do not want to hurt the seal.
I also suggest removing the driveshaft, and buying a set of those plastic trans plugs (Lisle etc) to save on leaks all over the floor.
Did you have the hoist arm in the 1/2, 1, or 2 ton setting?
Thanks for the tips.
I already have the starter and the inspection cover removed.
I’ll look for the trans plugs and get a set.
Yesterday I was able to get to and remove the u joint straps and the drive shaft.
It took awhile but it’s now out.
Thanks again!
I unbolt the starter from the block and strap it as far away as I can. Saving time dorking with the wiring R&R
Never pull out the tranny output shaft unless you have to. If you do you probably want to replace the seal
With the tranny out if it's got lots of miles. Pull the pan and look at the debris. Some silt, some black fines are okay. Aluminum flakes or worse yet steel chunks or flakes are total rebuild time
And I still got nervous with the 680# hanging over the fiberglass.
You need not be nervous, you've got a decent setup there: Four points connecting to the motor, bolts in shear (mostly) instead of tension, looks like a quality leveler.
Only improvement I MIGHT do, is instead of bolting thru the chains to the motor, have 1/4" thick metal tabs to bolt tight to the motor, then the tabs would have a slight bend outward so that you can connect a removable chain link at your link of choice on the leveler chain.
Then you could swing that thing around like a lasso (if you were strong enough!)
With the tranny out if it's got lots of miles. Pull the pan and look at the debris. Some silt, some black fines are okay. Aluminum flakes or worse yet steel chunks or flakes are total rebuild time
I have a TKO 600 replacing the TH400, so this trans will be sold.
My tko has been wonderful. Second to third just use the palm of your hand and just push it straight forward
Could you please send me a picture of your Z bar. I modded my for shorter pedal assembly throw. I use a manual clutch and it's easy
That’s good to know.
The box containing the z bar is up on my shelf somewhere.
When I get to the point of needing it, I’ll take a couple of pictures and send them to you.
I could literally spend a whole day trying to locate that box at this point.
Gkull: I have one nearby on the garage floor. I'll be glad to send you a pic sat.
Oldcarbum: A BBC weighs around 680 or so, so I use the 11/2 ton (1000lb) setting. I needed all the reach it could give me to get over that big side f/g fender.
Gkull: I have one nearby on the garage floor. I'll be glad to send you a pic sat.
Oldcarbum: A BBC weighs around 680 or so, so I use the 11/2 ton (1000lb) setting. I needed all the reach it could give me to get over that big side f/g fender.
My Z Bar was from Kiesler kit and nice. I drilled a lower hole for out of the fire wall rod and anothor hole to move the throw out bearing faster
Yes, for about 17 years and 8 different motors with two different rear end ratios
Next week is Hot August nights car show week if you are coming over. I spent most of yesterday polishing and detailing my vette. I have to throw on my slicks today. I was just over your way at the NHRA drags last week end
In my last powertrain swap from auto to manual, I pulled the engine first, then dropped the automatic transmission out the bottom after the engine was out. It worked out great. You want to drain the fluids and use a spare yoke to plug the output of the tranny if you have one. Make sure to secure the torque converter to the transmission or it will slide off very easily and make a big mess all over the floor.
When it was time to put the new powertrain back into the car, the manual transmission and clutch were all assembled together before I installed them as an assembly. I would do it again the next time.
383 and TKX ready to go. Short chains, a leveler, pull one wheel off, have rear of car elevated helps too.
This isn't a good picture, but I had just aligned the bell housing and getting ready to lift over the side and swing in. It is so much easier for two guy and a floor jack to stab the tranny in with the motor still held by the lift and tilled down on the bell housing.I can't find my pictures of doing a customers 454 I think 1972
See I'm just up on wood blocks also under the frame rales about 18 inches off the ground so it makes for easier work underneath.
gkull,
Thanks for the pictures and tips.
Today I’m heading to HF to pick up a transmission jack and a load leveler.
This should work.
I already have the same HF hoist as you.
I’m thinking about using a heavy chain, wrapping it around the frame rails and pulling it tight under the pan, to support the rear of the engine, until I can pull the engine.
Should work, but I need to look at it a little closer.
I may drive up to Reno for the day to check out Hot August Nights this year.
Its been several years since I’ve been but we are leaving for a trip to So Cal for our grandsons 1st birthday in a couple weeks so I may need to put off Reno until next year.
I’ll let you know if we do drive up so we could meet.
Thanks again!
Greg
That looks like an awesome tool and I appreciate the offer, but I am leery of lifting a big block using the intake’s carburetor plate, especially with an aluminum intake manifold.
You know Murphy’s Law, the bolt threads would fail, just as I was over the fender.
I get nervous enough using the accessory bolt holes in the heads.
Yikes!
