My engine builder moved and left me the partially completed engine. 350 stroked to 383. Roller CAM. CAM installed; rockers and pushrods installed; harmonic balancer installed; timing set and part one of cover installed. I went to install the Cloyes adapter plate with "Quick Button" cam button but the plate does not fit tight. CAM bolts are not the issue. Took out the cam bolts and same issue. Cam has no endplay. The roller bearing is snug to the end of the cam. Plate is out about 1/64. If I tighten the plate screws the plate has a bow. Seems to me the cam should have some endplay. Instructions say to install plate and screw in thrust button until snug against nose of camshaft to set to zero lash. Since the timing cover is aluminum the thermal expansion will result in the required endplay. The instructions presume some camshaft endplay and then to snug the button by screwing it up against the camshaft nose to rmove the endplay. Any thoughts and help is appreciated.

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Assuming you've confirmed the cam is installed properly - cam to lifter relationship looks good and no other signs that the cam needs to come out and go back in. Also, assume you've confirmed that there are no spacers or bushings in the end of the camshaft. Cloyes uses a spacer for BB Chevy applications with some of their buttons so the roller button reaches in far enough. The spacer should not be in your kit and it seems obvious but it's worth peaking in there. If everything else is good you can machine down the cam side of button by .030 and make space for the cover to bolt down all the way and give you a small turn on the adjuster to zero the lash and put in the cap screw.

 

Thanks for the quick response. I trust the builder but can only assume the cam went in correctly. The engine came back to me with rockers installed but lash not set. I set the lash. Should I have not done that until after I put in the cam button? I can spin the engine with a ratchet without issues and no binding or noises. Should I ditch the quick button, remove it from the plate and use a nylon button?

 

If you set the valve lash/preload without the timing cover and cam button installed, I find it possible the cam is just not all the way in the block anymore (but it appears it is), and the lifters are putting some load onto the camshaft that makes it difficult to move in and out. Remember, there is a lot of tension in those valve springs
If it were me, and I put one of these Cloyes covers onto my 350, I would loosen the rockers and maybe even take the pushrods and lifters out before setting the cam button lash. Unless you already put the intake on, you're only out your own time, not even a gasket.
Not saying this definitely happened, but it's something easy to check.
(Best way to set lifter preload is to have it all assembled and set it with the engine running, anyway; at least in my opinion)

Another thing to check is the camshaft gear. Some of the gears have been machined for a thrust washer or torrington bearing, but other more budget friendly ones just ride on the block. If a bearing/washer was installed with a gear that wasn't machined for this, that could be taking up the space you need. If this were the case, I would think the timing chain would appear slightly strained and not completely aligned with the crank gear, as well. Maybe check this first, although this will necessitate taking the entire cover off, and install another gasket.

 

Personally, I would pull the rockers, pushrods and lifters and go back to a state or condition where I can confirm the cam has endplay and there are no issues with bearing clearances or installation. Then I would set up the timing cover and cam button. Then put the valvetrain back together. You could very well get the same result when it is all apart but you will eliminate several assumptions. It's your engine and you want it to be reliable and you deserve to have confidence in it. That comes from knowing the facts. In this case a relatively small investment of time compared to how long you expect to have it on the road. You estimated 1/64" gap when brining the cover down. Not many people estimate like that so you sound comfortable with a wrench and details.

You can use a nylon button but you have a better system so I would try to champion that if I could. Grinding down or machining down the inside of the Quick Button is not a big deal. If you can hold it steady you could take it down on a belt sander upside down on your bench.

 

I loosened the rockers and took out the pushrods which loosened the cam and allowed the endplay. Installed the cam button and plate and it fit perfectedly and set to zero cam lash as directed by instructions. Thanks for helping think this through.

 

Well done, Sir. Forum says you are in Bell Meade, maybe that's where your internet is connecting. IDK. I'm in Bernards Township putting together a '76 L-82 with a 383 from the original four bolt block. My brother is in Hunterdon County working on a '72 LT-1. Not sure how to connect through the Forum but should you need another pair of hands or a phone number to reach out to LMK.

 

Thanks very much. I'm in Montgomery Township but grew up in Basking Ridge. I've got a 1976 and am almost finished swapping out the interior. Taking the dash apart and getting it back was a pain. Firgured out why these clocks stop working and they are pretty easy to fix. Mechanicals all original. I have a 1972 convertible body off in my garage. Had the engine rebuilt to standard specs and swapped in a Muncie for the TH-400. I have Fiero seats done with Mr. Mikes covers and ready to install. Going to add vintage air. Put in electric headlights. Stripped the body and will paint in a homemade booth (Ontario Orange).

Picked up a 1973 fully loaded t-top to be a donor that was in pieces but decided it was too nice to part out. Doing a body off on that one as well. Doing a 383 stroker with hydraulic roller. Taking the Th-400 which was rebuilt and will put it in the 73. Front clip is off, took off the firewall and I fixed the bird cage rust and redid the firewall. In reassembly mode. Touching every nut and bolt on the 72 and 73. Lots of hours but really enjoy it and learn a heck of alot as I go.

My brother is in Flemington and he has a fully functioning 78 which needs nothing...he's the smart one. If I need some help I'll PM you. Thanks again. I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way.

 

Well done, gentlemen.
To me, this is what car culture is (or should be) about. Sharing knowledge and helping out, long distance and close by. How friendships are forged.

 

PM sent.
Also nearby in NJ.