Brake rotors
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 7,649
Likes: 2,466
From: Indiana
Check to be sure above minimum spec for thickness..i bet they are ok.
also check run out on current rotors and pay attention to orientation.
agree with all above.. otherwise you are chinesium and risk run out issues.
post some pics!
i have even cleaned up some with a sander and brake cleaner..
also check run out on current rotors and pay attention to orientation.
agree with all above.. otherwise you are chinesium and risk run out issues.
post some pics!
i have even cleaned up some with a sander and brake cleaner..
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,154
Likes: 3,959
From: Connecticut, USA
First measure the thickness. New they were 1.250", low limit is 1.215" so there is not a lot of material to remove and not advisable if they are flat. If grooved maybe. Finding a place to turn them and the cost may not justify it. Fronts can be turned on a conventional brake lathe, rears can be too but won't be concentric with the axle centerline and may introduce more runout than you started with and have a thinner rotor. An on the car lathe, used by a competent operator is required and again cost usually rules that out vs buying a new rotor from and NAPA. I have setup 100's of them for street use and they are fine. I look for those without the rivet pattern and transfer the pattern myself.
If they are in spec, flat and just glazed, a 100 grit with a DA will break the glaze and allow you to reuse them. I used to blast, DA and paint the hats for a new looking rotor, it takes too much time and again it is cost effective to just buy one at NAPA, no shipping cost and easy pick up.
If they are in spec, flat and just glazed, a 100 grit with a DA will break the glaze and allow you to reuse them. I used to blast, DA and paint the hats for a new looking rotor, it takes too much time and again it is cost effective to just buy one at NAPA, no shipping cost and easy pick up.
