When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Took a drive with a friend today and noticed the side mirror was loose, have to check that when we get back. Gave it a blast through the gears which probably loosened it more
So we get back and of course I forget, I give my buddy the wheel and we head up the road nice and easy . He makes a turn and I saw it fly off out of the corner of my eye… Smash ! yup it hit the pavement.
Lucky thing is it totally missed the paint on its way down and the damage to the mirror body is so minimal you have to look hard to see it.
The two screws pulled out of the door.
I’ve got new mirror glass ordered for $15 so that’s covered. My option for repair is to either fill the holes with epoxy (marine Tex or JBweld) and redrill or use threaded bolts with washers and nylon locknuts inside the door. Those certainly wouldn’t pull free but I’d have to have access from the inside (???)
How much hassle is it to remove the inner door panel on a ‘68 and if I go that route would I have access to get my hand up in there to hold a nut ?
May have to fill and re-drill Screws pulled out, hit the pavement where the mirror shattered but where it the other damage you’d expect? No damage to see easily, amazing.
You want to look at rivenuts. Harbor Freight sells the riveter, but you will have to order the nuts from someone online. They are similar to well nuts, but are held tight with compression from the riveter.
Ok thanks, good info that gave me an idea of how to proceed.
Going to do all the work from outside the door. Wasn’t aware there was a “tapping plate” inside the door. My mirror was held on by 2 different sized sheet metal screws not the threaded bolts. Not surprised that it failed.
I stuck a magnet to the door to verify the plate was still there then scratched in the holes with a dental pic to see metal and what threads are left.
The front holes threads still held a bolt with good purchase, the rear though is wallowed out. I ran a bolt into the front with a nut and washer snugging it down to prevent the plate from shifting while I ran a tap gently thru the other hole. A 1/4-20 tap worked perfectly giving nice sharp clean threads.
Now I have to go out again for the proper length and flat head stainless bolts to secure it again. I’ll use permatex thread lock when I do.
You want to look at rivenuts. Harbor Freight sells the riveter, but you will have to order the nuts from someone online. They are similar to well nuts, but are held tight with compression from the riveter.
I’ve used those pop rivet thread insets on other projects with mixed results.
Vibration tends to loosen them up and if it’s one car isn’t short on it’s vibration
Car shakes like a Harley at stop lights.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Mishap today, door panel hard to remove?
