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Starter grinding.

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Old Oct 2, 2022 | 03:00 PM
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Default Starter grinding.

1972 with a ZZ 502, 4 speed. Starter is grinding. About a month ago maybe longer one starter bolt became loose and the starter was grinding. I started it a few times to back the car in and out of the garage. Then the car wouldn't start. The loose bolt had broken and fallen out. Retrieved the broken part from the engine and put the same exact starter bolt into it. Tightened it up and it worked fine. About 2 weeks ago it started to make the same grinding noise. Jacked the car up to check the bolts and they were tight. It only does it every once in awhile. Maybe once in every 10 starts. Pulled the starter and pulled the inspection cover to check the fly wheel. Rotated it and all looks good, all the teeth looked fine. Also didn't find any metal shavings in the bell housing, from flywheel teeth. The starter is the one that came with the engine. It's the GM performance mini starter. Looks like a normal starter but smaller. What could be causing this. I know it has something to do with the starter but what?


Just checked flywheel again and nothing looks chewed up.
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Old Oct 3, 2022 | 02:14 AM
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No answers?
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Old Oct 3, 2022 | 09:13 AM
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If the ring gear looks good I would just replace the starter AND the bolts. Those starters are not rebuilt so you get a 100% new. Like about $100 or so.

Do you use 2 long bolts or 1 long and 1 short?
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Old Oct 3, 2022 | 09:19 AM
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Most older engines tend to stop at the same place all the time. In order to decide if it is the ring gear or the Starter, shut you car off while still in Drive, for a manual Trans, let the clutch out while the engine is stopping. If the problem goes away, it is the ring gear, because you now are stopping the motor at a different place than before where the Ring gear is still good.
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Old Oct 3, 2022 | 10:33 AM
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Is the starter shimmed? If not, have you checked lash?
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Old Oct 3, 2022 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by stingr69
If the ring gear looks good I would just replace the starter AND the bolts. Those starters are not rebuilt so you get a 100% new. Like about $100 or so.

Do you use 2 long bolts or 1 long and 1 short?

2Long bolts.
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Old Oct 3, 2022 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by gbaumann
Is the starter shimmed? If not, have you checked lash?
When I got the crate engine it came with the starter on it.no shims. It never needed shims before why would it need them now.
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Old Oct 3, 2022 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 540 vette
When I got the crate engine it came with the starter on it.no shims. It never needed shims before why would it need them now.
because something is starting to wear, starter bushing would be a guess.
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Old Oct 3, 2022 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 540 vette
When I got the crate engine it came with the starter on it.no shims. It never needed shims before why would it need them now.
It may have needed them and the lack of correct setting generated a problem. The process of correction begins with eliminating variables. Ring gear to starter engagement has a spec. If it's too tight it puts unwanted load on gears - too loose and it starves mechanical advantage for the starter. Both of those conditions are undesirable and could (not guaranteed) produce issues over time. My approach would be to set it up to spec and see if the problem persists. If so, replace the starter.
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Old Oct 3, 2022 | 11:15 AM
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I have plenty of the special long bolts here. You can have for free plus the postage if you do not get them with the new starter. Just let me know if you need them, or a Rock Auto part number.
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Old Oct 3, 2022 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by stingr69
I have plenty of the special long bolts here. You can have for free plus the postage if you do not get them with the new starter. Just let me know if you need them, or a Rock Auto part number.

Thank you. I am going to buy the same type starter and I already have new ones for it.
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