When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Lots of shops bent them to try to adjust the camber (whether they didn't know to use the proper off-center disc, or they were rusted solid, or they were lazy is a different story all together...)
Anyway, can't see why you can't straighten them back out as long as they aren't damaged
M
Especially not twice. You bend metal you weaken it. Bend it back, weaken it more. Good time to get upgrades. The adjustable ones maybe add heim joints.
Last edited by derekderek; Aug 17, 2022 at 04:47 PM.
Especially not twice. You bend metal you weaken it. Bend it back, weaken it more. Good time to get upgrades. The adjustable ones maybe add heim joints.
Also, you don’ t know if someone applied a torch to them. Not worth the risk.
The Corvette Connection in Bolton Ct said you can heat them up the original ones! He also said i got taken on the strut rods i bought for 1980-1982 have off setts on the end and are not straight as the 1968-1979.Went to another Corvette shop and he said the struts i bought were fine for 1968-1982 who is correct?
The Corvette Connection in Bolton Ct said you can heat them up the original ones! He also said i got taken on the strut rods i bought for 1980-1982 have off setts on the end and are not straight as the 1968-1979.Went to another Corvette shop and he said the struts i bought were fine for 1968-1982 who is correct?
Not for nothing but you're asking for a visual appraisal without providing a picture.
You could ask Stevie Wonder if he were on the board because he can't see them either!
Differences-
The '80-82 are a different length from '63-79 and have an offset end.
There is a difference in bushing diameters between '63-74 vs '75-79.
68-74 had 1 1/4" OD (outside diameter) bushings
75-79 1 3/8" OD bushings 1975-79. The length was the same
There are eccentric adjusters for alignment, I have read they don't hold alignment very well. I ate Ramen noodles for a month and was able to pry a Franklin and some change out of my wallet for the adjustables, which Chevrolet should have had in the first place.
There are some aluminum strut rods floating around in the 80-82 pool as well, allegedly.
If you plan to actually drive your car, get heim-jointed adjustable strut rods. If you have someone work on your car, the difference in parts cost is blown away by the labor. I'll put a link to what I have in your other thread.
Call me crazy but if I had to bend strut rods and/or buy something other than stock to get alignment numbers in I would look at other areas of the rear end for issues.
Evidently, this bashing of the strut rod was somewhat common at wheel alignment shops in the past.
An alignment tech guy will only spend so many minutes, trying to get that old rusty, corroded cam-bolt loose. Heat, penetrating oil, cussing, etc.
Customer and alignment machine both agree that the top of the rear tire tilts in too far. Can't get the adjustment bolt loose?
Hand me that five pound sledge-hammer. There. Perfect.
I too have adjustable strut rods. Use lots of Loctite Blue on the threads. Maybe even Red would be safer.
I paid $70 from a place with a weird name, Maxpeedingrods.com
They are adjustable but have rubber ends, not poly. Been good for about 1,000 miles so far.
The crossmember bolts they supplied were metric, and had a little more slop than I liked so I got some Imperial size bolts at the hardware store for a couple bucks.
I also had to grind a few thou off the square plates for a nice snug fit in the crossmember brackets.