(‘68 convertible hard and soft tops)

I’m in the middle of the manifold reconditioning project but am always thinking on what’s to come.
My door windows are stiff to crank and don’t align with the top when going up.
I don’t dare open or close the door with the window totally up for fear of shattering it.
I know I won’t know what I’ll need to make it right till I get the door cards off but still I’m trying to figure what the likely parts I’ll end up needing to make this right.
I made a video but it won’t load so I’ll just say if I hold the door glass with both hands I can rock it back and forth lifting and lowering the top corners as much as an inch.
…and this is for the “totally restored” car I bought last February

 

It could be just some simple adjustments are needed inside the doors.
The AIM has a complete guide on how to adjust the windows, so I would try that first.
There are numerous rollers, channels and other parts involved and if they are misaligned it could be causing your problems.

 

 

Yes that gives me something to print out and plan ahead with. Thanks !

 

It just takes a lot of patients, You might want to circle the bolt heads with a marker so you have a starting point when it's time to reassemble.

 

Cleaning all the rollers and associated parts with mineral spirits to remove the 45 year old grease should be a starting point. Once everything was cleaned, I used Super Lube (that is a little expensive and comes in a tube), but there are other grease products some guys use. Once everything is clean, then you can see if any rollers or parts are worn or damaged. Also you should do the same cleaning process on the door lock mechanism, it’s got old grease on it to. My advice is to go slow, you don’t want to do everything twice.

 

I have 2 grease type products that are my go-to choices, NAPA Sil-glide silicone grease and Mercury Marine 3-in-1 grease which resists break down and water absorption. The glass on the passenger side is really loose and I’m expecting the worst there. I have to pick up a crank handle tool… unless I already have one from an earlier project (??). Got to go check my barn/shop

 

While you are in the door, take a look at the door open mechanism, locks, and hinges. Like they said,,,, get lots of degreaser spray the heck out of all the parts. Once the panel is off it isn't that bad to remove the door and refresh the hinge and the spring. The door comes off with the 4 bolts on the door. I spray painted a witness mark over the bolts so you know how to reinstall the door. NAPA has the brass hinge bushings. Do your research on how to install them, they are very easy to crush. The big ladder with straps worked very well to keep the door stable.

 

Oh no, not removing the doors.
The reveal on them is as perfect as it gets so I’m not opening that can of worms. From day one when this came home I made a list of things to be done and a complete regrease of the window mechanisms and locks was on it.
I am thinking some of these 55 year old parts (built in November of ‘67) are going to be worn beyond repair. I’m just glad that repos are available for them.
The ladder lift is a neat idea. I have either an engine hoist or a sliding electric crane I installed in the rafters of my barn shop to manage the heavy stuff.

 

It is a bit scary, but if you mark the hinge bolts it isn't that hard to get it back correct. I have done mine twice. If your hinges are good, no need. If your door sags or the springs don't hold the door open, it will only get worse.

 

yup, not chancing it if I don’t have to.

 

I have found that the "old" grease on both my 1968 C3 and my 1988 C4 Corvettes has caused things to get stiffer and harder to move over the years. One day I decided to try and clean the old grease out of the (Oct, 1967) C3 window tracks and door lock connections and for me I learned that using a Hot Air gun was a really helpful tool. On the 1968 the grease was probably original but after being heated up it came off the parts very easily. Heat seemed to make the grease more pliable again and allowed it to be removed without much clean-up. After all the remaining grease was removed I used some Eastwood "PRE" Cleaner to wipe everything down and then let it dry completely.

On both Corvettes I was able to get the window tracks cleaned, adjusted and the grease replaced without removing doors. The windows on both C3 and C4 are power and the motors had to be cleaned of any grease as it helped make the action slower. After I cleaned the power window motors and re-greased them as well as the window tracks and now the windows all go up and down very easily and smoothly. The C4's power door locks open and close very easily where as they had become glued to the point where the solenoid was almost not able to move the lock mechanisms. It was harder to access the C4 window tracks than it was on the C3 with power windows.

Thank goodness for the newer greases that function better in cooler weather and should last at least as long as the original. The stuff they used on the C4's seems more like a cement than grease and it really hampered the action of the power door locks. Why they used a harder grease on the later Corvettes doesn't make a lot of sense. It required more heat to clean it as effectively on the C4.