Hi there,
I am hoping some of you knowledgeable folks can take a look at my video and let me know if there seems to be excess slop in the steering linkages.
I'm thinking idle arm or pitman?
I not sure if this is normal. Seems like each one is just moving on the ball joint within each rod end.
I recently replaced outter tie rod, ball joints, control arm bushings, as well as many suspension components. Seems like it may have gotten worse after though.
Much more caster is in the car now. Maybe that's putting more stress on the older components?

 

M

 

A lot of stuff moving there that shouldn't. I'd look at the movement on the idler arm to start with, that is just looking at the bolt to the relay rod there. If there's slop there, that will allow the others to move some.
Double check that one first and I'd also look at the holes in the arms and make sure those aren't all distorted and sloppy
M

 

 

I’d start with this or similar. Alot of slop in the inner tierods on the relay link.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...ette/year/1973

Might need both the idler and pittman arm too but this will get alot of it out.

 

Could see the inners moving. Invest in some moogs and replace them all especially if the are all the same age

 

Thanks for all the advice!
I ordered both inner tie rods and an outer for the other side, just in case (1 outer was recently replaced). Also ordered an idler arm, as that seemed to be wiggling most.
Does it make sense to also rebuild the ball stud on the power steering cylinder?
I'm assuming I can't pull it apart, clean it, put it back together with fresh grease and expect it to tighten back up?
Re-stretch the spring within the cylinder ball stud?
The cylinder ball stud doesn't look as tight compared to a tie rod end by design.
I guess the ball could get pitted or something causing it to get loose.

My power steering control valve ball stud seems pretty loose too, but doesn't it tighten back up once the car is on?

 

As @Mooser pointed out, your center link is twisting around its axis. The idler arm is what resists this movement, so start there. The inner tie rod ends may also be worn, but even if they were fresh they wouldn't prevent that twist. No reason not to change them all out, of course.

Yes, the power steering control valve slop should tighten up when the power steering pump is running.

I don't know what rebuilding the power steering cylinder (piston) will do for you. That also does not resist the rotation of the center link.

Be sure to look for cracks in the frame near where the steering box, idler arm, and power steering piston mount to the frame. Unlikely to be your issue, but it has come recently on this Forum.

 

yes that slop is the valve, the more you move that stud, the more it opens the valve

 

So I replaced the idle arm and inner tie rod on one side.
The idle arm doesn't seem to be seating down into the center link all the way. The foam cushion is there, but seems to be stopping because of the taper on the idle arm stud. Tightened to 35 ft lbs.
I checked the threads on the new castle nut and idle arm stud, and they were both fine; the nut threaded all the way down till the threads stopped.
Part number is k6100 by moog.
Summit said this would fit, but is this not the correct part number?
anyone else find this?

 

thats what Moog says on their website for a 72
https://www.moog-suspension-parts.co..._corvette_1972

 

As long as the taper on the idler bolt matches the taper on the center link, all is good. You want to make a metal to metal connection that doesn't twist or bend. The rotation is in inside the greased idler arm end itself. The foam is just to keep grease from flinging everywhere, and to keep dirt out of the joint.

I used the same Moog K6100 idler arm in my 79.

 

Hmm, I'm not sure the taper matches. If it matched, I would think it would seat down farther.
It seems sturdy now, so i guess I'll leave it be for now, and see if it loosens up over time

 

The K6100 is also what my 72 got.
I would imagine that if the system was loose, the hole in the center-link has been wallowed out somewhat. Next time you have it apart, wipe everything clean and apply some marker (Persian blue, dye-chem, sharpy, whatever) to the pin and hole and push it together hand tight and rotate it then look at the marking and see if they are kind of touching all over the place or only on the center / one end
M

 

Alright, got both inner tie rod ends, driver outer tie rod, and idle arm replaced. (passenger outer tie rod was recently replaced about 200 miles ago)
There was also a slow leak from the oil pan, so I replaced that as well, so all this was somewhat convenient.
I have it at the alignment shop now.
This all started when I noticed the front tires were wearing really badly on the inside. Really Badly! I probably got less than 5k miles out of pair of tires, while the rears look good.
Now the upper and lower ball joints, control arm bushings, tie rod ends and idle arm have all been replaced.
From what I read, the camber would have to be WAY out to cause the tire wear I've been seeing, and is likely too much toe in. OR maybe all these components have been rocking back and forth on the road at speed and causing this?
Either way, 2 new tires and an alignment hopefully will solve the issue.

I was really babying the car on the ride over to the alignment shop, and I honestly couldn't really tell that much of a difference from before. Still seems to be a little slop in the steering.
Maybe it's time I finally tighten the adjustment on the steering box. Pitman arm looks pretty solid to me.

(This video is with me shaking the passenger wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock with the steering column locked. Even with it locked it moves back and forth a little)

 

Many write ups and descriptions about this stuff, but to me it's important to see it in order to understand how much visual movement is expected, or sign of a problem.
i know for all you seasoned guys who've done this a million times this probably seems pretty obvious, but I hope these videos give some idea for other novice wrench turners, like myself.

 

Well that certainly looks WAY better than the first video
Generally accepted specs for the street


Go for as much castor as the stock arms/shaft will allow

With the car on the ground, have someone move the steering wheel back and forth and look at the rag joint to see how much play is there, then look at the pitman arm and see how much is in the box. Be careful about just tightening the box, maybe start a new thread and get some expert input
M

 

this is what the power steering valve will look like without the engine running moving the steering column by hand, you may be seeing this slop

this is normal and may be ehat you are seeing

 

I can't tell you how much I appreciate your video!
that is definitely what I'm seeing, only control valve is covered in way more grease.
I'm going to take a closer inspection of the rag joint and pitman arm next.

 

If you can have someone rock the steering wheel you can see more., Hope its mostly solved with what you already accomplished