When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Does anyone else have this problem? How did you fix it?
I've had the instrument console out and cleaned all the bulbs but the dash lighting is still dim.
incandescent Bulbs grow dim with age. I found out the factory lighting bulbs in the speedo and tach are rated at 3.8W. I found suitable replacement bulbs in my local auto parts store rated at 4W. Dimming function works as it should. (Unlike expensive LED'S) Dash is so bright I have to turn it down.
Simple answer.
New bulbs.
Yes, you need to clean the inside of the incandescent bulb to brighten it, which is impossible. However, the claim that LEDs cannot be dimmed is false.
Does anyone else have this problem? How did you fix it?
I've had the instrument console out and cleaned all the bulbs but the dash lighting is still dim.
I replaced my bulbs with leds replacements from ebay back in 2012 and they all still work fine. dash is much brighter and I do have limited brightness control even though they are not dimmable leds per say. If they are too bright it messes up my night vision.
Rerplaced my bulbs with LEDs when I was changing my stereo and also working on the console gauges. Much whiter light and just the right brightness. I intentionally chose non-dimmable, but you can buy dimmable LEDs.
They dim perfectly without any other changes to the bulbs. They are incredibly bright I think Amazon sells these in a 10 pack for $40. They have em in warm white as well as a couple of colors
Yes, you need to clean the inside of the incandescent bulb to brighten it, which is impossible. However, the claim that LEDs cannot be dimmed is false.
$3- each for dimmable, warm LEDs. Just check the descriptions.
Thank you everyone for your input. After reviewing everything and doing research based on all the suggestions here is what I have done. #1 ordered a new headlight switch since it is obvious that at 52 years old mine is done and for under $30 why hassle since dropping the cluster is such a PITA!, Next I took the advice and called SuperbrightLED and went with their brightest bulb the BA95S CWHP5, Now some coaching from the tech regarding the dimming, it will be limited which is fine. Next, the tech was very specific regarding polarity. He said that some cars are wired where it doesn't matter if the button is wired Positive or Negative. In this case the LEDs are Polarity sensitive and the button must be wired Positive and the can wired Negative. I hope this is the case. If not this is an easy fix since the instrument lighting is all wired in series and all that will be needed is to change it at the panel. I am fairly sure the car is wired as needed and I won't need to make a change.
YOu never mentioned of rotating the headlight switch **** dimmed the bulbs or made them brighter
Yep, that was kinda a no brainer issue. I ran into the same problem on my '56 210 back in the day when building it 25 years ago. Similar problem, the dash lights would be either on or off and no variable. On that car since I was changing the gauges to VDOs the light bulbs were a mute point plus the gauges were Black print on a White face making them far easier to read. Additionally it is a Hardtop so no glare issue during the day or dusk to deal with. I know of one owner of a C3 who replaced all his gauges with Autometer gauges Black print on White face however I would like to maintain the stock look so I am staying with the stock gauges.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
There is a small tin strap that grounds the switch to the speedometer and tachometer so you do have multiple spots that you could be losing or just have a very weak ground and its just back feeding through something else.
Im sure you thought of it but when you take off the dash i would verify all the grounds and ground wires
There is a small tin strap that grounds the switch to the speedometer and tachometer so you do have multiple spots that you could be losing or just have a very weak ground and its just back feeding through something else.
Im sure you thought of it but when you take off the dash i would verify all the grounds and ground wires
Yes, when I had the cluster out previously. However I will revisit it when I replace it just to be 100% positive. Thanks